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Harvesting from Cans

 
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thedudebill




Joined: 18 Feb 2021
Posts: 14



PostLink    Posted: Tue Apr 13, 2021 2:49 pm    Post subject: Harvesting from Cans Reply with quote


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Am in the process of growing yeast started from the dregs of 4 cans of Alchemist -- trying to replicate the famed Conan strain on my own. Does anyone have any ballpark sense for how many cells you start with in the average can? Or how to get a ballpark for how much you have once you've done your first starter step and can see a decent layer at the bottom of your flask post cooling and refrigeration? I am pleased with the results so far, but feel I am flying seriously blind in terms of whether I'll be about right or massively under pitching when I brew on Sunday.
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Tue Apr 13, 2021 4:07 pm    Post subject: Re: Harvesting from Cans Reply with quote

Hi!

thedudebill wrote:
Does anyone have any ballpark sense for how many cells you start with in the average can?

I don't think that can be answered as just like in liquid yeast packs purchased directly the manufacturer, the amount of viable cells dies off over time. For example, a standard Wyeast and White Labs pack has 100B cells the day it's manufactured. Over time that drops close to zero. See my MAKING A YEAST STARTER guide for more details: https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/pages/making-a-yeast-starter

Now that said, I'd probably err on the side of caution if using yeast from a source you don't know much about and assume you have only 1B cells per can.

The other option is to just use fresh Conan yeast: https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/pages/white-labs-wlp095-burlington-ale-yeast

I always prefer fresh over used, especially if the yeast came from a high ABV beers like this. The results are more consistent. I've basically completely stopped repitching yeast or even making starters from "used" yeast as unless you're harvesting/growing in laboratory conditions where you can assess yeast health, I found the consistency went out the window. Today I always start with a new (sealed) pack from the manufacturer.

My 2 cents!

Cheers,

Kal

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thedudebill




Joined: 18 Feb 2021
Posts: 14



PostLink    Posted: Tue Apr 13, 2021 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That makes sense -- and yet crushes me slightly because I was feeling so virtuous when harvesting and then building up from the can! Funny you mention consistency, though, because I did notice a big drop off from the first time I did this to the second.

Do you have any thought on which commercial offering is the real deal when it comes to Conan? I see you linked to the White Labs Burlington ale yeast. I know Giga Yeast, Omega and Imperial all market their own version. Think they're all about the same?
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Tue Apr 13, 2021 8:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thedudebill wrote:
Do you have any thought on which commercial offering is the real deal when it comes to Conan? I see you linked to the White Labs Burlington ale yeast. I know Giga Yeast, Omega and Imperial all market their own version. Think they're all about the same?

I'm not sure about Giga/Omega/Imperial (never used them or researched them), but it's my understanding is that this White Labs yeast may be the conan strain: https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/pages/white-labs-wlp095-burlington-ale-yeast

Kal

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thedudebill




Joined: 18 Feb 2021
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PostLink    Posted: Thu Apr 15, 2021 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stepped the started to 2 litres last night and the yeast went off -- blew the foil off the top of the flask in the middle of the night. Is there any way to "test" for contamination? Any tell tale smells? Would it take some time to set in? I don't want to use it and contaminate an entire batch of Electric Hop Candy but also hate the idea of binning all that yeast!
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Thu Apr 15, 2021 9:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thedudebill wrote:
Is there any way to "test" for contamination? Any tell tale smells?

Brew a beer and see what happens. Wink

In all seriousness, don't worry about it. You don't work in a sterile environment. There's already other stuff in there. It's a race/numbers game: We pitch more healthy yeast that we want to overthrow anything bad floating around in the air.

Kal

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thedudebill




Joined: 18 Feb 2021
Posts: 14



PostLink    Posted: Thu Apr 15, 2021 11:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very true! That makes sense. Was already planning to split the batch and use London Ale 3 for the other half so will stick to plan. Thanks Kal!
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Fri Apr 16, 2021 11:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good luck with your brew day!

Kal

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Timothy_W
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PostLink    Posted: Fri Apr 16, 2021 1:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
thedudebill wrote:
Is there any way to "test" for contamination? Any tell tale smells?

Brew a beer and see what happens. Wink

In all seriousness, don't worry about it. You don't work in a sterile environment. There's already other stuff in there. It's a race/numbers game: We pitch more healthy yeast that we want to overthrow anything bad floating around in the air.

Kal


It's the same as growing plants. My wife grows orchids and all the time complains that our microflora is not suitable for them. Somewhere in Thailand, they grow like weeds practically, and my wife cowards every plant. It's the same with drinks, I suppose. If the recipe is adapted to our latitudes, everything will be fine. And if you try to cook an exotic that matures in a different microclimate and different microflora, it is already more difficult to predict the result.
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2021 12:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not really the same with brewing I'm afraid. You can make any style of beer anywhere in the world if you know what you're doing as you can adjust the water to be like anywhere in the world and the ingredients brewers use can be found everywhere.

For example, brewers around the world will use hops specific to New Zealand, USA, Germany, Slovenia, etc. In fact, there are many styles that you can't successfully replicate unless you use hops from those regions. When it comes to malt, I use continental 2-row from North America, and imported Weyermann Pilsner malt from Germany, and Maris Otter malt from Britain.

The good news is that all are available for most people to order locally. If you want to replicate certain styles you want to use the correct ingredients. Check out any of my recipes for some examples: https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/pages/recipes

My water adjustment guide then also explains how to adjust your water correctly for any style, sometimes this is to replicate how water will be in certain regions of the world: https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/pages/water-adjustment
For example, Czech lagers brewed with the soft (low mineral) water of Czechoslovakia, to English Burton-on-Trent ales and German Dortmund lagers brewed with hard (high mineral) water.

Kal

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We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
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