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crush
Joined: 28 Dec 2010 Posts: 706 Location: Telemark, Norway
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 2:14 am Post subject: |
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Says it's a 4500W element, not 5500W. It's low density instead of ultra-low density.
To quote my site:
Quote: | There is however one very good reason to use ULWD elements over regular elements: They won't break if fired up "dry" (not immersed in water). When a regular element is fired up "dry" the element will pop fairly quickly (usually before you notice your mistake!) as there is no water to dissipate the heat. While nobody means to fire up an element by mistake, mistakes do happen. Using ULWD elements provides you with a little bit of insurance against these human errors. Brew long enough and one day you will forget that you have your element switch in the on position when you first fire up your control panel. Popping an element is about the last thing you want given that you've likely already milled your grain and have everything ready to go. |
AFAIK all water heater elements use the same size lock nut.
Kal
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My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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crush
Joined: 28 Dec 2010 Posts: 706 Location: Telemark, Norway
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Münsterjeger
Joined: 31 Dec 2010 Posts: 17 Location: Vestfold, Norway
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Link Posted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 9:16 am Post subject: |
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I am thinking of an idea for us who use normal elements that would break if dry-fired.
Putting this between the PID and SSR.
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brewmcq
Joined: 31 Dec 2010 Posts: 123 Location: Northern Maine
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 2:48 pm Post subject: |
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Interesting. It's indeed the same watts/inch like the ones I use, but it doesn't have the same zigzag pattern. For it to be 50W/inch the total length has to be the same which probably means it's longer than the zigzag one I use (?) so be careful to make sure it fits. The order page doesn't mention length. Maybe it's longer?
The float switch is an interesting idea. All things said and done, I try and limit the number of cables to/from the kettle to simplify connecting/reconnecting when cleaning the boil kettle (MLT would be fine). I wonder how easy it would be to clean too and if that float switch would be ok in boiling wort.
Personally I wouldn't worry too much about the fact that higher density elements can be damaged when fired dry. With my new safe start interlock on the control panel the odds of firing up an element are greatly reduced.
Given all the other things that need to be built, I'd just wait a few days and then check back to see if the original elements are available again. I think this site has helped sell them out in many places. They should be back in stock soon I'd imagine. I had the same issue with many of the parts I used...
Kal
_________________ Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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JTylerSingletary
Joined: 02 Jan 2011 Posts: 1 Location: Tampa, Florida
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Link Posted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 5:15 pm Post subject: |
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Münsterjeger wrote: | I am thinking of an idea for us who use normal elements that would break if dry-fired.
Putting this between the PID and SSR. |
Where would you mount this? Just above the top of the element, I'm guessing? And, to what does the wiring attach to? The link is very indescriptive. Thanks.
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Münsterjeger
Joined: 31 Dec 2010 Posts: 17 Location: Vestfold, Norway
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Link Posted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 6:43 pm Post subject: |
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I would mount this inside the kettle wall.
Wiring would simplified be on for instance "+" on the PID and "+" on the SSR. Resulting that the SSR gets runing voltage only when liquid is in the kettle.
But as Kal says, the 8-pin safety relay is really a good system preventing this from happening. Though I havent found this for 240V on e-bay...
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crush
Joined: 28 Dec 2010 Posts: 706 Location: Telemark, Norway
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Link Posted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 7:19 pm Post subject: |
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Münsterjeger wrote: | I am thinking of an idea for us who use normal elements that would break if dry-fired.
Putting this between the PID and SSR. |
Hehe, I had exactly the same thought! I agree with Kal about the excess of cables and the relatively small chances of this happening, but for those that want to, this could perhaps be bundled with the thermometer cable to cut down on the spaghetti. (I forget, is the thermometer using all 3 pins on the XLR connector? If it is, just add new XLR connector at the end, either way, there is just one cord coming from the kettle.)
Watch out though, that particular float switch is rated to 100V. Breakdown voltage is 220V which means if you connect it up to your control panel at 220-240V, the switch will appear permanently closed (current flows) and it may be damaged. If you have 12-24V in there, you could of course use that. Alternatively, there are other SS float switches rated to 220V (breakdown at 300V) from various sellers on ebay, although I didn't see one rated for 230V with the right angle bend. Let me know if you find one!
I was thinking of using these SS float switches to control the pump for automated fly sparging, so the flow rates don't have to be exact. But that raises more questions than answers, so I'll save that for another day!
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crush
Joined: 28 Dec 2010 Posts: 706 Location: Telemark, Norway
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Link Posted: Sun Jan 02, 2011 7:44 pm Post subject: |
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Münsterjeger wrote: | I would mount this inside the kettle wall.
Wiring would simplified be on for instance "+" on the PID and "+" on the SSR. Resulting that the SSR gets runing voltage only when liquid is in the kettle.
But as Kal says, the 8-pin safety relay is really a good system preventing this from happening. Though I havent found this for 240V on e-bay... |
There is a mechanical relay already in the circuit controlling each element, you could also connect it to the coil on that, in series with the connection to one of the contact blocks on the 3 position selector. (Assuming the float is normally open and closed when water is present.) I think it amounts to the same thing, but organization-wise, it keeps the safety aspects in one area, separate from the control aspects.
I think you can use any of the 8-pin or 11-pin relay for the safe start interlock, as long as it's min of 2 pole 2 throw (DPDT).
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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crush
Joined: 28 Dec 2010 Posts: 706 Location: Telemark, Norway
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Link Posted: Mon Jan 03, 2011 7:51 pm Post subject: |
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kal wrote: | crush wrote: | I forget, is the thermometer using all 3 pins on the XLR connector? |
Yes. RTD's use 3 wires.
Kal |
They do, ok, thanks. Hehe! "Thermometer".... I haven't gotten quite used to the lingo yet. Temperature probe...temperature probe...
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brewmcq
Joined: 31 Dec 2010 Posts: 123 Location: Northern Maine
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milldoggy
Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 569 Location: Pottstown, PA
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brewmcq
Joined: 31 Dec 2010 Posts: 123 Location: Northern Maine
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Link Posted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 2:11 pm Post subject: |
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Quote: | Quantity in Stock:
(Out of Stock) |
Bummer.
I was looking for options on Amazon to help out Kal, which I'll do unless I can get something locally, which is highly improbable considering I live in the middle of nowhere.. lol
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milldoggy
Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 569 Location: Pottstown, PA
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brewmcq
Joined: 31 Dec 2010 Posts: 123 Location: Northern Maine
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Link Posted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 2:14 pm Post subject: |
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LOL.. I just posted that one.
Since I'm going to be sticking with ~5 gal batches, I'm thinking that a 240vac 4500w ULWD element will serve my purposes fine for now. As I upgrade, of course, I'll be happy to move to the higher-watt elements.
Edited to add:
Of course, if I don't get off my lazy butt and start cleaning the basement, I'm not going to have a brewery, so off the forums and into the cellar with me!
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milldoggy
Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 569 Location: Pottstown, PA
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Link Posted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 2:17 pm Post subject: |
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wish I was home and working on mine, stupid job, making me work
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milldoggy
Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 569 Location: Pottstown, PA
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Link Posted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 2:21 pm Post subject: |
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while on the topic of elements, anyone try using a 1" half coupler with these? I am using keggles and will have the fitting welded on. I was going to half a 1" NPS welded on, but I figured I try a 1" half NPT coupler. Should be here tomorrow, so I can try and see how it threads, just wondering if anyone else tried. I am sure I could search HBT and find the answer, but I am being lazy.
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brewmcq
Joined: 31 Dec 2010 Posts: 123 Location: Northern Maine
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Link Posted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 3:12 pm Post subject: |
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milldoggy wrote: | wish I was home and working on mine, stupid job, making me work |
No fear.. when I work, I work a crapload of hours, then have a whole bunch of days off. EMS = Earn Money Sleeping. LOL
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