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Hop Stopper 2.0
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Ozarks Mountain Brew



Joined: 22 May 2013
Posts: 735
Location: The Ozark Mountains of Missouri


PostLink    Posted: Mon Jul 23, 2018 9:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


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heres a better picture, trub and hops still get through



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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9886
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Mon Jul 23, 2018 9:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ozarks Mountain Brew wrote:
I've had one before and it kept getting clogged, I guess the issue is I whirlpool for 30 minutes, can't do that with a hop screen

You can with the new Hop Stopper 2.0. See: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/hop-stopper

Only been out a couple of months so it's not what you've used in the past (not sure what you were using). The Hop Stopper 2 is completely different and allows for recirculation. The old one did not allow that.

Now that said, you don't need to whirlpool when using the Hop Stopper. That's one of the benefits. The main reason to whirlpool for 20-30 is to create a cone of debris (hops/trub) in the middle so that you can then empty the kettle from the edge where there's no gunk. It takes 20-30 mins for the hops and gunk to settle in a cone. With the Hop Stopper there's no need to whirlpool so you'll save 30 mins. You start chilling immediately. You can still steep hops of course if you want. There's just no need to whirlpool before emptying. Just steep if you like (or not) and start emptying right away.

I like to be able to chill really fast (12 gallons to pitch temp in under 15 minutes) as it really helps lock in those late hop addition flavours. Nice and bright when I want it that way.

If you recirculate for other reasons (like to sanitize your chiller) you can do that with the Hop Stopper 2.0. You can do that during the actual boil too. You couldn't recirculate with the old version.

Kal

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Ozarks Mountain Brew



Joined: 22 May 2013
Posts: 735
Location: The Ozark Mountains of Missouri


PostLink    Posted: Mon Jul 23, 2018 9:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

oh I built my own but I see your point, yes my whirlpool is for coning up hops but also for late hop extraction but you could even use a hop back or hop randall between your pot and fermenter for maximum hop flavor and not whirlpool
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jengum



Joined: 07 Nov 2012
Posts: 43
Location: Portland, OR USA


PostLink    Posted: Wed Jul 25, 2018 4:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kal, good to read about all the positive experiences with the new filter. Congratulations on what appears to be a successful new product.

I have center/bottom outlets to my kettles and would rather not add side bulkheads like most boil kettles have. Any ideas for a way to adapt one of the 2.0XL filters for this use case? Plugging the dip-tube port seems easy. I wondered about adding a silicon gasket to the bottom outside edge of the filter. The main problem to solve seems to be how to mitigate against hop debris flowing under the filter around the bottom edge.

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Belgian styles, brett, lacto, fruited
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9886
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Wed Jul 25, 2018 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jengum wrote:
Kal, good to read about all the positive experiences with the new filter. Congratulations on what appears to be a successful new product.

I have center/bottom outlets to my kettles and would rather not add side bulkheads like most boil kettles have. Any ideas for a way to adapt one of the 2.0XL filters for this use case? Plugging the dip-tube port seems easy. I wondered about adding a silicon gasket to the bottom outside edge of the filter. The main problem to solve seems to be how to mitigate against hop debris flowing under the filter around the bottom edge.

The manufacturer may be able to make you a custom version. I'd email them at IHomeBrewSolutions@TheElectricBrewery.com with as much details as possible (pictures/dimensions/etc).

Cheers!

Kal

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windquest



Joined: 13 May 2018
Posts: 17
Location: Apache Jct, AZ


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jul 27, 2018 1:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since I am about to punch the hole for the heating element in my boil kettle, this thread seems to say that the element could be lower if the Hop Stopper 2.0 is only two inches tall. In the build thread, Kal put the element at 4 inches but I wonder if 2.5 or 3 inches would be acceptable. I am trying to get it as low as possible....can anyone confirm the lowest possible measurement from the bottom of the kettle to the center of the element hole?

Thanks in advance.....I am about to get one on order.

Henry
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9886
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jul 27, 2018 1:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

windquest wrote:
I am trying to get it as low as possible....can anyone confirm the lowest possible measurement from the bottom of the kettle to the center of the element hole?.

The Hop Stopper 2.0 may only be 2 high but depending on what else you have in the kettle and kettle diameter, in some cases with very small kettles you may not be able to orient the Hop Stopper into place if the element is too low even if more than 2 off the bottom. So theres no one answer to your question Im afraid. If your kettle is a 20 gallon, you do have some room to go lower in most cases, but I'd probably still install the heating element a bit higher than 2". Keep in mind the size of the element box on the outside of the kettle too. You can't go too low. More info in my instructions here: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/heating-elements?page=6

Kal

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windquest



Joined: 13 May 2018
Posts: 17
Location: Apache Jct, AZ


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jul 27, 2018 2:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Kal.....yes its a 20 gallon kettle. I have a little more room as the element is in a brewPI fitting, but it sounds like something closer to 3 inches would give me a little wiggle room, and 3 inches will be fine for brewing 5 gallon batches in the 20.

Getting closer, but with 115 degree temps, it's hard to brew outside....but it gives me time to get things right while I wait on cooler temps. Of course the beer won't mind, it's the brewer that can't take it. LOL

Henry
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9886
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jul 27, 2018 2:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good luck! For what its worth I can brew 5 gallons in my 20 gallon kettles with the element at 4. So 3 would definitely work on just about any 20 gal kettle.

115F? Time to move that brewery indoors! Wink

Kal

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matt_m



Joined: 28 Jul 2018
Posts: 1



PostLink    Posted: Sat Jul 28, 2018 11:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Curious about using this in a 10 gallon BIAB setup. Is it strong enough to stand up to the weight of a bag full of grain?
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ihomebrewsolutions



Joined: 09 Apr 2015
Posts: 14
Location: Knoxville, TN


PostLink    Posted: Sun Jul 29, 2018 6:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dennis Collins here from Innovative Homebrew Solutions, manufacturer of the Hop Stopper. I think it would be a good idea to support the bag from the top. Perhaps a stick across the top of the kettle and a string tied to the top of the bag? Just enough support so that the screen doesn't have to support the entire grain bill. The Hop Stopper was really designed as a kettle screen - I realize that BIAB is a hybrid process, but giving the screen some relief from the weight of the grain bill would be a good idea.
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codex



Joined: 04 Nov 2016
Posts: 45
Location: Co Durham, UK


PostLink    Posted: Sun Jul 29, 2018 9:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have just completed my first brew (Blonde Ale) on the Electric Brewery (Kal Clone)

One of the issues I had on the day was having to leave around a gallon of wort in the kettle, as I lost flow to the chiller. Tried to restore flow to no avail. I was unaware of this issue until I read the 'achilles heel' thread on this forum, so at least I know what I should be doing next time.

Really interested in version 2.0, although only used version 1.0 for one brew Mad will pay for itself eventually I can save a gallon of wort every brew Very Happy

Will have to get saving..

Thx
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itsnotrequired



Joined: 15 Sep 2015
Posts: 166
Location: central wi


PostLink    Posted: Mon Jul 30, 2018 2:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

codex wrote:
I have just completed my first brew (Blonde Ale) on the Electric Brewery (Kal Clone)

One of the issues I had on the day was having to leave around a gallon of wort in the kettle, as I lost flow to the chiller. Tried to restore flow to no avail. I was unaware of this issue until I read the 'achilles heel' thread on this forum, so at least I know what I should be doing next time.

Really interested in version 2.0, although only used version 1.0 for one brew Mad will pay for itself eventually I can save a gallon of wort every brew Very Happy

Will have to get saving..

Thx


i used the 1.0 version for about 30 brews and i have to admit, it could be frustrating at times. the 2.0 version is almost a night and day difference, such a better design. i recently started using a conical for fermentation and bumped up my recipes by a half gallon or so to compensate for the 'lost volume' between the racking port and the conical bottom but with the 2.0 hopstopper, i had to dial everything back to the original volumes since i am getting more wort out of the bk now compared to the 1.0.
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Big Stogie



Joined: 13 Mar 2018
Posts: 4



PostLink    Posted: Wed Aug 15, 2018 1:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anyone using this in a keggle? have any pictures? i was thinking of maybe a bottom drain if i could make this work.
thanks!
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9886
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Wed Aug 15, 2018 3:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Big Stogie wrote:
Anyone using this in a keggle? have any pictures? i was thinking of maybe a bottom drain if i could make this work.
thanks!

We've sold many of the keggle (converted keg) versions of the Hop Stopper 2.0 with great results. The keggle version is specifically made for use in a converted keg. I don't believe see any pictures that customers have posted yet of keggle setups but maybe someone can chime in...

We've done a few custom bottom drain ones as well - email us at iHomeBrewSolutions@TheElectricBrewery.com with complete details on your setup (including what you have in terms of pickup tube or valve) and we can assist. Cheers!

Kal

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Master



Joined: 30 Jan 2016
Posts: 152
Location: Virginia Beach, VA

Drinking: Liquid Schwartz Schwarzbier, Stinky Porter, Spiced Apple Cider

Working on: AbbyNormal Glutton Free Framboise Lambic, Ich Bin Ein Berliner Weisse, Pineapple Cider


PostLink    Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2018 4:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've contemplated going bottom drain for another keggle if I buy a new keg, and convert the current boiler to a MLT.

Currently using whirlpool with a side drain and whirlpooling for trub/break.

Downside, I think the element screws with the cone effect.

Boiler Mk3 will be a bottom drain with Hop Stopper I think. With the element on a TC fitting so it can be pulled out for easier screen removal.
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Big Stogie



Joined: 13 Mar 2018
Posts: 4



PostLink    Posted: Thu Aug 16, 2018 2:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thats what im thinking Master. The still dragon element holder makes it easy to remove with a sanitary clamp
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AwakenedBrewer



Joined: 04 Aug 2017
Posts: 21
Location: Norfolk, NE


PostLink    Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2018 8:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just received the HopStopper 2.0 XL and it looks like a perfect fit for my system! It's not a clone of Kal's but extremely close (maybe inspired by?).

Spike Brewing kettles. My BK is 20 gallons with two 5500w elements. Had to remove the lower element to make room but that's fine because I only used one. Both elements on was to much of a boil and caused issues doing a 16 gallon batch. Only thing I overlooked was the tubing is different sizes. Spike Brewing uses a 5/8" OD. I just swapped my HLT pick up tube with my BK pick up tube and forced (not too hard) the bigger tubing in the HopStopper. Fits perfectly tight.

Can't wait to use it soon!
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GlennMcD



Joined: 07 Oct 2013
Posts: 50
Location: Louisiana


PostLink    Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2018 8:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Received my Hop Stopper 2.0 last week. Can't wait to shorten my brew day up some. Now just need to find a way to cool my ground water down.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9886
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2018 10:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GlennMcD wrote:
Received my Hop Stopper 2.0 last week. Can't wait to shorten my brew day up some.

It's not just about shortening the brew day, but also locking in those late addition hops early for super-bright hop notes. I find myself more pitching at flame out and chilling as fast as possible to below 80-90F just to lock in those flavours, then letting my fermenting fridges take the wort down to pitch temp before I pitch.

Letting hops steep for 30-60 mins just doesn't give the same results I find.

YMMV

Kal

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