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Electric Pale Ale
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11114
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Thu May 12, 2011 2:40 pm    Post subject: Electric Pale Ale Reply with quote


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Recipe is here: https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/pages/electric-pale-ale

Questions? Ask below. Cheers!

Kal

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Last edited by kal on Sun Sep 29, 2019 7:24 pm; edited 72 times in total
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rmessick




Joined: 20 Feb 2011
Posts: 123
Location: Turners Falls, MA


PostLink    Posted: Fri May 13, 2011 4:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice recipe, Kal! I really like the brews I have made that incorporate only late hop additions. Even better when there's Citra involved, too. Razz

-Dick
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pola0502ds




Joined: 14 Mar 2011
Posts: 290
Location: poland, Ohio


PostLink    Posted: Tue Jun 28, 2011 1:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm gonna do this brew on the 4th, I will left you guys know how it turns out.
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pola0502ds




Joined: 14 Mar 2011
Posts: 290
Location: poland, Ohio


PostLink    Posted: Tue Jun 28, 2011 1:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kal,

IS there a Wyeast yeast that is equal to the US-05? If there is not, how much of a starter did you make for a 5 gallon batch. I actually scaled this for a 10 gallon back.


Also, did you keep it in the primary for 2 weeks and then transfer to secondary for 10 days? Keg after that? How long did you left it age after it came out of the secondary?
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omegatke




Joined: 16 Dec 2010
Posts: 4



PostLink    Posted: Tue Jun 28, 2011 4:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Basically WLP-001, 1056 and Safale US-05 are extremely similar, if notthe same strain of yeast. So you should be able to substitute the White Labs (WLP-001) or Wyeast (1056) equivalent for the Safale US-05.
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Burglar




Joined: 11 Feb 2011
Posts: 56
Location: Detroit


PostLink    Posted: Tue Jun 28, 2011 4:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm still learning here - the lack of early hops is why the IBUs are so low for all that's added, right? So this beer shouldn't actually be bitter, but instead have a ton of citrus / pine in both aroma (dry hop) and mid-palate (late addition)? Never seen a recipe like this before, so pardon if my questions are dumb.
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pola0502ds




Joined: 14 Mar 2011
Posts: 290
Location: poland, Ohio


PostLink    Posted: Tue Jun 28, 2011 5:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Burglar wrote:
I'm still learning here - the lack of early hops is why the IBUs are so low for all that's added, right? So this beer shouldn't actually be bitter, but instead have a ton of citrus / pine in both aroma (dry hop) and mid-palate (late addition)? Never seen a recipe like this before, so pardon if my questions are dumb.


Kinda wondering the same thing, there is a crap load of hops going into this.

I just ordered all the hops, Amarillo was hard to find and expensive..

Whats your opinion on using Citra Pellet hops instead of whole hops to dry hop it?
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pola0502ds




Joined: 14 Mar 2011
Posts: 290
Location: poland, Ohio


PostLink    Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2011 11:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another question, it says to add the last hops and then put the lid on. On how long to you steep the hops before you remove the lid and chill it?
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11114
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2011 12:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

pola0502ds wrote:
IS there a Wyeast yeast that is equal to the US-05? If there is not, how much of a starter did you make for a 5 gallon batch. I actually scaled this for a 10 gallon back.

Take a look at the end of the recipe for Wyeast/White Labs liquid yeast suggestions. I've added these now.

Quote:
Also, did you keep it in the primary for 2 weeks and then transfer to secondary for 10 days? Keg after that? How long did you left it age after it came out of the secondary?

I ferment until it's almost done and then add the dry hops in the primary. At 66-68F fermentation temp this means adding the dry hops after about 7 days then leaving for another 7 days, then racking to the brite tanks and adding gelatine and letting it clear for 2-3 days, then kegging. I've added extra information to the original recipe.

Burglar wrote:
I'm still learning here - the lack of early hops is why the IBUs are so low for all that's added, right?

Correct!

Quote:
So this beer shouldn't actually be bitter, but instead have a ton of citrus / pine in both aroma (dry hop) and mid-palate (late addition)?

Correct again - that's the idea! See the link in the recipe description from Jamil's site that explains the ins and outs of late hoping.

pola0502ds wrote:
Whats your opinion on using Citra Pellet hops instead of whole hops to dry hop it?

I pretty much use pellet hops exclusively because they keep better and store better. I only rarely use whole hops, usually when a local farmer gives me some to try out only.

pola0502ds wrote:
Another question, it says to add the last hops and then put the lid on. On how long to you steep the hops before you remove the lid and chill it?


I usually start chilling immediately and leave the lid on. I've updated the instructions to include this.

Kal

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Last edited by kal on Sat Jul 13, 2013 9:53 pm; edited 2 times in total
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pola0502ds




Joined: 14 Mar 2011
Posts: 290
Location: poland, Ohio


PostLink    Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2011 1:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
I usually start chilling immediately and leave the lid on.

Kal


Thanks, whats your opinion on using pellet hops for dry hoping?

Also, did you keep it in the primary for 2 weeks and then transfer to secondary for 10 days? Keg after that? How long did you left it age after it came out of the secondary?
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11114
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Wed Jun 29, 2011 1:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I pretty much use pellet hops for everything since they stay fresh longer, there are more varieties available, and they pack smaller.

I ferment in a primary until fermentation is done then use a secondary only as a bright tank for 2-3 days (I add gelatine) and then keg. If there's dry hopping (like this beer) I dry hop in the primary once most of the fermentation is done. I then leave it in the primary for 7-10 after after adding the hops (fermentation will most definitely be done then).

Once in keg I put it in the serving fridge/freezer and attach the gas. Takes a couple of weeks or so to gas up properly which also allows it to mellow a bit.

_________________
Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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pola0502ds




Joined: 14 Mar 2011
Posts: 290
Location: poland, Ohio


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 11:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just so I understand the schedule. I may change something but let me know if thats okay.

-5-7 days for primary to be almost done fermenting, or how ever long it takes
-Dry hop, leave in primary for an additional 7-10 days
-Transfer to secondary and add gelatine, 2-3 days
-Transfer to keg, put in fridge. How long to you let it age or condition before you carb or until it's drinkable to your standards.

This schedule is for the above recipe.


I've never dry hopped before, I will be using carboys so do you add the hops to a hop bag and just drop them in the carboy? If you do that, do you have to sanitize the hop bag or do anything to the hops?
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11114
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2011 1:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

pola0502ds wrote:
Just so I understand the schedule. I may change something but let me know if thats okay.

-5-7 days for primary to be almost done fermenting, or how ever long it takes
-Dry hop, leave in primary for an additional 7-10 days
-Transfer to secondary and add gelatine, 2-3 days
-Transfer to keg, put in fridge. How long to you let it age or condition before you carb or until it's drinkable to your standards.

That's pretty much what I do for this beer (or similar ales that are dry-hopped).
Once it's in the keg I put it in the serving freezer and attach the gas line right away (no waiting). It then takes about 2 weeks to carb up and is ready to drink then. The 2 weeks also helps to drop out any chill haze that may have formed and also mellows the beer a bit. I always have other stuff to drink first so it's often more than a month before I tap it after having placed it in the freezer.

Quote:
I've never dry hopped before, I will be using carboys so do you add the hops to a hop bag and just drop them in the carboy? If you do that, do you have to sanitize the hop bag or do anything to the hops?

I just drop them in. You don't need to sanitize or do anything to the hops. Generally speaking, nothing grows on pellet hops. If you get any sort of infection from dry hopping with pellet hops you'll be one of the first (unlucky) people in the world that this happened to. I often measure out my dry hop pellets in cups or other containers that were never sanitized or even cleaned for that matter (full of hop debris). Once the beer has alcohol in it it's also harder for infections to take hold. Knock on wood but I've never had any sort of infection. Generally speaking you cannot infect a beer from adding hops.

Kal

_________________
Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0


Last edited by kal on Thu Apr 03, 2014 12:55 am; edited 2 times in total
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pola0502ds




Joined: 14 Mar 2011
Posts: 290
Location: poland, Ohio


PostLink    Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2011 1:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I brewed this beer yesterday and it went very well. I was having a problem with my temps but that was it. I bought a thermapen and my thermapen was reading 149-151 throughout the mash but my blichmann dial thermometer and PID both were reading exactly 152 the whole time. I don't know if my thermapen is off or what.

Anyway, I have a new question. I pitched the yeast and this morning i checked on it to find out the krausen has filled up my carboys and into the airlock. It's actually flowing out of it as well. Is this a problem? What should I do?

Oh yeah, I ended up with 91% eff. on my RIMS system.
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pola0502ds




Joined: 14 Mar 2011
Posts: 290
Location: poland, Ohio


PostLink    Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 2:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just wanted to say that I have been checking on this beer everyday and then a few days ago i added the dry hop addition and this beer smells absolutely wonderful. i can't wait to try it.
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pola0502ds




Joined: 14 Mar 2011
Posts: 290
Location: poland, Ohio


PostLink    Posted: Mon Jul 25, 2011 11:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Took a little sample the other day and it's still very bitter, needs to mellow out ut behind all that bitterness there is lots of flavor and boy does it smell good!
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pola0502ds




Joined: 14 Mar 2011
Posts: 290
Location: poland, Ohio


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jul 29, 2011 11:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well i transferred to a keg last night. Being that's its not carbed yet I can't give my final verdict but this beer tastes great!! It smells absolutely wonderful. From the way it smells you think it would be a strong IPA but it's not. Right now it's got medium bitterness. So far so good. I recommend this recipe to anyone.
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11114
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jul 29, 2011 12:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad you like it! It's definitely one of my favourites!

Kal

_________________
Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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pola0502ds




Joined: 14 Mar 2011
Posts: 290
Location: poland, Ohio


PostLink    Posted: Mon Aug 01, 2011 12:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well there was a bjcp beer contest this weekend and i had 2 others going into it. Even though this beer needs to age i said what the heck and entered it. I took 1st place for a cream ale and 3rd place for this APA. I was just a few points off because the bottle was not properly carbed. Just thought id let you know.
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Castermmt




Joined: 03 Jan 2011
Posts: 863
Location: Lowell, In

Drinking: Steelhead Porter, Alt-Toids, Hefty-Weizen, Terry's Kolsch, African Amber, Pumpkin Ale, Double Dog Ale

Working on: Janet's Brown Ale, Terry's Kolsch, Pilsner


PostLink    Posted: Mon Aug 01, 2011 1:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anyone have this in BeerSmith format (*.bsm file)? Sounds like a Winner!

I made my own but can't add a .bsm file. If anyone wants my version I'll send it to you. Castermmt
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