Return to TheElectricBrewery.com
  [ Shop ]   [ Building ]   [ Using ]   [ Recipes ]   [ Testimonials ]   [ Gallery ]   [ FAQ ]   [ About Us ]   [ Contact Us ]   [ Newsletter ]

Log inLog in   RegisterRegister   User Control PanelUser Control Panel   Private MessagesPrivate Messages   MembershipClub Memberships   SearchSearch   MemberlistMemberlist   Photo AlbumsPhoto Albums   Forum FAQForum FAQ

New elec brewer - induction plates - pot size - 2-vessel

 
Post new topic   Reply to topic   Printer-friendly view    TheElectricBrewery.com Forum Index -> Electric Brewing
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
Beavis




Joined: 24 Dec 2020
Posts: 4
Location: St Louis, MO


PostLink    Posted: Thu Dec 24, 2020 4:56 pm    Post subject: New elec brewer - induction plates - pot size - 2-vessel Reply with quote


        Register to remove this ad. It's free!
Howdy - experuenced all grain, propane, keg brewer here. Recently acquired an “indoor” space to brew and some cash to upgrade. Low level of electric , plumbing knowledge here though but have a buddy to help with that. Also, I have never used pumps but only dumped wort, etc while mashing sparging etc. Gonna setup a room with an electric system now. For five or ten gallon batches. Finally I have never used the LODO approach but intend to do so.

My concept is: 1) electric 2) two vessel with pump 3) considering induction plates for heating 4) a nice conical or similar fermenter 5) LODO low oxegon friendly system

No Idea whAts goin on with pump powered recirculating, whirlpooling, moving wort. No idea if the induction plates will work for heating although BYO article claims it will. Wondering if I could use the “dialable” plates to maintain a mash temp. I would have to watch the mash closely but would not have to have a “controller” if so.

Anyone used a system anything similar to this idea? Im trying to avoid major mistakes before I purchase, drill holes in pots, etc. Also does this brewing system concept sound passable as a LODO system?
Back to top
kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11123
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Thu Dec 24, 2020 6:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi!

I'd suggest you peruse my (electric) build instructions if you want to learn how it all works, and then read my BREW DAY STEP BY STEP to see how it all works in action (or just jump to that right from the start).

Build instructions are here : https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/pages/building-your-brewery
Brew day step by step is here : https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/pages/using-your-brewery

I've been practicing many (most?) aspects of LODO myself for more than 10 years now (before they called it this). No reason why you can't LODO. But be aware that it's more about the process than the equipment.

I looked into induction heating early on when I was designing my brewery and only industrial induction heaters would be able to hold the amount of weight I'd need for 10 gallon batches and have the feedback you want to able to set and forget the temp, never mind have the power I'd want. They were many thousands of dollars (and you need 2) and had lots of disadvantages over the control panel solution I eventually went with (would not provide the same level of control, alarming, and so on). Since it only presented downsides compared to directly heating the water or wort with an electric element, I discarded the idea. Some threads on induction discussions:

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=28686
http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=29104

You wouldn't want to try and manually control the mash temp on a recirculating setup. That would very fairly impossible to do reliably plus you'd have to sit there for 1-2 hours manually playing with the power. That would get very old, very fast.

If your goal is to avoid mistakes, I suggest you follow my build instructions as they've been vetted and proven to work. They've been in use by tens of thousands of brewers (both pro and homebrewer) around the world in over 60 countries for more than 10 years now to produce the highest quality, reproducible beer possible. This electric all-grain brewery had to meet the following criteria when I was designing it:

- 100% electric for indoor brewing
- Safe, easy, and enjoyable to use
- Not limit the brewer in any way
- Provide extremely repeatable and consistent results
- Use industrial quality parts that last (all stainless steel, limit the use of plastics)
- Use standard off the shelf parts to ensure long term serviceability (limit the use of special / proprietary parts)

You can read some of the testimonials of those using it here: https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/pages/testimonials

Cheers and welcome to the forum!

Kal

_________________
Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
Back to top
View user's photo album (21 photos)
Beavis




Joined: 24 Dec 2020
Posts: 4
Location: St Louis, MO


PostLink    Posted: Thu Dec 24, 2020 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank u for the excellent info !
Back to top
Beavis




Joined: 24 Dec 2020
Posts: 4
Location: St Louis, MO


PostLink    Posted: Thu Dec 24, 2020 6:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank u sir.

There are induction plates out there now for 350$ or so that supposedly can bring a ten gallon pot to a boil in half an hour. It is suggested you get “narrow” pots (14” wide or so) for more efficiency atop the burner, and as you know there is a weight concern. Unsure if these burners can withstand the weight.

I would think if your room temp and water temp is known and the same every time, you could predict a mash temp via the temperature dial on the induction plate, hence not needing a “controller.”

Another concern is finding a pot with a magnetized bottom, so it would work with this burner.
Back to top
kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11123
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Thu Dec 24, 2020 8:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Beavis wrote:
There are induction plates out there now for 350$ or so that supposedly can bring a ten gallon pot to a boil in half an hour.

Do you have a link?

Assuming you start with room temperature water at 72F (best case scenario as most tap water is colder than that), that's 10 gallons going up 140F in 30 minutes. If you do that math and assume a vessel that retains 95% of the heat the power needed to do that in 30 minutes is 7200W if you use a heating element completely submerged. It'll be slightly longer for an induction cooktop as 100% of the heat does not go directly into the liquid like the completely submerged heating elements I use and recommend.

7200W would be a 240V induction cooktop. That draws exactly 30 amps so you'd need something larger, next step up is a 40A or 50A breaker. An induction cooktop with a 40-50A plug is something commercial/industrial.

Quote:
... and as you know there is a weight concern. Unsure if these burners can withstand the weight.

Most of the small ones cannot. Which is why I was looking at industrial/commercial ones originally.

Then there's the whole "how do I control the temp?" issue too as I mentioned. You need one with a temp probe that installs in the kettle if the goal is to maintain temperature. Given liquid layering/stratification that can occur you want to keep the liquid moving too if you're not going all the way to boiling (ie the mash).

Quote:
I would think if your room temp and water temp is known and the same every time, you could predict a mash temp via the temperature dial on the induction plate, hence not needing a “controller.”

Induction cooktops do not have temperature dials. They're like any stove where you have power dials that only control the amount of power. So just like a gas or electric (or induction) stove cooktop doesn't know what temp your pot is at, neither does a separate induction cooktop. Often the dials go from 1 to 10 and all that does is control the rate of heat coming out of the induction cooktop. Turn it down low and it'll still get to boiling but just take longer than if you had it turned up higher.

Calculating how long it may take to get the mash temp isn't the issue either. It's holding/maintaining the temperature and doing step mashes/ramping/etc.
The last beer I brewed was a witbier (https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/pages/witbier) that went something like this:

- Mash at 122 for 15 mins
- Raise to 155F and hold for an additional 90 mins.
- Raise to 168F mashout temperature and hold for 10 mins.

You want something intelligent (like the control panel design on our website here) so that you can just enter the temp and it'll then heat to (and never above) and then pulse the heating element to hold and maintain the temp. Here's a video from the last witbier brew that shows the control panel pulsing the heating element every few seconds to hold it at exactly 155F (see the yellow ELEMENT ON light blinking on and off): https://www.instagram.com/p/CHQU4xyHvMF/

I wouldn't want to sit there doing that manually for 90 minutes.

Kal

_________________
Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
Back to top
View user's photo album (21 photos)
Beavis




Joined: 24 Dec 2020
Posts: 4
Location: St Louis, MO


PostLink    Posted: Fri Dec 25, 2020 3:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nossir I do ‘t have a link just memory from reading different sources. You make some good points and food for thought. I have been an infusion mash guy in the past and never needed to step mash other than raising to 168 at the end.
Back to top
kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11123
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Fri Dec 25, 2020 3:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No worries! Just want to make sure you consider all avenues. Cheers!

Kal

_________________
Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
Back to top
View user's photo album (21 photos)
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic   Printer-friendly view    TheElectricBrewery.com Forum Index -> Electric Brewing All times are GMT
Page 1 of 1
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You can download files in this forum



Forum powered by phpBB © phpBB Group