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goatbrewer
Joined: 04 Jan 2011 Posts: 14 Location: Walla Walla
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Link Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 6:14 pm Post subject: Volt meter wiring |
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I'm having a little trouble wiring the volt meter that I received. The one I have has 5 pins instead of the 4 that are illustrated on Kal's site. I've attached a link that illustrates the label on the back of my meter. Pin position 4 and 5 is clear to me. It is the first 3 positions that I'm having difficulty with. What do the 2 squiggles on either side of the IN represent and what does the IN represent?
Cheers!
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11123 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 6:40 pm Post subject: |
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Strange that they changed it! I bet the one labelled "IN" is actually not connected. The two AC lines go to pins 1 and 3, DC power to 4 and 5.
They usually have manuals online that show you sample wiring diagrams. You may want to check just to be sure.
You can also email them. They responded pretty fast to my questions when I blew up both my volt and amp meters the first time around as they weren't clear in their manual about the power supply requirements.
Kal
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My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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goatbrewer
Joined: 04 Jan 2011 Posts: 14 Location: Walla Walla
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Link Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 8:31 pm Post subject: |
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Yeah, I've looked at the manual online. I wouldn't say that it is the clearest manual that I've seen but one diagram I found had a + for pin 1, an IN for pin 2 and a - for pin 3 with the legend indicating that pin 2 was not connected. I am willing to go with this diagram but I was just a little baffled by the IN label for pin 2. http://www.sure-electronics.net/measure,tools/panelmeter%20Vot-new.pdf So If I go by the manual that sure electronics has on their site would the signal in + for DC go to the hot bus or would it go to the relay?
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11123 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 8:39 pm Post subject: |
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Doesn't matter. It's AC. Put one hot side on pin 1, the other on pin 3. Which way you do it won't matter. It only matters if you're measuring DC (which is what the manual's trying to say in its own obscure way.)
Kal
_________________ Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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goatbrewer
Joined: 04 Jan 2011 Posts: 14 Location: Walla Walla
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Link Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 9:00 pm Post subject: |
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Perfect! Thanks Kal!
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Castermmt
Joined: 03 Jan 2011 Posts: 863 Location: Lowell, In
Drinking: Steelhead Porter, Alt-Toids, Hefty-Weizen, Terry's Kolsch, African Amber, Pumpkin Ale, Double Dog Ale
Working on: Janet's Brown Ale, Terry's Kolsch, Pilsner
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Link Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 3:24 am Post subject: |
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My meter came the same set up. Did you have to install it upside down? It Looks like it may be upside down as the word "MINLIN" on the face appears to upside down. This thread was very helpful, Thanks
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Spike Innovations TheElectricBrewery.com manufacturer
Joined: 26 Feb 2011 Posts: 245 Location: ME
Working on: Your Brewery!
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Link Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 4:26 am Post subject: |
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Castermmt wrote: | My meter came the same set up. Did you have to install it upside down? It Looks like it may be upside down as the word "MINLIN" on the face appears to upside down. This thread was very helpful, Thanks |
While technically from the back the meter is "upside down," the front is actually right side up. For some reason they stuck the sticker on backwards, or wired the whole thing upside down. Who knows? The Minlin that is raised on the front of the meter should be right side up.
I highly recommend testing these units before you silicone them in permanently. This allows you the flexibility of taking the meter out if there are any problems right away.
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Castermmt
Joined: 03 Jan 2011 Posts: 863 Location: Lowell, In
Drinking: Steelhead Porter, Alt-Toids, Hefty-Weizen, Terry's Kolsch, African Amber, Pumpkin Ale, Double Dog Ale
Working on: Janet's Brown Ale, Terry's Kolsch, Pilsner
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Link Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 4:29 am Post subject: |
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Spike, Thanks for the quick reply. Good advise on waiting to apply the sealant. Thanks
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milldoggy
Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 569 Location: Pottstown, PA
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Link Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 10:53 am Post subject: |
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What does the adjustment screw in these meters do?
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cardmechanic
Joined: 16 Feb 2011 Posts: 25 Location: Virginia
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Link Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 7:01 pm Post subject: |
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milldoggy wrote: | What does the adjustment screw in these meters do? |
That adjustment screw is on a potientiometer for fine tuning the calibration. I would suggest not messing with it as the cal from factory is more than efficient for this use.
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Sparky
Joined: 17 Dec 2010 Posts: 217 Location: Muir Beach, California
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Link Posted: Fri Mar 11, 2011 6:47 pm Post subject: |
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How is everyone doing with their volt/amp meters? Looks like lots of posts with problems on these things. I am only asking since I consider this "bling" (flashy extras) on the panel and may give it the nix when building mine.
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rosenjm
Joined: 21 Dec 2010 Posts: 249 Location: Ballston Spa, NY
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Link Posted: Fri Mar 11, 2011 8:32 pm Post subject: |
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No offence to Kal's wonderful design, but if I were to do it over agin I would omit the volt/amp meters. They look cool, but that is about as far as their usefulness goes. I suppose you might see indications of a failing element, or pump on the amp meter, but there are enough symptoms that you wouldn't "need" them. The ONLY issues I had with building the control panel were with the meters, although that seems to be a function of getting bad meters from the supplier vice any design or build flaw.
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