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Melting down - plug ends and element ends

 
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codfishhead




Joined: 20 Nov 2019
Posts: 5



PostLink    Posted: Wed Jan 26, 2022 9:02 pm    Post subject: Melting down - plug ends and element ends Reply with quote


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1.5 tri clamp 5500w 240v elements (Dernord SS) with twist plugs ends. Blichmann control unit.
Elements as well as the plug ends are melting. Not at the same time. Not all the time. Normally one or the other has issues. I replaced the Blichmann plug ends and still happens. I tried 80 percent power and 100 with same results. Coming off a 30 amp double breaker.

After reading on here I may have issues per Im sanding the plug ends to clean them because theyre getting burnt. Probably not the best solution especially since its not lasting. The elements themselves are clean and shiny.

After melting down several times Im thinking I need to start with all new components. Also thinking I should eliminate the plug ends wiring directly to the elements. I have some questions and would love any and all feedback for a solution. Im mechanical. Not so much electrical.

Questions:
Looks like Im going to need an adaptor for the threaded elements to a 1.5 tri clamp.
Question, are all thread sizes the same on the 5500w elements? Any link to an adaptor?

My Blichmann cords are 3 wires. To connect to the heating elements does it matter which wire goes where? I see two screws and a ground. Does hot need to go to one side or the other? Told you Im not electrical lol

Elements? Which ones are best and what ones do I stay clear of?

Anyone know of any issues with Blichmann cords? Should I be replacing them as well?

Very much appreciate any and all help.

Thank you

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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10932
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Wed Jan 26, 2022 9:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi!

You're not using any of our products and haven't provided pictures either so it's a bit difficult to assist but I'll try but my response may be somewhat generic in spots. Sorry about that!

You're on the right track on using quality plugs. We only use and sell tough industrial grade nylon locking plug for safety instead of the cheap molded rubber plugs many use to save cost as you're seeing here. Our plugs/receptacles are here:
https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/collections/heating-elements

I personally do not like disconnects at the kettle for this reason as well. It's another point where failure can occur, and also means that water can get in during a boilover. IMHO that's dangerous. For this reason we only offer heating element assemblies that are 100% waterproof without kettle side disconnects.

codfishhead wrote:
Looks like Im going to need an adaptor for the threaded elements to a 1.5 tri clamp. Question, are all thread sizes the same on the 5500w elements? Any link to an adaptor?

Most water heater style heating elements are 1" NPS. You should confirm with whoever you purchased your heating elements from to be sure. They would be able to suggest adapters as well that will work. We do offer 1" NPS to TC adapters in two TC sizes but only when purchased with one of our heating elements. That's because there's variations between one heating element and another unfortunately so we carefully match them to get sets that work (we don't sell them separately).

Quote:
My Blichmann cords are 3 wires. To connect to the heating elements does it matter which wire goes where? I see two screws and a ground. Does hot need to go to one side or the other?

Ground needs to go to ground but the other two should not matter. You can confirm with Blichmann to be sure.

Quote:
Elements? Which ones are best and what ones do I stay clear of?

Not to toot our own horn again but I recommend ours here:
https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/collections/heating-elements

We only use premium 804 stainless steel Camco heating elements specifically made for brewing. The grey elements we use are stronger, lighter and more corrosion resistant than shiny 304/316 stainless steel elements and will not rust when left in water for extended periods.

Quote:
Anyone know of any issues with Blichmann cords? Should I be replacing them as well?

The actual cord minus the connecting ends? Unless undersized (very doubtful) or damaged they should be fine. There are different quality levels however. We only use durable SJEOOW wire which features a thermoplastic elastomer jacket which means that the cable remains more flexible than a standard (less expensive) cord. Rated to 300 volts and from -50 to 105 degrees Celsius. Our cords are designed for use in harsh environments where the highest degree for oil/water/weather resistance and extended service life are essential. Many others will use less expensive cord.
Our bare cord is here:
https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/collections/heating-elements/products/10-gauge-3-conductor-wire-oil-water-resistant-rubber-coating-rated-for-outdoor-use
We also use expandable braided sleeving to further protect the cord. This stuff here:
https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/collections/heating-elements/products/1-2-expandable-braided-sleeving-carbon-black

Available pre-assembled too (just the cord, plug, sleeving, heatshrink):
https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/collections/heating-elements/products/heating-element-cord-and-plug-assembly

Cheers!

Kal

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codfishhead




Joined: 20 Nov 2019
Posts: 5



PostLink    Posted: Wed Jan 26, 2022 11:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you Kal

As for the cord I was just wondering if the backup did any damage. The wires look fine. I'll use the cords to your products.

My system has three 1.5" tri clamp inputs for elements. I need three 5500w element setups.

How do I order what I need from you?

Thx again

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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10932
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jan 27, 2022 12:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

codfishhead wrote:
As for the cord I was just wondering if the backup did any damage.

Sorry, I'm not sure what you mean by "backup". Can you explain?

Quote:
My system has three 1.5" tri clamp inputs for elements. I need three 5500w element setups. How do I order what I need from you?

All of our heating element products are here: https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/collections/heating-elements

If you wish to replace all of your heating elements completely from plug to element you can order pre-assembled units here:
https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/collections/heating-elements/products/heating-element-kit-pre-assembled

Make sure to choose the tri-clamp size you need, along with the 5500W element you want, and cord length you want.

Cheers!

Kal

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codfishhead




Joined: 20 Nov 2019
Posts: 5



PostLink    Posted: Thu Jan 27, 2022 12:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Electricity flow backing up producing heat was what I was at.

Thank you Kal

I'll order up and tell you how it works out.

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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10932
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jan 27, 2022 1:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah! Gotcha. If heat damaged the wires then replace. If not, it's probably fine. If there's any doubt, best to replace. Cheers!

Kal

_________________
Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
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codfishhead




Joined: 20 Nov 2019
Posts: 5



PostLink    Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2022 4:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did some reradings and found one side of a 220 outlet wall plug was only showing 124v while all others read 244.Phase out in the plug or breaker. I'm having an electrician come take a look.

I'm still going to upgrade to your setups.
thx again

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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10932
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2022 1:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

codfishhead wrote:
Did some reradings and found one side of a 220 outlet wall plug was only showing 124v while all others read 244.

Post a picture and show how exactly you measured for each (between which two points). I can let you know if it's normal. I'm assuming you're using a standard 30A dryer outlet.

You can also read here about how an outlet like that should measure:

https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/pages/control-panel-troubleshooting#My_control_panel_doesnt_turn_on_It_used_to_work_fine

In single phase homes such as in North America it's normal to measure 240V between the two HOT lines, 120V between a HOT line and neutral or ground, and 0V between neutral and ground.

Quote:
Phase out in the plug or breaker.

I'm assuming you're in North America. Homes here are only all single phase.

Cheers!

Kal

_________________
Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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