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One alarm/light with (2) inputs

 
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Sparky




Joined: 17 Dec 2010
Posts: 217
Location: Muir Beach, California


PostLink    Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2011 5:15 am    Post subject: One alarm/light with (2) inputs Reply with quote


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I am wiring up my 60amp build that will have some of the Kal setup, BUT with (2) timers since I will be doing back-to-back batches. So, my question is that I will only have (1) buzzer/light, and I want it to be activated by two sources (both timers).

Originally, I thought I would put a diode in both lines to block the back-feed, but am having a hard time finding a 120V diode. Any help? Here is the Kal setup (picture below). I want to add a timer and split it, BUT only have (1) buzzer/light.



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milldoggy




Joined: 23 Dec 2010
Posts: 569
Location: Pottstown, PA


PostLink    Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2011 7:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can't you just add it like the existing timer or pid? Jump power to it from the existing timer just like power coming from the pid on kals timer.
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2011 1:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No need for any diodes or the like... in my setup I have 3 PIDs and 1 timer driving the buzzer and alarm light. No reason why that couldn't be 2 timers (or 100).

Kal

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crush




Joined: 28 Dec 2010
Posts: 706
Location: Telemark, Norway


PostLink    Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2011 1:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sparky - just extend the existing circuit, adding more sources and switches in parallel with the alarm. I'm also including 2 timers, and perhaps an alarm from the pumps when they are dry (if it work out ok with an inline water sensor).

Since the new buzzers are illuminated, the alarm lamp is kind of redundant. I'm thinking about having the alarm lamp as a "alarm active" indicator that comes on when an alarm switch is turned into the on position.

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Sparky




Joined: 17 Dec 2010
Posts: 217
Location: Muir Beach, California


PostLink    Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2011 11:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm worried about the 120V back-fed into the other timer, especially if the switches are on.
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kal
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Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2011 12:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't understand what you mean by back-feed as there isn't any/doesn't matter. If you look at my original plan (above) with the 4 devices, you can have all 4 alarm switches on. Then 120V is fed back into the output of the other devices which isn't an issue since they're simply the outputs of internal relays on the devices that when closed get 120V from the HOT line. It's the same signal.

Kal

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Last edited by kal on Fri Apr 15, 2011 5:38 pm; edited 2 times in total
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Sparky




Joined: 17 Dec 2010
Posts: 217
Location: Muir Beach, California


PostLink    Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2011 3:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have (2) timers and (2) resets, but (1) buzzer/light.

I am going to have the boil/timer/reset on it's own, but going to the (1) buzzer/light.
The other one will have the HLT, MLT + timer and it's own reset also going to the buzzer/light.

I just don't want to 120V back-feeding to the other timer (when it is not tripped) and having it damage the unit or PID's.

Sorry, hope that explains it. I am too busy with work to draw up a schematic!
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crush




Joined: 28 Dec 2010
Posts: 706
Location: Telemark, Norway


PostLink    Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2011 6:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sparky, I hope I can explain.

When the 2nd timer is not producing an alarm signal and its alarm relay is open, it doesn't matter if you put 120v on the NO side of the relay when open, it simply doesn't go anywhere - it's an open circuit. So, other alarms don't create any problems for devices not producing an alarm.

When the 2nd timer produces an alarm and closes the relay, it closes the relay with the input supply. If there is already 120v on the line, it connects with the same source. (Everything ultimately comes from the same source - the power line in.)

There is no backfeeding since both come from the same source, and it's AC. Instead, when a 2nd alarm closes both the existing 120v from another timer/PID and the 120v from the new alarm combined and flow to neutral, which is via the buzzer in this case.

If this were a DC circuit, then I can understand that a diode might help, but not here, since it's AC. It's fine to extend Kal's design.

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Sparky




Joined: 17 Dec 2010
Posts: 217
Location: Muir Beach, California


PostLink    Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2011 4:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

D'oh! Of course, don't know what I was thinking. Maybe my head is wrapped around my work and having various DC and AC sources to contend with.
Thanks Crush, Kal, and MildDoggy!
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