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"Fuzzy Logic Brewery" Build
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Schnibbz



Joined: 05 Dec 2011
Posts: 23
Location: Woodstock, IL


PostLink    Posted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 7:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


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That answers my question about the rest of the body of the unit being at the same height as the 7x7 plate surface. If you would be so kind as to see how it handles a larger volume of water, it would be most appreciated. I'd just assume buy one of the same/similar model as build another for $25 if it is up to the task.
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Castermmt



Joined: 03 Jan 2011
Posts: 864
Location: Lowell, In

Drinking: Steelhead Porter, Alt-Toids, Hefty-Weizen, Terry's Kolsch, African Amber, Pumpkin Ale, Double Dog Ale

Working on: Janet's Brown Ale, Terry's Kolsch, Pilsner


PostLink    Posted: Fri Apr 13, 2012 1:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Schnibbz wrote:
That answers my question about the rest of the body of the unit being at the same height as the 7x7 plate surface. If you would be so kind as to see how it handles a larger volume of water, it would be most appreciated. I'd just assume buy one of the same/similar model as build another for $25 if it is up to the task.

Schnibbz, I tested this the other weekend with a 5 gallon carboy half full of water and was able to spin the stir bar but due to the shape of the bottom it would vibrate too much. If I had a dumb bell style stir bar it would work for sure. Hope this helps, Castermmt
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18DPA



Joined: 14 Nov 2011
Posts: 135
Location: Kuwait


PostLink    Posted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 5:41 pm    Post subject: Re: HERMS placement idea Reply with quote

Castermmt wrote:
When I installed my HERMS coil I used the stainless steel 90 degree tubing fittings. I was able to rotate half the coil almost to the bottom of the kettle over the heating element. The HERMS is now submerged in the water at much lower levels. We install the element at 3" and our bottom fitting install of the HERMS is about 1" above the element, so our lowest point of the coil would sit around 4" if we just use straight fittings . By being able to rotate the coil to near the bottom of the kettle we can submerge more of the coil to the heated water increasing the exposure of the heated water to more surface of the HERMS coil which could make the HERMS a little more efficient if water levels in your kettles drop below the coil level. this idea may or may not be useful, but its an idea, Castermmt


First off How big is your Garage?!!! It looks massive. Nice work with all of it.

Is this how your Herms Coil sits? Red being the element?



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Castermmt



Joined: 03 Jan 2011
Posts: 864
Location: Lowell, In

Drinking: Steelhead Porter, Alt-Toids, Hefty-Weizen, Terry's Kolsch, African Amber, Pumpkin Ale, Double Dog Ale

Working on: Janet's Brown Ale, Terry's Kolsch, Pilsner


PostLink    Posted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 7:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, It's 900 sf with 13 ft high ceilings kind of like a banquet hall. Yep, that's the right configuration I have with my HERMS. It gives you just a little more time for the heat transfer if your low on water.
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18DPA



Joined: 14 Nov 2011
Posts: 135
Location: Kuwait


PostLink    Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 1:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Castermmt wrote:
Thanks, It's 900 sf with 13 ft high ceilings kind of like a banquet hall. Yep, that's the right configuration I have with my HERMS. It gives you just a little more time for the heat transfer if your low on water.


Thanks! Its little tweaks and modifications like this that make this forum great. Thanks Kal and everyone else for the contributions.

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Castermmt



Joined: 03 Jan 2011
Posts: 864
Location: Lowell, In

Drinking: Steelhead Porter, Alt-Toids, Hefty-Weizen, Terry's Kolsch, African Amber, Pumpkin Ale, Double Dog Ale

Working on: Janet's Brown Ale, Terry's Kolsch, Pilsner


PostLink    Posted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 6:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

NOTE: I went back to using the hose. Upgraded the hose in the Mash tun to a sparge arm today, works great. I was getting to the point with the hose that it was hard to tell/see if it was flowing or not, so I seen this from another poster rabeb25 and it's very adjustable as well.


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sincere01



Joined: 16 Jun 2012
Posts: 162
Location: Gresham OR


PostLink    Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 6:39 pm    Post subject: JLD 612 Timer Question Reply with quote

Quote:
The PID's I got on E bay JLD 612 Universal Digital PID. They were a little cheaper but work for this application, If I did it again I'd of gotten the Auberns just because there's more information about them. The Timer is an Auberns.



I also ended up ordering the JLD612's, I'm just starting wiring now and have figured out everything except for how to wire up the alarms. With the Aubers Alarm 1 and Alarm 2 share a connection where with the JLD612's the J1 and J2(alarms) are totally separate.

May I ask how you wired up the alarms?
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kellzey



Joined: 04 Aug 2011
Posts: 580
Location: Orlando, FL


PostLink    Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That modular hose is interesting. I think it's only good to 170-degrees though?

http://locline.com/_doc/Specifications.pdf

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huaco



Joined: 05 Apr 2012
Posts: 1508
Location: Burleson Texas


PostLink    Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 7:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like there is a LOT of aeration happening with this. Why not just lay a silicone hose on top of the grain bed like Kal?
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9977
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 12:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kellzey wrote:
That modular hose is interesting. I think it's only good to 170-degrees though?

http://locline.com/_doc/Specifications.pdf


I looked at loc-line back when I was designing. There was a run of popularity about 3-4 years ago when some brewers started to use it. Some common complaints where that after a while it no longer held shape. Probably because of this comment from the specs as you mentioned:

Quote:
Maximum Operating Temperature: 170 F (Repeated exposure over this temperature will cause fatigue)


When sparging you're probably right at that temp.

I didn't go with it since it's only useful for sparging. You don't want to use it for mash recirc because of aeration issues as mentioned above though I suppose you could lower it during recirc so that it's at the water level and then raise it (or not) for sparging.

The other common complaint was bits getting stuck inside/hard to clean.

The silicone hose method I ended up using (same as what Sabco and Blichmann do) just seemed like the simplest.

While this is a personal choice, I also didn't like the "plastic" nature of it. It's made of Acetal Copolymer. I prefer to use only stainless and silicone if possible.

Kal

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Castermmt



Joined: 03 Jan 2011
Posts: 864
Location: Lowell, In

Drinking: Steelhead Porter, Alt-Toids, Hefty-Weizen, Terry's Kolsch, African Amber, Pumpkin Ale, Double Dog Ale

Working on: Janet's Brown Ale, Terry's Kolsch, Pilsner


PostLink    Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 5:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I should put it down in the mash when running the recirculation and sparging. I'm right at the upper limit on the temp of 170. I'll see how it goes, I kept the hose and fitting and could reconnect it in 3 minutes if need be. My concern was ruts/channeling in the grain bed from the flow of the hose only being in one area. Castermmt
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9977
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 6:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Castermmt wrote:
My concern was ruts/channeling in the grain bed from the flow of the hose only being in one area. Castermmt

If that was an issue I wouldn't get 95% efficiency. Blichmann and Sabco also do it that way. If there was a more expensive way to do it, they'd be doing it. Wink

See: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/mash-lauter-tun?page=3

To quote myself:

Quote:
If you frequent other brewing websites you'll notice that there are countless methods for delivering sweet wort and sparge water to the top of the grain bed such as perforated manifolds and rotating arms. We find these an unnecessary complication that require extra work, extra cleaning, and may clog due to the small holes if some grain is inadvertently circulated. Permanently installed devices will also get in the way, making cleaning the MLT more difficult. Special rotating sparge arms cannot be used during the mash recirculation as the introduction of oxygen to the sweet wort by splashing needs to be minimized, so extra steps are required to add/remove these devices between the time the mash is complete and sparging begins.

Brewers argue that without these special perforated manifolds or rotating arms that channeling will occur. Channeling occurs when the sparge water used to rinse the grains does not pass through the grain bed evenly and leaves sugars behind, reducing the systems efficiency. In an ideal setup the sparge water will pass through the grain bed evenly from top to bottom, rinsing the sugar off every last bit of grain. In poorly designed setups, the liquid will create 'channels' from the top of the grain bed to the bottom. This typically happens when the liquid must pass through a smaller area at the bottom of the kettle such as a mesh hose. In our setup, the large perforated false bottom helps ensure that the sparge water passes evenly through the entire grain bed from top to bottom, washing all the sugar out in a piston like manner. Our setup repeatedly achieves 95% efficiency (most achieve 65-75%) even though we 'only' use this simple piece of silicone hose for mash recirculation and sparging. Due to the simplicity of this setup, clogging is not possible and there are no extra parts to clean or to get in the way when you clean the kettle. Simpler is better!

Still not convinced? We admit those rotating sparge arms look pretty cool in action. Consider this: Sabco (makers of the high end Brew-Magic turn-key brewing systems) also use a simple silicone hose like ours for recirculating and sparging. They've sold hundreds if not thousands of their multi-thousand dollar gas setups to enthusiasts and professional breweries. If a $50 rotating sparge arm worked better they would be using it. Blichmann Engineering (the manufacturer of our BoilerMaker kettles) sells an optional sparge arm called the 'Auto Sparge'. It also uses a piece of silicone hose to recirculate and sparge in a manner similar to our setup.

The Blichmann 'Auto Sparge' arm also includes a valve and floating ball that stops/starts the delivery of sparge water as required to ensure that the rate of flow into the Mash/Lauter Tun matches that leaving the Hot Liquor Tank . While an interesting concept, we find that matching rates is very easy to do by hand using our two pumps. Keeping the setup simple results in no chance of clogs and less parts to clean.


Kal

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Castermmt



Joined: 03 Jan 2011
Posts: 864
Location: Lowell, In

Drinking: Steelhead Porter, Alt-Toids, Hefty-Weizen, Terry's Kolsch, African Amber, Pumpkin Ale, Double Dog Ale

Working on: Janet's Brown Ale, Terry's Kolsch, Pilsner


PostLink    Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2012 5:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Castermmt wrote:
Upgraded the hose in the Mash tun to a sparge arm today, works great. I was getting to the point with the hose that it was hard to tell/see if it was flowing or not, so I seen this from another poster rabeb25 and it's very adjustable as well.


Update, I have decided to reinstall my hose for Lautering and Sparging. Well after a few batches using this arm and reading the book "making better beer" by Gordon Strong, the arm does in fact have a propensity to introduce air into the mash, which I have learned is not a good thing to do. We Live and We learn.

Castermmt Embarassed

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Castermmt



Joined: 03 Jan 2011
Posts: 864
Location: Lowell, In

Drinking: Steelhead Porter, Alt-Toids, Hefty-Weizen, Terry's Kolsch, African Amber, Pumpkin Ale, Double Dog Ale

Working on: Janet's Brown Ale, Terry's Kolsch, Pilsner


PostLink    Posted: Sun Jun 09, 2013 6:58 pm    Post subject: The Most Interesting Man In The World @ Fuzzy Logic Brewery! Reply with quote

The Most Interesting Man In The World @ Fuzzy Logic Brewery! I just couldn't help myself.


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Ben58



Joined: 14 Aug 2011
Posts: 409
Location: Hamilton, Ontario


PostLink    Posted: Sun Jun 09, 2013 7:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like it! Thumbs Up And your tastes are definitely better than the actual commercial.
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Castermmt



Joined: 03 Jan 2011
Posts: 864
Location: Lowell, In

Drinking: Steelhead Porter, Alt-Toids, Hefty-Weizen, Terry's Kolsch, African Amber, Pumpkin Ale, Double Dog Ale

Working on: Janet's Brown Ale, Terry's Kolsch, Pilsner


PostLink    Posted: Mon Jun 10, 2013 4:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ben58 wrote:
I like it! Thumbs Up And your tastes are definitely better than the actual commercial.


He's only the Most Interesting man, Not the Smartest. LOL

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DIBS



Joined: 18 Mar 2013
Posts: 24
Location: Slave Lake


PostLink    Posted: Wed Dec 25, 2013 11:20 pm    Post subject: Gear Reduction Reply with quote

Hey there,
I have the same motor, and I want to do the same thing for milling. Where did you get the gear reduction thing at? Is it about a 9:1 reduction? Let me know please. Thanks
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Castermmt



Joined: 03 Jan 2011
Posts: 864
Location: Lowell, In

Drinking: Steelhead Porter, Alt-Toids, Hefty-Weizen, Terry's Kolsch, African Amber, Pumpkin Ale, Double Dog Ale

Working on: Janet's Brown Ale, Terry's Kolsch, Pilsner


PostLink    Posted: Thu Dec 26, 2013 12:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is the procedure I used. I used a bare bones a JPS malt-mill and it works great. Hope this helps. I added a few more pictures of the setup. Hope this helps, Castermmt


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DIBS



Joined: 18 Mar 2013
Posts: 24
Location: Slave Lake


PostLink    Posted: Thu Dec 26, 2013 4:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey bud,
thanks for the pics. Everything looks great. But where did you get the coupler and wheel from to make the reduction? Thats what Im looking for. Thanks
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Castermmt



Joined: 03 Jan 2011
Posts: 864
Location: Lowell, In

Drinking: Steelhead Porter, Alt-Toids, Hefty-Weizen, Terry's Kolsch, African Amber, Pumpkin Ale, Double Dog Ale

Working on: Janet's Brown Ale, Terry's Kolsch, Pilsner


PostLink    Posted: Thu Dec 26, 2013 11:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DIBS wrote:
Hey bud,
thanks for the pics. Everything looks great. But where did you get the coupler and wheel from to make the reduction? Thats what Im looking for. Thanks


Grainger has everything needed.

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