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50A Control Panel 30+ gallons
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2015 4:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


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pmcint01 wrote:
So I would simply run a 14ga wire from the number 1 on the Power in contactor to the fuse holder and then to the hot bus?

Yes.

Kal

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BigMike




Joined: 07 Jul 2016
Posts: 5
Location: Downingtown, PA

Drinking: Sierra Madre Pale Ale, Pliny Clone

Working on: Waldo Lake Amber


PostLink    Posted: Sun Sep 11, 2016 2:13 am    Post subject: 14 gauge Neutral connection to 50amp power-in connector Reply with quote

Apologies if I missed it somewhere, or if I'm reading the diagram incorrectly...

But the 14 gauge Neutral wire does not make solid connection with the 50amp California Style connector included in the control panel kit. After tightening, the wire pulls right out.

I had a blue 14g spade crimp-connector in my toolbox, and that seems to make good purchase in the connection, but I'm curious about using the 14g neutral wire connection from the bus to the 50amp connector, which was designed for 6 gauge wire connections and won't hold the 14g alone.

Diagram:




Connector with W closed as far as it will go, still too large of a gap for stripped 14g wire:






Has anyone else tackled this issue in a different/better way?


Thanks,
Mike
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Sun Sep 11, 2016 1:14 pm    Post subject: Re: 14 gauge Neutral connection to 50amp power-in connector Reply with quote

BigMike wrote:
But the 14 gauge Neutral wire does not make solid connection with the 50amp California Style connector included in the control panel kit. After tightening, the wire pulls right out.

Hi Mike - I've asked the manufacturer to chime in on this. They've built hundreds of these so there definitely has to be a way. I don't have one of these receptacles in front of me, but usually when you tighten down any of these sorts of receptacles the wire is pinched between two blades of of brass - you can see one of them in the picture on the white hole - the other is down lower? What I'm getting at is are you sure you're putting the wire in the right spot between the plates and not just between one plate and the plastic wall?

Kal

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BigMike




Joined: 07 Jul 2016
Posts: 5
Location: Downingtown, PA

Drinking: Sierra Madre Pale Ale, Pliny Clone

Working on: Waldo Lake Amber


PostLink    Posted: Sun Sep 11, 2016 5:51 pm    Post subject: Re: 14 gauge Neutral connection to 50amp power-in connector Reply with quote

kal wrote:
I don't have one of these receptacles in front of me, but usually when you tighten down any of these sorts of receptacles the wire is pinched between two blades of of brass - you can see one of them in the picture on the white hole - the other is down lower? What I'm getting at is are you sure you're putting the wire in the right spot between the plates and not just between one plate and the plastic wall?

Kal



Yep, the set screw tightens a rounded shoe up against the brass blade:



With the cover off:




And, well, I hadn't checked the manual until you mentioned contacting the manufacturer...


Quote:
"The inlet is designed for #10 - #4."


Looks like 14g won't work here, at least not to mfg spec.





I considered scaling up to 10g wire, but the 10gauge (yellow) spade/fork connector won't work in the bus bar
However, the male connector on the 14g holds well.

Mike
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Sun Sep 11, 2016 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Mike - good pictures. Best we wait for Mike of Spike Innovations to chime in on this. They've built hundreds of these and will offer suggestions. Doubling up 2-3 wires (twisted together) that go to the NEUTRAL bus is one option.

Kal

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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2016 7:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
Thanks Mike - good pictures. Best we wait for Mike of Spike Innovations to chime in on this. They've built hundreds of these and will offer suggestions. Doubling up 2-3 wires (twisted together) that go to the NEUTRAL bus is one option.

Got this note back from Mike of Spike Innovations:

"I double up the wire in that spot, one goes to the neutral bus and the other jumps over to the pumps. Twisting them together before inserting helps to beef them up as well, strip at least 3/4” to ensure good contact."

That's what I figured. Try that out and let us know how it goes.

Kal

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GLRRA47




Joined: 20 Dec 2015
Posts: 43
Location: Ohio


PostLink    Posted: Sun Dec 11, 2016 11:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Kal - wiring my 50 A panel and I have a quick question. The 50 A adaptation notes:

"The POWER KEY switch was previously wired directly to the POWER IN RELAY coil (per the POWER INPUT wiring diagram above). This wire must be removed otherwise the interlock feature will be bypassed and the control panel will power up regardless of how the three other switches are set."

*The last page of the adaptation has a picture showing a black 14 GA wire going from the hot #1 Y side of the contactor to the power key switch. Am I to leave it as the picture shows or remove it as noted in the quote above. (It's not coming from the "coil", so I suspect I wire as the picture shows?

Thanks
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Sun Dec 11, 2016 11:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GLRRA47 wrote:
Hi Kal - wiring my 50 A panel and I have a quick question. The 50 A adaptation notes:

"The POWER KEY switch was previously wired directly to the POWER IN RELAY coil (per the POWER INPUT wiring diagram above). This wire must be removed otherwise the interlock feature will be bypassed and the control panel will power up regardless of how the three other switches are set."

*The last page of the adaptation has a picture showing a black 14 GA wire going from the hot #1 Y side of the contactor to the power key switch. Am I to leave it as the picture shows or remove it as noted in the quote above. (It's not coming from the "coil", so I suspect I wire as the picture shows?

Hi!

Correct. The wires are not the same. Wire as per the instructions/diagrams. These are different wires. So both the text and the diagrams are correct.

In the first paragraph you quoted we're talking about a wire going to the coil of the POWER IN RELAY (contactor).

In your second paragraph you're asking about a wire connected to power input side of the the POWER IN RELAY (contactor). That's not the coil. So it's a different wire.

Kal

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GLRRA47




Joined: 20 Dec 2015
Posts: 43
Location: Ohio


PostLink    Posted: Mon Dec 12, 2016 12:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got it. Thanks for the fast reply!
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GLRRA47




Joined: 20 Dec 2015
Posts: 43
Location: Ohio


PostLink    Posted: Mon Dec 12, 2016 12:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

However, the 50 A adaptation (on the picture showing how to wire - in the shunt), does show a 14 GA black wire going from the "coil" left side of the power in contactor - to the top of the NO power key switch. That's OK - even though it is connected to the coil? (The safe start wiring picture doesn't show that wire - in fact it shows the wire from the coil going to the interlock relay?)

So, do I follow both pictures and run one 14 GA wire from the coil side of the power in contactor to the top of the power key switch and one to the #3 spot on the interlock relay?
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Mon Dec 12, 2016 1:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The 50A diagrams in these instructions in this thread are meant to replace those from the 30A standard build.

The safe start is optional in all builds so the wiring in the safe start is contradictory, or a change, to what was done in previous diagrams. This is normal. You can completely skip the safe start if you like and have a functional panel.

Wire per the diagrams, in order, and then if you'd like to include the safe start, some of the previous wiring will be undone/replaced as per the instructions for the safe start.

Please note that it is important that you still read the instructions for our standard 30A control panel build to make sure nothing important is missed. Often hints, tips or caveats are given. Do not build only using the wiring diagrams and instructions in this thread. You will most likely miss things.

Kal

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GLRRA47




Joined: 20 Dec 2015
Posts: 43
Location: Ohio


PostLink    Posted: Tue Dec 13, 2016 1:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep - I've been reading / following the 30 A instructions, but didn't realize the safe start was an optional set-up that would require removal of some previously installed wire. Make more sense now that I understand that.

Thanks
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Tue Dec 13, 2016 2:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No worries - good luck with the rest of your build!

Kal

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Creepy




Joined: 04 Feb 2014
Posts: 127
Location: North Chicago Burbs


PostLink    Posted: Thu Mar 30, 2017 3:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kal, random quick question for you... approximately how much does the pre-built 50A 30+ gallon panel weight? Looking at articulating TV mounts for it now. Thanks.
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Thu Mar 30, 2017 4:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Creepy! Not random at all - see our order page here for specs: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel

Weight: Approximately 42 lbs (30A panel) or 45 lbs (50A panel)
Dimensions: 18-1/2" H x 16" W x 9-1/8" D (470 x 407 x 232 mm)
Shipping box dimensions (assembled): 23" x 20" x 15" (584 x 508 x 381 mm)
Shipping box dimensions (DIY kit): 17" x 17" x 10" (432 x 432 x 254 mm)

Kal

_________________
Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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Creepy




Joined: 04 Feb 2014
Posts: 127
Location: North Chicago Burbs


PostLink    Posted: Fri Mar 31, 2017 2:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Kal. Apparently I'm just learning to read (should have looked a bit closer). Mug
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Fri Mar 31, 2017 4:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lots of information on this site - it's easy to miss stuff. Wink Good luck!

Kal

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themoose




Joined: 10 May 2017
Posts: 16
Location: 60069


PostLink    Posted: Wed May 17, 2017 12:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quick question, planning on starting my build soon. My plan is to start a 2 barrel nanobrewery a year or 2 down the road. My question is this: can I make 10-20 gallon batches in the meantime using the blichmann 55 gallon kettles with the extensions? I need to perfect my recipes but don't want to test them 62 gallons at a time. I also don't want to buy 20 gallon kettles and then have to upgrade them in a year unless there is no other choice. Thanks for any insight.
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Chris
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Wed May 17, 2017 1:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Chris,

If you're only interested in smaller batches for now, skip the extensions for now and add them later. You can get the 50A control panel for 30+ gallons and add one heating element per kettle then add the second down the road too, though two off the bat will certainly work and save you some time as you'll heat faster.

How you have the elements installed in the kettles will dictate your smallest batch size. You want to make sure they are are submerged at all times when used.

The only issue you may experience is a bit lower efficiency if making very small amounts of beer in large kettles due to the shallow grain depth which may channel a bit (water/wort not flowing evenly through the grain bed). Scaling beers always has changes that need to be made regardless of setup.

Good luck and welcome to the forum!

Kal

_________________
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We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
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themoose




Joined: 10 May 2017
Posts: 16
Location: 60069


PostLink    Posted: Thu May 18, 2017 3:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Kal, long time lurker, first time poster. Cool

I saw that Blichmann sells a plug for their kettles so I'm assuming plugging the hole I'll need to punch in the HLT and the Mash/Lauter Tun will be easy once I add the extensions and reconfigure.

I hope to start ordering parts next month so I'm sure I'll come across more questions. Thanks for your response, and for hosting this website. So much information!

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Chris
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