Panel Troubleshooting

milldoggy · Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 569 Location: Pottstown, PA

Neutral looks correct. How about pics of the bottom half of the door

longarmbrewing · Joined: 16 Dec 2010 Posts: 74 Location: WA

I'm a little peaved about the NO NO switch not because it is messed up but because the ebay vendor has rediculous shipping costs. $12 shipping? Please I can order the same part from one of the Chinese vendors and have it sent across the globe for less. This is particularly compounded because they sent the wrong one in the first place.

But I digress. So here is the lower part of the panel.

milldoggy · Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 569 Location: Pottstown, PA

I would call them. Sounds like you ordered from electrical parts, which is pioneer breaker .com. I have talked to Tamas, he was very helpful.

As for the wiring, it looks correct. Sorry not much help.

Is there a terminal between 6 and 7 or is that just the spacing. Is the contact block all the way on? Can you take an angled pic so we can see the terminals?

tmcmaster007 · Joined: 11 Jan 2011 Posts: 48 Location: South Lyon, MI

Well I guess that's good news?? for me too. My 3 way switch has one green side and one red. Apparently they sent the wrong one to me too. Was just about to type up the same post. Spent about 2 hrs. messing about with that switch yesterday. Already got an e-mail into Pioneer on the problem.

crush · Joined: 28 Dec 2010 Posts: 706 Location: Telemark, Norway

Just to comment on the shipping costs from pioneer breaker/electric parts. I got my order through, and seems correct. The packaging was exceptionally well done, and that may well add to the shipping cost.

My shipper to europe charges by volume, so I would have been possibly a bit happier if it wasn't quite so well packed! Wink

But at least all the components came through in perfect condition.

longarmbrewing · Joined: 16 Dec 2010 Posts: 74 Location: WA

I got an email back from them also stating they would ship a new one out today for me as well. Hopefully they don't think we are the same person as he said he already had my address. Perhaps from the previous transaction.

Now just to get the timer working and all will be good.

milldoggy · Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 569 Location: Pottstown, PA

Any luck or more pics? Are the pumps correct now?

Did you get them to ship the NC/NC block for the interlock also?

longarmbrewing · Joined: 16 Dec 2010 Posts: 74 Location: WA

Didn't get a chance to snap more picks. Though the pumps switches are as they should be.

I broke out the multimeter and ran continuity checks down the line and everything seemed to check out fine. I think the timer is dead or the wiring harness is crap. I'm looking for my receipt from Omega because it has a 13month warranty so far I have a packing slip so I would think they would honor that.

I didn't even think to ask for NC/NC blocks.

milldoggy · Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 569 Location: Pottstown, PA

You only need one NC/NC block, you have every else, I would ask if they can include it. I had a similar issue and the reduced the shipping. They forgot my orange backplate, sent that free and cut me a deal on shipping for the NC/NC block because I forgot to get it.

crush · Joined: 28 Dec 2010 Posts: 706 Location: Telemark, Norway

Since single blocks were the same cost as the switches, I just ordered a couple of extra switches. Gives me some flexibility and the extra blocks needed.

milldoggy · Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 569 Location: Pottstown, PA

These switches don't use single blocks, the blocks are a unit and can be NC/NC, NC/NO, or NO/NO

crush · Joined: 28 Dec 2010 Posts: 706 Location: Telemark, Norway

Ah, I see the pics above we're talking about the newer blocks. I've got the same selector/contact blocks that kal uses (telemechanique), and each contact block is a separate item. You'll see on some of kals pictures that one of the blocks has been removed. When I was buying, extra single contact blocks were the same price as a switch with two contact blocks, so I figured I might as well just buy the extra switches, just in case any of them were duff or I needed extra.

longarmbrewing · Joined: 16 Dec 2010 Posts: 74 Location: WA

I called Omega today and talked to them about my issue. They said while rare it is most likely a dead timer. They concured that I had it correctly wired and that it should be working. They also gave me an RTV number shipping account number to send mine back and 2nd Day shipping on a replacement.

I am very impressed with Omega's customer service.

milldoggy · Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 569 Location: Pottstown, PA

glad to hear they are sending a new timer.

longarmbrewing · Joined: 16 Dec 2010 Posts: 74 Location: WA

So new timer arrives today. And I plug the thing and get nothing. So any clues at this point are certainly welcome.

I have continuity into and out so I know must be getting juice. I'm stumped and very frustrated.

Castermmt · Posted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 2:21 am Post subject:

Continuity and juice are two different things. Do you have 110 volts (juice) to the device? Take a picture of the wire run if you can and include the pins you have the 110 going to. on my set up the timer is using a 110 volt jumper from my PID next to it like a daisy chain.

longarmbrewing · Joined: 16 Dec 2010 Posts: 74 Location: WA

Photos covering the wiring can be seen above. Everything in the chain prior to the timer is getting juice and are live. So only thing I could.figure now is a lack or juice off the pid.

Castermmt · Posted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 2:43 am Post subject:

Do you have voltage to the timer? I cant see the wiring from the pid to the timer.z I think the PID only use 3 watts each. so you should have all the voltage you need. I would get my 110 from pins 9 and 10 of the PID, Black to black White to White. If you have a volt meter we can get this narrowed down pretty fast.

**Spike Innovations** · Posted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 2:56 am Post subject:

did you ever check the contact block? Possibly it is faulty and although you are getting voltage at the spade terminals, it may not be getting anything at the pins on the timer? I would unplug the timer and remove it from the door so you can have enough room to swing the contact block over and test to make sure you are receiving voltage on the pin outputs as well.

If you're wiring is right and the second timer is not working, this is the only thing that I can think of that would cause problems.

Mike

longarmbrewing · Joined: 16 Dec 2010 Posts: 74 Location: WA

I feel a bit dim and no doubt frustration took a hold on me. I went back through the wiring and found a problem with the wiring run from the bus through the PID's to run the timer. I when I was checking my runs I kept checking the run to power the PIDs. So I fixed that short in the line and all is functioning.

Thank you all for the help! Now if I can get everything programed and make it though my second stainless coil without trashing it this project was a wonderful success and a ton of fun to build. Less the coil of course.