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Interlock wiring question
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happysacbrewing



Joined: 20 Jan 2011
Posts: 34
Location: Edgewater, MD


PostLink    Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 12:38 am    Post subject: Interlock wiring question Reply with quote


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I am including two switches in my panel that switch 12V DC circuits. If possible I would like to include them in the interlock so that they have to be in the off position before the power comes on. I know that 120V AC runs through all the NC blocks on the switches to the interlock. Is it a problem to have 120 AC running through the NC block on the switch and 12VDC running through the NO block on the same switch? I think it isn't a problem, I just want to be sure. Thanks.

Dan
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milldoggy



Joined: 23 Dec 2010
Posts: 570
Location: Pottstown, PA


PostLink    Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 1:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Might I asked what the 12 v dc are running?
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milldoggy



Joined: 23 Dec 2010
Posts: 570
Location: Pottstown, PA


PostLink    Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 1:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Might I asked what the 12 v dc are running?
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milldoggy



Joined: 23 Dec 2010
Posts: 570
Location: Pottstown, PA


PostLink    Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 1:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Might I asked what the 12 v dc are running?
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milldoggy



Joined: 23 Dec 2010
Posts: 570
Location: Pottstown, PA


PostLink    Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 1:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Edit: android phone triple posted

Last edited by milldoggy on Sat Feb 12, 2011 3:18 pm; edited 1 time in total
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happysacbrewing



Joined: 20 Jan 2011
Posts: 34
Location: Edgewater, MD


PostLink    Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 2:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sure.

The first one is an HLT fill circuit described in this thread http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=24669

The second one is is a circuit that controls a valve that opens or closes the cooling water to the plate chiller. Same circuit design as the HLT fill circuit except there is no need for a float switch on that circuit. I am also adding a PID and additional RTD probe to monitor the temp on the outlet side of the wort chiller. It will be wired the same as the PID and temp probe on the BK, but that is not part of the DC control circuit for the valve.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10209
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 3:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shouldn't be a problem as long as you keep the two completely isolated and the contact blocks are rated for whatever voltage/current you're using.

Kal

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happysacbrewing



Joined: 20 Jan 2011
Posts: 34
Location: Edgewater, MD


PostLink    Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 4:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Kal. That is exactly what I was hoping. I am using the same switches you use with the contact blocks that are rated to 400V and 10A, so that won't be a problem. Even though the contact blocks are physically next to each other on the back of the actuator, they appear to me to be completely isolated from each other electrically, so I shouldn't have to do anything else to keep them isolated, right? Thanks again.

Dan
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10209
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 4:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Correct. They are 100% independant switches.

Kal

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longarmbrewing



Joined: 16 Dec 2010
Posts: 74
Location: WA


PostLink    Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2011 4:25 pm    Post subject: .. Reply with quote

Not to thread jack here but will the new plastic switches work for this project? It seems that the ebay seller no longer carried the switch style Kal used so there is no place to plug in the NC contact blocks.
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milldoggy



Joined: 23 Dec 2010
Posts: 570
Location: Pottstown, PA


PostLink    Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2011 4:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, you need to get a NC/NC block for the back of the element switch. The yellow blocks are typically NO/NC, so you are all set for the interlock except the element switch.
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
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Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2011 4:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good question.

Definitely works... I just tried it! I took two contact blocks off one switch and stuck'em on another:



(How's that for service!) Smile

Kal

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milldoggy



Joined: 23 Dec 2010
Posts: 570
Location: Pottstown, PA


PostLink    Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2011 4:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used all these in my build. They work, but my one pump switch sticks though. Seems to be an issue with switch not the block.
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milldoggy



Joined: 23 Dec 2010
Posts: 570
Location: Pottstown, PA


PostLink    Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2011 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Funny, you can your post in the screen shot, seems like you edited it Smile
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longarmbrewing



Joined: 16 Dec 2010
Posts: 74
Location: WA


PostLink    Posted: Thu Feb 24, 2011 4:53 pm    Post subject: .. Reply with quote

Thanks guys. I will have to take a look when I get back from vacation so I can wrap my head around the new format.
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longarmbrewing



Joined: 16 Dec 2010
Posts: 74
Location: WA


PostLink    Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 3:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok so I have this correct. 14 gauge hot no longer goes from 3 on the NO to the right side of the "Power in Relay" but it goes into pin 8 on the interlock and then out from 3 on the interlock to the relay?
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pola0502ds



Joined: 14 Mar 2011
Posts: 300
Location: poland, Ohio


PostLink    Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 10:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
Good question.

Definitely works... I just tried it! I took two contact blocks off one switch and stuck'em on another:



(How's that for service!) Smile

Kal


Kal,

The switches in your picture apear to be the same type of switches I used. I know the ones in your control panel are different and I have been having a hard time finding extra contact blocks that match up with those switches. Do you know if they sell them? The switches were cheap enough I could just buy more and steal them from them.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10209
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 1:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

longarmbrewing wrote:
Ok so I have this correct. 14 gauge hot no longer goes from 3 on the NO to the right side of the "Power in Relay" but it goes into pin 8 on the interlock and then out from 3 on the interlock to the relay?

Sorry, I don't really follow what you're asking exactly so I'd rather not say "yes" or "no". I documented exactly what to do here: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-safe-start-interlock?page=4

So whatever I said to do there is what you need to do. Wink

Kal

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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10209
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 1:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

pola0502ds wrote:
The switches in your picture apear to be the same type of switches I used. I know the ones in your control panel are different and I have been having a hard time finding extra contact blocks that match up with those switches. Do you know if they sell them? The switches were cheap enough I could just buy more and steal them from them.

I have no idea if they sell them. Follow this link to visit their eBay store and check: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=11&pub=5574906687&toolid=10001&campid=5336652980&customid=&icep_store=Electrical-Replacement-Parts&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg

Kal

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Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
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pola0502ds



Joined: 14 Mar 2011
Posts: 300
Location: poland, Ohio


PostLink    Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2011 2:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This may be helpful to some, my system is all 120v so the switchhes I purchasred are linked below;

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574906687&toolid=10001&campid=5336652980&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Fws%2FeBayISAPI.dll%3FViewItem%26item%3D390203943186%26ssPageName%3DSTRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT

(Link updated to support our site - Kal)

They are labeled as: PBC-SS22PMA-2 2 POSITION MAINTAINED SELECTOR SWITCH

I contacted Electrical parts after kal provided that link to confirm they do sell them and asked for links to all 3 contact blocks that will work for this specific switch and if you go to ebay and search for the part number listed below, you will find what you need. Either 2 NO ,2 NC, and 1 NC 1NO are listed. Even though all 3 are not needed I listed them just incase someone needs a replacement.

2 NO - 400121904647
1 NO 1 NC - 130397253515
2 NC - 400126094461

Hope this may be useful.
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