My panel proposal submitted for comment

Burglar · Joined: 11 Feb 2011 Posts: 56 Location: Detroit

I'm doing a big brew in a bag setup which I plan to upgrade to a single pump HERMS or RIMS at a later date. Take a look at my first draft of how I set up my panel and see if it makes sense to you:

My box is kind of small, but it was free so I won't complain.

Thanks!

crush · Joined: 28 Dec 2010 Posts: 706 Location: Telemark, Norway

Hehe! I like the mushroom button! I was going to get one of those!

With space being at a premium, maybe you can do away with the volt and amp meters? They look nice, but functionally they add little to the panel. (But since you have them, I imagine you want to use them!)

Where does the alarm signal come from? When you upgrade with a HERMS pid, will you need an additional switch for the alarm?

I would put the element selector next to the lamps, since they are close in function - the switch selects and the lamps show what is selected. Alternatively, since you don't have lamps for the pump switch, but are using labels, you could also do away with the element lamps too, if you want to save space. If you go for having lamp indicators, try to be consistent, and have one also for the pump. So there's a basic rule, turn something on and a lamp lights up! Might seem silly, but it will make the panel much more usable!

I realize this is just a rough mockup, but you might want to tweak the layout a bit. The lamps could probably move down a touch, and the alarm on/off switch in line with the other switches. With such a small space, a grid layout is usually simplest. An organic layout needs more space to flow (and more elements.)

Hope this helps!

Burglar · Joined: 11 Feb 2011 Posts: 56 Location: Detroit

All my switches / lights I got from a lab liquidation, so I need to make them work. Lighted switches would have been perfect as would save a ton of real estate. Also a three position switch would knock out the need for an " element arm" switch.

I like moving the element lamps up - much cleaner. I think I'll pack the switches a little closer too, as I won't need to operate them with gloves on. I'll pick up another pair of lights for the pump and alarm - and totally cop out by putting those off until upgrade time.

I'll post a second try a little later.

silverspoons · Joined: 21 Dec 2010 Posts: 555 Location: Webster NY

Remember your receptacles on the bottom of your box extend in a ways, i think your pump on switch might interfer with these, so do a layout with your receptacles held on place.

silverspoons

Burglar · Joined: 11 Feb 2011 Posts: 56 Location: Detroit

2nd draft:

Moved the timer to the middle, and considered the whole right side where the latch is as dead space. Used Kal's alarm switch setup, as having only one switch would be an alarm programming nightmare. Leaves space on the bottom for my future pump switch, or even an upgrade to two if I use lighted switches.

My box is 16x12x7, so I'm using flush mount receptacles to save a little space, and the power in is going to be a permanent cord to save even more. I'm also going to put the power outs / probe inputs on the left side, and the power in on the right so we can set the box down on a table.

I'm pretty happy with this setup, I think I'm going to go with this. Any last comments before I get the drill working?

silverspoons · Joined: 21 Dec 2010 Posts: 555 Location: Webster NY

Bulgar

also measure your depth.. the PID go pretty deep and you don't want them to interfere with your relays. they go about 4" deep and your relays are about about 2". you'll loose 1/2" for the back plate. so you might want to layout your relays so they won't be near the PIDs.

silverspoons

**kal** · Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2011 1:58 pm Post subject:

Control panel ergonomics 101:

- Create grids and line things up. Your new one's much better than the original. The original had the items in the bottom half placed what appears to be randomly.

- Put tags on the same side for each item (not some above, some below). I break this rule on mine in one spot with the pump tags covering both the light and the switch, but it works because of the spacing.

- Put enough space between the items so that whne you do install the tags it's immediately obvious whether the tag is for the control above or below it (ie: it's closer to the item it talks about).

- Power's usually best somewhere towards the top left corner.

- Tags should be self describing as to how the control or item is used. "HERMS alarm" doesn't describe how to use the switch. It doesn't tell that one side is off and the other on or which side is which. See how I did mine. I'd suggest doing the same. The fact that the switches are below the PIDs which are labelled makes the fact that it's an alarm for the BOIl/MLT/HLT/TIMER self-describing. This lets you then use the alarm switch tags to explain how the alarm switches are used.

Long story short: Someone familar with the process involved (in this case brewing) should be able to look at the equipment you have, then look at the control panel. How the panel's organized and tagged should make it intuatively obvious as to how it's used at first glance.

Kal

Burglar · Joined: 11 Feb 2011 Posts: 56 Location: Detroit

Ha, my labels are MS Painted onto the photos...

**kal** · Posted: Sun Mar 13, 2011 7:04 pm Post subject:

Burglar · Joined: 11 Feb 2011 Posts: 56 Location: Detroit

I could think about it all day OR:

Darn bits wandered slightly when using a hand drill, so no chance of me being a poster child.

Thanks for your help all, way cleaner and more professional than my first draft. The panel makes sense to both of its users, so I guess that's what counts.

I'm not equipped to tackle the DIN or meter holes, so I'll get those done for me at work - then off to paint. Then I get to organize all the goodies inside, and finally what I am really looking forward to - wiring!

crush · Joined: 28 Dec 2010 Posts: 706 Location: Telemark, Norway

Wow! Hat's off to you for getting right in and going for it!