Panel Troubleshooting

longarmbrewing · Joined: 16 Dec 2010 Posts: 74 Location: WA

OK so I finished my Control Panel today. I hooked it up to the power and no go. I get a click and a flash of the Amp and Volt meter and then goes dark. Also no power light at any time. The fuse hasn't blown so I know it is getting juice but I'm at a loss as to what I might be missing after I gave it several double checks.

Every time I disconect the power and then put it back in and turn the switch I get the same thing. Any and all suggestions are welcome here.

milldoggy · Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 569 Location: Pottstown, PA

Maybe a short somewhere? Can you take a pic of the panel? Does GFCI in the cable reset?

Does the main relay reset or open? If power just turns off and the relay says closed, makes me think it is something before the main relay, so the cable or breaker or wiring. Especially if the fuse is not bad and nothing is lighting up off the hot bus. Have you tested if there is current on the hot bus with a meter?

Not an expert, just thinking.

longarmbrewing · Joined: 16 Dec 2010 Posts: 74 Location: WA

Ok so made it past the power part. Found a loose wire on the bus. Now on to some other issues.

So the Element select is set to off but the HLT light is on. When I switch it to the HLT it goes off. When I move it to Boil both lights are on.

And I need to find out why my Omega isn't getting any juice apparently.

milldoggy · Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 569 Location: Pottstown, PA

Are you the yellow contact blocks or the black ones? If your light is on when the switch is in the left position, then the switch block on that side is a NC. Did you flip the block when attaching it. The yellow ones have a red side(NC) and a green side(NO). Sounds like the NC side is wired. On your three way when the switch is in the middle it should not change the contact blocks, so they both should be open. This iis a contact block with green on both sides.

milldoggy · Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 569 Location: Pottstown, PA

Pic of the door and back plate might help.

longarmbrewing · Joined: 16 Dec 2010 Posts: 74 Location: WA

I have the Yellow CB. One side red one side green. So you think my wiring is all backwards then?

milldoggy · Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 569 Location: Pottstown, PA

Sounds like it, are you using the interlock? If not is the red side or the green side wired on the pumps?

milldoggy · Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 569 Location: Pottstown, PA

As for the omega, where is your power or hot wire attached to and coming from, same for neutral.

longarmbrewing · Joined: 16 Dec 2010 Posts: 74 Location: WA

Nope no interlock yet. I have the parts but I am at the I just want something to be done point. That and I need more yellow CB's to make the interlock.

I'm still stumped for sure on the timer. I've tripple checked the wires and everything else in the chain is getting juice.

milldoggy · Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 569 Location: Pottstown, PA

Power is coming in on 10 and the neutral is on 6. You could create a new hot and neutral wire and run them to the buses to test if you jumps are bad. Check your jumps on the bus and pids. Have you tested the voltage of 10 and 6?

I used the Auber timer, but looking at the wiring of the omega, does the neutral path reset the timer? Looks like when you press the button, it changes the neutral of the timer from 6 to 7.

Btw, you only need 1 NC/NC block for interlock with the yellow Cb's, this goes on the 3 way.

longarmbrewing · Joined: 16 Dec 2010 Posts: 74 Location: WA

Power is coming in on 10 from 13 on the HLT. The nuetral is going out via via 6 to the reset button and from the reset I have it going through the power light and then to the nuetral bus.

milldoggy · Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 569 Location: Pottstown, PA

If you press the reset, does the timer turn on? The neutral should be going to the bus from 6, possibly jumped through the reset, 7 should be on the other side of the switch.

milldoggy · Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 569 Location: Pottstown, PA

Oh, what side of the reset is wired, red or green?

milldoggy · Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 569 Location: Pottstown, PA

Last thing, did you attach the timer contact block correctly, is 1 where 1 should be or is it rotated from Kal pic?

longarmbrewing · Joined: 16 Dec 2010 Posts: 74 Location: WA

The reset doesn't bring the power up. With the switch on or off. I think next I will try a seperate nuetral back to the bus rather than via the power light.

As for the 3 way switch I fliped the CB to see if that was the issue and now this are just swapped. The Boil light is on vs the HLT.

milldoggy · Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 569 Location: Pottstown, PA

That means that side is a NC(red plastics ) block, again, are both side green? Look inside the block relays, is the plastic that moves the metals contacts and springs green or red? The three way switch has a different block than the rest, did you mix up the contact blocks?

longarmbrewing · Joined: 16 Dec 2010 Posts: 74 Location: WA

Here is are photos of both situations.

milldoggy · Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 569 Location: Pottstown, PA

Your contact block on the 3 way is incorrect, should be green and green, so open and open.

longarmbrewing · Joined: 16 Dec 2010 Posts: 74 Location: WA

Ok that is an easy fix. Sucks that they shipped the wrong block though.

Any more thoughts on the timer now that there is a photo?

Sparky · Posted: Mon Mar 14, 2011 4:51 am Post subject:

Panel looks great, BTW......