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tmcmaster007
Joined: 11 Jan 2011 Posts: 48 Location: South Lyon, MI
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Link Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2011 1:11 pm Post subject: Problem #0164- Elements not heating up |
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Here we go again. If I wasnt' having so much fun learning about all this stuff I might find another problem frustrating
I got to the point in my build where the CP was starting to come together and decided to test out the heating elements that I have mounted in the kettles. The three way switch I was sent has the wrong contact block so I just plugged the elements in to the boil kettle receptacle one at a time. The boil part of the switch works. The light lights up and the mechanical relay clicks and engages. However, when testing each element, neither heated up. So here are my questions:
1. When the light turns on does that mean that the element is receiving power? or does it just mean that it SHOULD be receiving power?
2. How can I be sure that the SSR is functioning properly? The ones Auber sent me are not the same type Kal has, but are the same type listed from Asia Engineer on Ebay.
3. If the mechanical relay is engaging does that mean that the SSR is working?
4. Is their something I'm not doing properly when setting my PID. I just turn up the number on the bottom of the display.
Thanks.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11122 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2011 1:24 pm Post subject: Re: Problem #0164- Elements not heating up |
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tmcmaster007 wrote: | 1. When the light turns on does that mean that the element is receiving power? or does it just mean that it SHOULD be receiving power? |
The yellow lights are *directly* connected to the 240V element output receptacles. If you wired it up correctly per my plans, when the light is on, the receptacle is receiving power.
Quote: | 2. How can I be sure that the SSR is functioning properly? The ones Auber sent me are not the same type Kal has, but are the same type listed from Asia Engineer on Ebay. |
Use voltmeter to troubleshoot. The SSRs may also have little LEDs on them to show when they're switched 'on'.
Quote: | 3. If the mechanical relay is engaging does that mean that the SSR is working? |
No. They're two different devices. No related. On working does not guarantee the other isn't defective or incorrectly wired.
Quote: | 4. Is their something I'm not doing properly when setting my PID. I just turn up the number on the bottom of the display. |
When the PID turns on the output the little "OUT" light turns on to show that it's "on". You can measure this with a voltmeter to make sure it's correct.
Kal
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tmcmaster007
Joined: 11 Jan 2011 Posts: 48 Location: South Lyon, MI
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Link Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2011 1:29 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Kal. The light for the element is definetly on. I did wire as directed on your page. So if the light is on, the element is receiving power, so why no heat?
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11122 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2011 1:40 pm Post subject: |
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tmcmaster007 wrote: | Thanks Kal. The light for the element is definetly on. I did wire as directed on your page. So if the light is on, the element is receiving power, so why no heat? |
Very good question. Something is not wired right or working right. (sorry for the obvious).
Kal
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11122 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2011 1:43 pm Post subject: |
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tmcmaster007 wrote: | Thanks Kal. The light for the element is definetly on. I did wire as directed on your page. So if the light is on, the element is receiving power, so why no heat? |
Actually, just to be clear, just because the light is on doesn't mean the element is receiving power. It means that most likely the receptacle is receiving power. If something is mis-wired or not working correctly downstream of that then the element may not receive power.
If neither element is getting power when plugged into either outlet you most likely mis-wired something as the odds of both sets of parts downstream of the receptacles having defective parts is pretty much zero.
See:
Kal
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tmcmaster007
Joined: 11 Jan 2011 Posts: 48 Location: South Lyon, MI
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Link Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2011 2:04 pm Post subject: |
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Ok, I'll check my receptacle when I get home. One more thing. The SSR's I received are different than on the site. You have the top (I assume this because of the writing on the SSR itself) as AC. The top contacts of my SSR say OUTPUT and the bottom contacts say CONTROL. I have the larger wires (10 gauge) going to the OUTPUT. Is that the same as AC?
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11122 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2011 2:10 pm Post subject: |
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tmcmaster007 wrote: | Ok, I'll check my receptacle when I get home. One more thing. The SSR's I received are different than on the site. You have the top (I assume this because of the writing on the SSR itself) as AC. The top contacts of my SSR say OUTPUT and the bottom contacts say CONTROL. I have the larger wires (10 gauge) going to the OUTPUT. Is that the same as AC? |
I would assume yes.
Kal
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Spike Innovations TheElectricBrewery.com manufacturer
Joined: 26 Feb 2011 Posts: 245 Location: ME
Working on: Your Brewery!
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Link Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2011 2:46 pm Post subject: |
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tmcmaster007 wrote: | Ok, I'll check my receptacle when I get home. One more thing. The SSR's I received are different than on the site. You have the top (I assume this because of the writing on the SSR itself) as AC. The top contacts of my SSR say OUTPUT and the bottom contacts say CONTROL. I have the larger wires (10 gauge) going to the OUTPUT. Is that the same as AC? |
If you have the ones from Auber then yes, they function and are hooked up exactly like Kal's description.
If you have a multimeter, be sure to test at your voltage at a few different places:
1- At the receptacle output on the bottom of the box with nothing plugged into it. This should read 240 across both HOT Lines and 120 between each hot and ground. Of course make sure that the PID light is saying ON, the SSR light is ON, and your switch is on.
2- If all is good there, take the cover off your box that is attached to the heating element. Plug it into the CP and make sure all the above are happening as well. Measure between your two hot lines that are directly connected to the heating element. Make sure you get 240 here as well.
If you have all that, then my guess would be a bad heating element? But who knows.
Let us know what you find
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tmcmaster007
Joined: 11 Jan 2011 Posts: 48 Location: South Lyon, MI
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Link Posted: Wed Mar 16, 2011 2:55 pm Post subject: |
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Thinking back to last night when I was troubleshooting myself I don't remember the LED's on the SSR coming on. Would that be on intermittently or constantly? I could have just not noticed it if it turned on and off. Seems that if the element wasn't heating it would need to be on constantly.
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tmcmaster007
Joined: 11 Jan 2011 Posts: 48 Location: South Lyon, MI
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Link Posted: Thu Mar 17, 2011 12:48 pm Post subject: |
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Went out last night and bought a multimeter (should've had one before) and tested the boil outlet to see what was causing the element to not heat up. At first I wasn't getting a reading even though the switch on the CP was turned to boil and the mechanical relay was engaged. At this time there was no red LED on the SSR. Did some thinking and decided to monkey around with the boil PID a bit. Turns out that the A-M setting was set to 0 as per instructions. Changed this to 2 and then back to 0 an magically the SSR light came on and got a 220 reading from the boil receptacle. Not sure if anyone else is having this problem, but might be worth it to try this very simple fix.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11122 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Thu Mar 17, 2011 1:50 pm Post subject: |
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tmcmaster007 wrote: | Did some thinking and decided to monkey around with the boil PID a bit. Turns out that the A-M setting was set to 0 as per instructions. Changed this to 2 and then back to 0 an magically the SSR light came on and got a 220 reading from the boil receptacle. Not sure if anyone else is having this problem, but might be worth it to try this very simple fix. |
That should not have fixed anything. Odds are there's a lose connection in the PID and you pressing on the front of it fixed it.
Kal
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tmcmaster007
Joined: 11 Jan 2011 Posts: 48 Location: South Lyon, MI
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Link Posted: Thu Mar 17, 2011 1:53 pm Post subject: |
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That's sort of what I was thinking, but it works now I'll be sure to recheck the PID connections. I also learned that the GFI on the plug works...oops.
_________________ Crabby T
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