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Brew Day Step by Step
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 1:58 pm    Post subject: Brew Day Step by Step Reply with quote


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This guide has moved here: https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/pages/brew-day-step-by-step

Questions? Ask below. Cheers!

Kal

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Last edited by kal on Thu Apr 29, 2021 8:32 pm; edited 29 times in total
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drbobdc




Joined: 09 Mar 2011
Posts: 7



PostLink    Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 2:15 pm    Post subject: ok Reply with quote

very nice, would like to see what kind of mess or not you make switching tubing around. But excellent article thanks so much.
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 2:24 pm    Post subject: Re: ok Reply with quote

drbobdc wrote:
very nice, would like to see what kind of mess or not you make switching tubing around. But excellent article thanks so much.


No mess at all.

When you disconnect the hose after you close the valve you'll get a few drips so I always have a little bowl in the other hand to catch them if it's wort. If it's just water often I won't bother. The few drips will dry.

Kal

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Spartan




Joined: 08 Mar 2011
Posts: 22



PostLink    Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 4:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why run the sparge water out of the HLT and back through the HERMS before going to the MLT? Why not direct from the HLT through the pump and to the MLT? As you reach the end of the sparge aren't you losing heat as the water travels through the HERMS coil?
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 4:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excellent questions! I've updated the information above...

Spartan wrote:
Why run the sparge water out of the HLT and back through the HERMS before going to the MLT? Why not direct from the HLT through the pump and to the MLT? As you reach the end of the sparge aren't you losing heat as the water travels through the HERMS coil?

It's a "free" way to clean out the HERMS coil and there's also 1/2 gallon of really sweet wort in there you don't want to lose.

Any minor heat loss is not important as I turn off the HLT element as soon as I start to sparge anyway with the 168F water. The heat drops over time but it doesn't matter: I still get 95% efficiency.

Lower sparge water temperaure near the end of the sparge is actually beneficial: It limits tannin extraction as the SG of the wort coming out drops and pH goes up.

I also don't want to leave the HLT element on as eventually the water level will drop low enough to expose the element to air. While the element can be fired 'dry' (not in water) and not break, it's not recommended.

Kal

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Spartan




Joined: 08 Mar 2011
Posts: 22



PostLink    Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 4:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Makes sense. I was wondering about the wort that got left in the tubing since you can't let the pump run dry. What about the wort left in the tubing going to the chiller?
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 4:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spartan wrote:
Makes sense. I was wondering about the wort that got left in the tubing since you can't let the pump run dry. What about the wort left in the tubing going to the chiller?

It's an extremely minor amount left in the hose (maybe 1/3 cup) and is part of the "brew house" losses that are normal.
Don't try and get every last drop out. Just make a few extra drops. Wink

If I want 10 gallons of beer in the kegs at the end I always target to have 12 gallons of post-boil wort in the boil kettle because I know I'm going to lose some when:

- I chill and transfer to the fermenter(s) as some stays behind the kettle, some in the hoses
- Losses to yeast/trub
- Dry hopping
- Rack off sediment to the brite tanks (to clarify)
- Racking off sediment to the kegs

Sometimes with very light tasting lagers I'll let the cold break settle after chilling and then rack the wort off before fermenting, so that's extra loses there too.

Kal

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Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
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pola0502ds




Joined: 14 Mar 2011
Posts: 290
Location: poland, Ohio


PostLink    Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 11:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think its really cool you keep checking the PH and adjusting it. Question for everyone else, how many people actually do or will do what kal does. I have brewed many times with friends and on other setups and I have never once seen someone check the PH during the brewing process, only before. The beer always tasted good to me. I'm not saying it's stupid or wrong to do, I just think its interesting and when i finish my build I will be wondering if I should do the same thing.
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rmessick




Joined: 20 Feb 2011
Posts: 123
Location: Turners Falls, MA


PostLink    Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 1:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

pola0502ds wrote:
how many people actually do or will do what kal does.


I typically test pH at these points (and adjust when necessary):

1. At mash in after my brewing salts have been added;
2. After the wort has been run off into the kettle before the boil (after adding the rest of my brewing salts addition)
; and
3. After the boil has been completed (before pitching).

I typically don't do any adjustment after the boil has been completed. FWIW, I also acidify my sparge water to about 5.7.

-Dick
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 1:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi!

I only adjust the pH of the mash (to 5.2) and the sparge water (to below 6, preferrably between 5.6-5.8).

I do also measure during sparging but that's more of an idle curiosity to see how things are doing (all numbers are recorded) - no adjustments are done. I then also measure pre and post boil (again just to see how the numbers are going - no adjustments are done). I don't measure after fermentation but some do.

Kal

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pola0502ds




Joined: 14 Mar 2011
Posts: 290
Location: poland, Ohio


PostLink    Posted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

rmessick wrote:
pola0502ds wrote:
how many people actually do or will do what kal does.


I typically test pH at these points (and adjust when necessary):

1. At mash in after my brewing salts have been added;
2. After the wort has been run off into the kettle before the boil (after adding the rest of my brewing salts addition)
; and
3. After the boil has been completed (before pitching).

I typically don't do any adjustment after the boil has been completed. FWIW, I also acidify my sparge water to about 5.7.

-Dick



Can you explain what the purpose is of checking it at those points and what you would do it you get a bad reading?
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rmessick




Joined: 20 Feb 2011
Posts: 123
Location: Turners Falls, MA


PostLink    Posted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 1:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

pola0502ds wrote:
Can you explain what the purpose is of checking it at those points and what you would do it you get a bad reading?


Basically, the wort is adjusted to produce the desired conditions for the enzymes to operate. A wide range is acceptable for mashing - between pH 4.5 and pH 5.6, although I generally try to stay in the 5.2 pH to 5.3 pH range. A higher pH is more basic and allows for a sweeter beer, while a low pH is more acidic and produces a drier beer.

During the boil, proper pH (in the 5.0 - 5.5 pH range) helps to produce a good protein break.

I don't tweak the pH too much, again, just trying to stay in the 5.2 - 5.3 pH range when mashing. To achieve this, if the pH is too low you add a salt with a high pH, like chalk (calcium carbonate); if the pH is too high you can acidify it with gypsum or add some lactic acid solution or phosphoric acid.

That's a very simplified answer, as the addition of brewing salts introduces a number of ions that can affect the starch conversion and fermentation - but that's a longer story Wink

One good reference is John Palmer's "How to Brew" (I think Kal has a link to this on the home page somewhere) - he provides a very comprehensive and understandable description of how pH and alkalinity are important in the brewing process.

-Dick
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pola0502ds




Joined: 14 Mar 2011
Posts: 290
Location: poland, Ohio


PostLink    Posted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 1:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Dick, Thanks for the response, I learned a lot. I actually have that book but have not go to that part yet.. Thanks again.
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DiNap44




Joined: 16 Dec 2010
Posts: 2



PostLink    Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kal,

Just wondering about the tool you're using to test the pH levels? Where can I find one and how much?

As always, thanks for the info.

Tommy D
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 4:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DiNap44 wrote:
Kal,

Just wondering about the tool you're using to test the pH levels? Where can I find one and how much?

As always, thanks for the info.

Tommy D


For complete list of parts I use during brew day, why I chose them, and where to get them, see: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/parts-list-using

Kal

_________________
Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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DiNap44




Joined: 16 Dec 2010
Posts: 2



PostLink    Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2011 4:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How did I miss that section? Perfect.

Thanks,

Tommy D
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acefaser




Joined: 27 Apr 2011
Posts: 4



PostLink    Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 5:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Question regarding the sparge/mash technique used in this electric brewery. Is that hose just left hanging in the tank or do you hold it above the mash to let the water flow down from the top? Would a shorter tube or drip system from the top work better? Great job on the build and website! Thanks, John
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2011 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi John!

acefaser wrote:
Question regarding the sparge/mash technique used in this electric brewery. Is that hose just left hanging in the tank or do you hold it above the mash to let the water flow down from the top? Would a shorter tube or drip system from the top work better? Great job on the build and website! Thanks, John


I use the same technique used by the Sabco Brew magic systems. Blichmann does the same with their auto-sparge arm. It's a simple technique that works well. No need for anything complicated.

For more information read: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/mash-lauter-tun?page=3

Quote:
We use a high temperature silicone food-grade return hose that simply rests on top of the grain bed. The silicone tubing we use is odourless, tasteless, inert, and FDA food-grade approved from -100F all the way up to 500F. The tubing is also translucent which lets us see the flow of liquid and air bubbles. This is high quality completely inert tubing, it's the same sort of stuff that's used in pharmaceutical labs and dairy farms.

The 5 foot length ensures that we can brew any batch size regardless of how much grain is used. When it comes time to sparge (rinsing the sugars out of the grain with water) we simply start pumping sparge water to the top of the grain bed using the same hose instead of recirculating sweet wort. The hose is not moved. The sparge water is pumped through the HERMS coil effectively cleaning out the coil of any sweet wort.

If you frequent other brewing websites you'll notice that there are countless methods for delivering sweet wort and sparge water to the top of the grain bed such as perforated manifolds and rotating arms. We find these a completely unnecessary complication that require extra work, extra cleaning, and may clog due to the small holes if some grain is inadvertently circulated. Permanently installed devices will also get in the way making cleaning of the MLT more difficult. Special rotating sparge arms cannot be used during the mash recirculation as the introduction of oxygen to the sweet wort by splashing needs to be minimized, so extra steps are required to add/remove these devices between the time the mash is complete and sparging starts.

Brewers argue that without these special perforated manifolds or rotating arms that channeling will occur. Channeling occurs when the sparge water used to rinse the grains does not pass through the grain bed evenly and leaves sugars behind, reducing the system efficiency. In an ideal setup the sparge water will pass through the grain bed evenly from top to bottom, rinsing the sugar off every last bit of grain. In poorly designed setups the liquid will create 'channels' from the top of the grain bed to the bottom. This typically happens when the liquid must pass through a smaller area at the bottom of the kettle such as a mesh hose. In our setup the large perforated false bottom helps ensure that the sparge water passes evenly through the entire grain bed from top to bottom, washing all the sugar out in a piston like manner. Our setup repeatedly achieves 95% efficiency (most achieve 65-75%) even though we 'only' use this simple piece of silicone hose for mash recirculation and sparging. Due to the simplicity of this setup, clogging is not possible and there are no extra parts to clean or to get in the way when you clean the kettle. Simpler is better!

Still not convinced? We admit those rotating sparge arms look pretty cool in action! Consider this: Sabco (makers of the high end Brew-Magic turn-key brewing systems) also use a simple silicone hose like ours for recirculating and sparging. They've sold hundreds if not thousands of their multi-thousand dollar gas setups to enthusiasts and professional breweries. If a $50 rotating works better they would be using it. Blichmann Engineering (the manufacturer of our BoilerMaker kettles) sells an optional sparge arm called the 'Auto Sparge'. It also uses a piece of silicone hose to recirculate and sparge in a manner identical to our setup.

The Blichmann 'Auto Sparge' arm also includes a valve and floating ball that stops/starts the delivery of sparge water as required to ensure that the rate of flow into the Mash/Lauter Tun matches that leaving the Hot Liquor Tank . While an interesting concept we find that matching rates is very easy to do by hand using our two pumps. Keeping the setup simple results in no chance of clogs and less parts to clean.




While mashing the silicone hose rests on top of the grain bed coiled, as shown here:



When it's time to mashout the hose it is not touched. When it's time to sparge, again the hose is not touched.

Sparging:



Another shot after all the water's been removed after sparging showing how the hose sits coiled on top of the grain bed:



Kal

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acefaser




Joined: 27 Apr 2011
Posts: 4



PostLink    Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2011 4:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the help. I read the info and for some reason was thinking the tubing was below the top of the grain (maybe from the first pic with the tubing stuck below the temp probe).
Now the next chapter you need to add to your "how to build" is "how to convince the SWMBO"
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2011 2:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

acefaser wrote:
Now the next chapter you need to add to your "how to build" is "how to convince the SWMBO"

That's one part I unfortunately cannot help with. Wink

Kal

_________________
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We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
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