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Volt meter wiring

 
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goatbrewer




Joined: 04 Jan 2011
Posts: 14
Location: Walla Walla


PostLink    Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 6:14 pm    Post subject: Volt meter wiring Reply with quote


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I'm having a little trouble wiring the volt meter that I received. The one I have has 5 pins instead of the 4 that are illustrated on Kal's site. I've attached a link that illustrates the label on the back of my meter. Pin position 4 and 5 is clear to me. It is the first 3 positions that I'm having difficulty with. What do the 2 squiggles on either side of the IN represent and what does the IN represent?



Cheers!
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11123
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 6:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Strange that they changed it! I bet the one labelled "IN" is actually not connected. The two AC lines go to pins 1 and 3, DC power to 4 and 5.

They usually have manuals online that show you sample wiring diagrams. You may want to check just to be sure.

You can also email them. They responded pretty fast to my questions when I blew up both my volt and amp meters the first time around as they weren't clear in their manual about the power supply requirements. Wink

Kal

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goatbrewer




Joined: 04 Jan 2011
Posts: 14
Location: Walla Walla


PostLink    Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 8:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, I've looked at the manual online. I wouldn't say that it is the clearest manual that I've seen but one diagram I found had a + for pin 1, an IN for pin 2 and a - for pin 3 with the legend indicating that pin 2 was not connected. I am willing to go with this diagram but I was just a little baffled by the IN label for pin 2. http://www.sure-electronics.net/measure,tools/panelmeter%20Vot-new.pdf So If I go by the manual that sure electronics has on their site would the signal in + for DC go to the hot bus or would it go to the relay?
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11123
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 8:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Doesn't matter. It's AC. Put one hot side on pin 1, the other on pin 3. Which way you do it won't matter. It only matters if you're measuring DC (which is what the manual's trying to say in its own obscure way.) Wink

Kal

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goatbrewer




Joined: 04 Jan 2011
Posts: 14
Location: Walla Walla


PostLink    Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 9:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Perfect! Thanks Kal!
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Castermmt




Joined: 03 Jan 2011
Posts: 863
Location: Lowell, In

Drinking: Steelhead Porter, Alt-Toids, Hefty-Weizen, Terry's Kolsch, African Amber, Pumpkin Ale, Double Dog Ale

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PostLink    Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 3:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My meter came the same set up. Did you have to install it upside down? It Looks like it may be upside down as the word "MINLIN" on the face appears to upside down. This thread was very helpful, Thanks
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Spike Innovations
TheElectricBrewery.com manufacturer



Joined: 26 Feb 2011
Posts: 245
Location: ME

Working on: Your Brewery!


PostLink    Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 4:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Castermmt wrote:
My meter came the same set up. Did you have to install it upside down? It Looks like it may be upside down as the word "MINLIN" on the face appears to upside down. This thread was very helpful, Thanks


While technically from the back the meter is "upside down," the front is actually right side up. For some reason they stuck the sticker on backwards, or wired the whole thing upside down. Who knows? The Minlin that is raised on the front of the meter should be right side up.

I highly recommend testing these units before you silicone them in permanently. This allows you the flexibility of taking the meter out if there are any problems right away.

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Castermmt




Joined: 03 Jan 2011
Posts: 863
Location: Lowell, In

Drinking: Steelhead Porter, Alt-Toids, Hefty-Weizen, Terry's Kolsch, African Amber, Pumpkin Ale, Double Dog Ale

Working on: Janet's Brown Ale, Terry's Kolsch, Pilsner


PostLink    Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 4:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spike, Thanks for the quick reply. Good advise on waiting to apply the sealant. Thanks
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milldoggy




Joined: 23 Dec 2010
Posts: 569
Location: Pottstown, PA


PostLink    Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 10:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What does the adjustment screw in these meters do?
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cardmechanic




Joined: 16 Feb 2011
Posts: 25
Location: Virginia


PostLink    Posted: Wed Mar 09, 2011 7:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

milldoggy wrote:
What does the adjustment screw in these meters do?


That adjustment screw is on a potientiometer for fine tuning the calibration. I would suggest not messing with it as the cal from factory is more than efficient for this use.
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Sparky




Joined: 17 Dec 2010
Posts: 217
Location: Muir Beach, California


PostLink    Posted: Fri Mar 11, 2011 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How is everyone doing with their volt/amp meters? Looks like lots of posts with problems on these things. I am only asking since I consider this "bling" (flashy extras) on the panel and may give it the nix when building mine.
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rosenjm




Joined: 21 Dec 2010
Posts: 249
Location: Ballston Spa, NY


PostLink    Posted: Fri Mar 11, 2011 8:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No offence to Kal's wonderful design, but if I were to do it over agin I would omit the volt/amp meters. They look cool, but that is about as far as their usefulness goes. I suppose you might see indications of a failing element, or pump on the amp meter, but there are enough symptoms that you wouldn't "need" them. The ONLY issues I had with building the control panel were with the meters, although that seems to be a function of getting bad meters from the supplier vice any design or build flaw.
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