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Electricflow
Joined: 06 Feb 2020 Posts: 4 Location: Va
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Link Posted: Fri Feb 07, 2020 5:05 am Post subject: SS BrewTech Halo Element |
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Hi all,
First Time poster long time lurker
Quick Question
I was looking at purchasing a SS brewtech Ekettle, It comes with the Halo heating element. In the Description for the brewing controller it states it utilizes an SSVR to drive the element.
I assume I could control the element with a PID/SSR system without any issues. The SSVR using Phase angle firing seems like it could be harder on the coil then PID/SSR combo. Could also use one of the power regulators from Aurber.
Utilizing the PT100 probe should be easy, just need to adapt the stereo plug.
TLDR;
Safe to use SS brewtech Halo coil with a SSR or a power regulator rather than a SSVR?
Thanks for the Input.
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JMD887
Joined: 31 Jan 2018 Posts: 120 Location: Akron, Ohio
Drinking: Two Hearted Ale
Working on: American Red IPA
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Link Posted: Fri Feb 07, 2020 12:26 pm Post subject: |
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my initial thought is you should be okay; however, I am not electrical minded. If it were me, I'd reach out to SS to see what their thoughts on it are. I'm sure there are some folks on here who could shed some light on the subject though.
Sorry I'm of no help here.
Welcome to the forum and happy building- I look forward to see how this thread evolves.
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Electricflow
Joined: 06 Feb 2020 Posts: 4 Location: Va
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Link Posted: Fri Feb 07, 2020 12:45 pm Post subject: |
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Judging by their faq section the response would be
That its designed to work specifically with their control units.
Dont think they want to be responsible if anything happens.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11123 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Fri Feb 07, 2020 2:33 pm Post subject: |
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For what it's worth I'm not a fan of the cheap moulded rubber plugs they (and others) use to keep costs down. I use use industrial nylon plugs and receptacles. Also consider the replacement cost of the element if anything should happen (like a dry fire or damage). Last but not least, consider that it's completely proprietary which means you're dependant on them continuing to produce this product for life which is unlikely as companies are always trying to invent things that they tell you are better/newer to get you to buy over and over again. If in 5 years you need to replace something and that version's no longer made, you may need to replace the entire kettle. More info: https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/pages/faq#Does_your_brewery_use_any_special_or_proprietary_parts_
My 2 (or 4) cents! Cheers and welcome to the forum!
Kal
_________________ Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
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Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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Electricflow
Joined: 06 Feb 2020 Posts: 4 Location: Va
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Link Posted: Fri Feb 07, 2020 4:07 pm Post subject: |
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Hi. And Thanks for the reply
By rubber plug is that referring to the seal on the TC that the element connects to?
I see your point on proprietary parts. If the element dies i could replace it with another TC element?
V/R
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11123 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Fri Feb 07, 2020 5:03 pm Post subject: |
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Electricflow wrote: | By rubber plug is that referring to the seal on the TC that the element connects to? |
I mean the actual plug and receptacle that is used on the cord. The parts that plug into the kettle and control panel. Maybe we're talking about the same thing? Cheap molded rubber instead of industrial nylon as we use here: https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/collections/heating-elements
Quote: | I see your point on proprietary parts. If the element dies i could replace it with another TC element? |
I don’t know. That would be a question for SS Brewtech. Would depend on a lot of factors probably so I'm not sure it's something they could answer. They'd probably say "we only guarantee that our products will fit".
The Halo element is fairly low in the kettle too so not sure if things like the Hop Stopper would fit (if you're at all interested in adding one). This would have to be confirmed with the exact kettle and through measurements.
Kal
_________________ Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
Last edited by kal on Fri Feb 07, 2020 6:50 pm; edited 2 times in total
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11123 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Fri Feb 07, 2020 6:32 pm Post subject: |
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Just to be clear about this (with pics) we use this sort industrial nylon plugon our heating elements:
And on our pump extension cords:
And on our control panel receptacles:
Instead of molded rubber plugs/receptacles like this:
The solution I recommend (and what we use on all of our high voltage/high current cords as well as pump extension cords) is an industrial grade plug (L6-30 locking in this case) with a tough nylon body that resists damage from impact, abrasion and chemicals. It is the quality you'd see in a plant floor environment as they have improved conductivity, low resistance, and long life. The plug can be removed/opened/replaced by the user (if required). To keep manufacturing costs as low as possible, the others will suse an inexpensive non-industrial (consumer grade) rubber molded plug that is integrated with the power cable and the two parts cannot be separated. In use the rubber can get hot, the spades can move around, creating poor contact which can cause overheating/melting.
Nylon of course costs more of course but at the end of the day you get what you pay for.
I also don't like having a cable disconnect at the kettle end. It's another failure point and is also not waterwaterproof like our design. A boilover can get into the connection points of a Boil Coil which may present a shock hazard. My solution is completely waterproof. While we all try and avoid boilovers, they do happen. (I've had one happen after 60 mins of boiling during a massive hop addition because I wasn't watching. The outside of the kettle and heating element box were completed coated in hop bits. The inside stayed dry).
I get people sending me pics like these all the time (see the second pic onwards) wondering why their plugs are melting:
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bxi-bk0FPtf/
In a perfect world both will fit / matt well and you won't have issues but this isn't a perfect world.
Kal
_________________ Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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Electricflow
Joined: 06 Feb 2020 Posts: 4 Location: Va
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Link Posted: Fri Feb 07, 2020 9:37 pm Post subject: |
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Understood on the nylon. Don't need the plug melting. The copper/aluminum in the cable is going to get hot during a 60+ min boil.
I noticed some of the photos had the nylon plug connected to a TC fitting heating element. Do these provide good protection against liquid intrusion?
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11123 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Fri Feb 07, 2020 10:35 pm Post subject: |
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Electricflow wrote: | I noticed some of the photos had the nylon plug connected to a TC fitting heating element. Do these provide good protection against liquid intrusion? |
Nope. None at all. That's why I don't like any disconnects at the kettle. Some will say that makes cleaning annoying, but I never disconnect my element or temp probe from my boil kettle. I simply tilt it in place into the sink.
Cheers!
Kal
_________________ Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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