conduit boxes

crush · Joined: 28 Dec 2010 Posts: 706 Location: Telemark, Norway

I've just started working on my conduit boxes for the heating elements, and I'm having trouble getting the cover to fit on the kettle side of the box.

I bought ace 2 gang boxes from acehardware (via amzon so Kal get's credit.) But the the top and bottom faces are not alike - the box tapers from the bottom face (the open side) to the top face (the one touching the kettle), so the top face is slightly smaller than the bottom face, and the covers are not a good fit. The covers fit perfectly where they are meant to go, but not on the other side that touches the kettle.

I understand the cover on the kettle side is used to get a flat surface so that the o-rings can make a good seal. With the smaller top face, the cover is too large, there is about 2/16" gap all around. I could:

1. not use a cover on the kettle side, and hope that I still get a good seal
2. put the cover on as is, and live with the ugly overhang
3. trim off the bevel from the edge of the cover so that it is completely flat. It will then fit onto the conduit box.

Any advice/suggestions appreciated!

**Spike Innovations** · Posted: Fri Mar 18, 2011 10:17 pm Post subject:

It's hard to say as I have not had the chance to tackle this portion myself yet, but I'm pretty sure I can visualize what your trying to explain.

What I would probably do, is mount the plate on the kettle side, and then simply trim or cut the plate as close as you can to the outside of the box (i don't know if tin snips would work, or a jigsaw, dremel, etc.). From there, take a file and file the cover so it is perfectly smooth with the outside edges of the conduit box.

Mike

crush · Joined: 28 Dec 2010 Posts: 706 Location: Telemark, Norway

Thanks for the expert advice Mike! Reducing the cover to fit sounds like a good plan, and snips and file the way to go. (Although I thought I had ordered some snips, but now I see I cancelled that order...D'oh.)

I had hoped it was ok to assume that any 2 gang 3/4" outlet box would do - I wasn't expecting there to be much difference between models. Still, this isn't a showstopper, just a bit more extra work for the dremel.

One more question, the blank covers come with foam gaskets, should I use these? I'd guess they're about 3mm thick, and are a bit larger than the cover, so have a slight overhang. I'm guessing that in normal use they are sandwiched between the cover and the outlet box, meaning the gasket is visible from the outside, sandwiched between the box and the cover. I don't really like the sound of that, and was thinking instead of sealing the box with silicone sealant instead, since it doesn't take up so much space and the box is then just metal touching metal all round, making painting easier. Does that sound ok?

crush · Joined: 28 Dec 2010 Posts: 706 Location: Telemark, Norway

I just took a look at Kal's photos again, and it seems his outlet boxes are also tapered, you can see the overhang of the cover on the kettle side. I hadn't noticed this before. So, other than a slight aesthetic issue, I guess there is no real problem with using the covers as is.

I bought an extra one for spare, so I will try cutting/filing down and see how it looks.

rosenjm · Joined: 21 Dec 2010 Posts: 249 Location: Ballston Spa, NY

I had the same issue when building mine. Since the covers are not meant to attached to the back side of the box, the fit isn't perfect. The will fit though. Make sure you use a lot of JB weld to seal around the element hole as there will be a slight gap between the cover and the box (1/8"),

crush · Joined: 28 Dec 2010 Posts: 706 Location: Telemark, Norway

I cut the holes in the covers and outlet boxes today. The drill press makes this so much easier! The bimetal saws are just incrediable, and eat through the outlet boxes like a schoolkid eating chocolate!

If I were doing this again, I would either use a half of the 1oz of JB weld or trim off the bezel from the covers so they sit flush with the boxes. The main parts list specifies one pack of jbweld, and maybe that was plenty for some, but after sealing down the cable plate on the control panel there was only 1/3 left.

If the cover isn't fully sealed to the conduit box, is it much of a problem? I'm thinking that both the cover and the conduit box are sealed from the inside with silicone adhesive, which protects the element electrical connection from water.

JP · Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 12:09 am Post subject:

When I built my box, I flared the holes on the kettle side of the box so the cover would fit tight and flat. I used only a small amount of JB weld compound.

The pictures show the holes flared, it allows for the flared part of the cover to fit in nicely.

JP

crush · Joined: 28 Dec 2010 Posts: 706 Location: Telemark, Norway

Ah, thanks jp, nice! I thought it was the bezel on the outside causing the problem. If I had realized that it was from the underside of the screwholes on the cover, I would have just filed them down or flared the screw holes on the box.

Another problem that I had was that after using the cover to position the screw holes, 2 of the drilled holes went into the mounts for the ground screws. I don't have the tools/patience to drill into those, so I will just seal them up and drill some new holes later. (The ground screws are not in the same location as they are in your photo.)

Another minor problem I had was that unlike yours and Kal's covers, mine only came with screws, no washers or nuts, since the box has holes tapped for the screws, which extend from one side to the other. This meant there was really only one way to orient the cover, and doing that headed two screw holes into the ground posts.

So I ended up only using 2 screws. To get the jbweld to stick, I clamped down the covers, using the cutout from the conduit box. This applied pressure on the center of the box

Kal, I'm sure it would be helpful for others if you list the exact part you used. I bought 2 gang conduit boxes, the same size as yours with covers, but obviously they are not all created equal. The problem with mine is that the ground screw fixtures are right in the way of where the screw holes would go.

JP · Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 12:43 am Post subject:

**kal** · Posted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 1:13 am Post subject:

I used Red Dot boxes from Home Depot Canada. They don't seem to be available anywhere else.

Kal

milldoggy · Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 569 Location: Pottstown, PA

I put my cover on with the taper facing the keggle, opposite of Kal, then used a small round hammer and pounded the edge flat. Came out real nice. Also make sure to grind anything sticking up box.

crush · Joined: 28 Dec 2010 Posts: 706 Location: Telemark, Norway

I did grind (file, in fact) anything protruding from the back side of the box. I first used a dremel, but found that it was much quicker to use a coarse file.

I really like the idea of putting the cover on in reverse. I wish I had thought of that. Too late now! Very Happy

rcrabb22 · Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 462 Location: Illinois

**kal** · Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 1:25 am Post subject:

Intersting guys. When I first put together the elements section of the site (about a year and a half ago) Red Dot was only listed at the Canadian Home Depot site, not the American one. Red Dot is definitely what I used.

This picture from my instructions is the definite hint: Smile

Kal

milldoggy · Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 569 Location: Pottstown, PA

I used Red dot from Lowes in PA.

silverspoons · Joined: 21 Dec 2010 Posts: 555 Location: Webster NY

crush.. Check out the thread on conduit boxes.. I had that problem with the screw holes lining up with the ground screws. I had to use my dermal to do a little grinding. Only took a minute or so. Pics in my photo album.

Silver spoons

rcrabb22 · Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 462 Location: Illinois

Of all things......... I am stymied for lack of a drill press to make a round hole in the conduit box. I tried to do it free hand with a hand drill and a hole saw and the saw wants to travel far to much to make a decent hole. I tried a block of wood underneath to help stabilize the pilot bit but no good. I have asked all my handy friends and no one owns a drill press. One of them volunteered to go in one one 60/40 (me of course me the 60) and get to keep it. No more beer for him Smile

My next idea is to call the local high school and beg an industrial arts teacher to help me drill the hole.

crush · Joined: 28 Dec 2010 Posts: 706 Location: Telemark, Norway

You could send the boxes to me and I'd drill them for you. But since I live in Norway, that's probably not such a great offer! Very Happy

Perhaps someone here might be willing to lend a hand.

You have to take it slowly, even with a drill press. I took at least a minute, maybe two. With a hand drill you could be looking at more than double that. You probably know this, but every craftsman I've met always tells me, "let the tool do the work." Maybe with very light pressure and patience, and low rpms, and you will probably get through and without too much going astray.

I'm sure the industrial arts teacher would drill for you for a bottle or two of the good stuff!

rmessick · Joined: 20 Feb 2011 Posts: 123 Location: Turners Falls, MA

rcrabb22 · Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 462 Location: Illinois

Crush and rmessick

Thanks for the words advice and encouragement!! I gave it another go freehand, going slow with my Wesson vegtable oil and was able to drill a hole. It's not perfectly centered but I can adjust for that when I punch my hole in the cover plate. Doing the JB Weld seal tonight and should have my element mounted in my HLT tomorrow. Woooo Hoooo!