How do you calculate the brewing salts additions in beer smith when you have to add extra volume to the hlt on a smaller recipe to cover the herms coil? Or should I just sparge with straight ro water that's been ph adjusted to 5.6 to 5.8 and then add my brew salts to boil kettle? Would straight ro be to harsh to sparge with? _________________ Brian allerton
Joined: 04 Jul 2020 Posts: 10 Location: Estevan sk
Link Posted: Mon Jul 06, 2020 8:16 pm Post subject:
If I understand correctly after rereading everything multiple times, you are adding the sparge water salts after the sparge as boil salts? And sparging with straight ph adjust water (in my case ro) _________________ Brian allerton
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 10613 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: German Lager, Electric Creamsicle, London Pride, Kolsch, Belgian IPA, Red IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
Working on: Weizen, Belgian Quad, Wit, English Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle
Link Posted: Mon Jul 06, 2020 8:55 pm Post subject:
If I understand correctly after rereading everything multiple times, you are adding the sparge water salts after the sparge as boil salts?
In step 4 (measure salt additions) I mention:
"The EZWaterCalculator spreadsheet has automatically calculated the sparge water additions (shown in green below) that will be added to the Boil Kettle to help mostly with flavour"
"As we measure out the salt additions we dump them into two small containers that have been labelled as 'mash' and 'boil'"
"During the brew day the mash salts are added to the heated water in the Mash / Lauter Tun at the same time as the grain and mixed well with the mash paddle. The sparge salts are added to the Boil Kettle after we've come to a boil."
Then in step 5 (brew day) I mention:
"During our brew day we add the various salts measured in the previous steps to the mash and to the boil, and make other water adjustments."
"After the wort has come to a boil in Boil Kettle and the foam (called 'hot break') has subsided, add the sparge salts to the boil."
And sparging with straight ph adjust water (in my case ro)
In step 5 (brew day) I mention:
"ACIDIFYING SPARGE WATER
Before we sparge (rinse the sugars from the grain using the sparge water in the Hot Liquor Tank) we want to ensure that the pH of the water isn't too high. Too high of a pH can extract excess tannins from the grain husks. While all beer will have some tannins, with most beers (including this one) we want to try and minimize the amount. Tannins have a tongue-drying astringent taste like over steeped tea or strong red wine.
We want the sparge water pH to be below 6.0 (when measured at mash temperature), preferably in the 5.6 to 5.8 range. Before sparging take a pH reading by placing the probe tip of the pH meter in the Hot Liquor Tank. If the water is well above the temperature your pH meter is able to compensate for you may want to extract a sample and wait for it to cool slightly first. To lower the pH, add some 88% lactic acid half a millilitres (mL) at a time using a 1mL (1 cc) syringe, wait a minute for the acid to recirculate and mix through the pump, and re-measure. It usually only takes us one or two millilitres at most in 10-13 gallons of sparge water to get down into the 5.6 to 5.8 range. All water is different however. Once you know how your water reacts, you'll be able to adjust it without having to measure the pH every time.
We usually acidify the sparge water while the mash is proceeding."
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