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braindead
Joined: 28 Nov 2017 Posts: 5
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11121 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Walts Malt
Joined: 27 Sep 2013 Posts: 119 Location: Farmington, MN
Drinking: Two Hearted Clone
Working on: Planning my Fall Brewing Schedule
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Link Posted: Fri Aug 24, 2018 7:15 pm Post subject: |
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I'm getting ready to brew this in a couple of weeks for our annual Christmas Party. Simple question, I think. I usually brew this as an 8 gallon batch as I was worried I was pushing my mashtun to the limit for capacity. This year I'm considering brewing the full 10 gallon batch. My question is whether or not my efficiency will suffer. I'm normally at 80% for my current system (using Mega Pots from Northern Brewer with their false bottom), but I adjust it downwards to 70% when brewing this beer and I generally hit my numbers. If going to 10, should I dial it back further to 65%?
This is one of my favorite beers of the year, so I'm hoping to squeeze the extra 2 gallons out if possible.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11121 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Walts Malt
Joined: 27 Sep 2013 Posts: 119 Location: Farmington, MN
Drinking: Two Hearted Clone
Working on: Planning my Fall Brewing Schedule
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Link Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2018 12:56 am Post subject: |
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I brewed this last Monday afternoon and was able to use my Tilt for the first time to monitor the beer during the fermentation. I'm really enjoying this as I've watched it go from 1.101 at the start to 1.021 today. Since I can monitor this pretty well, should I stop this at 1.019? Put another way, is there a final gravity that you wouldn't let this beer go past? I don't want this to be too dry. It's clear the fermentation has really slowed down the past two days, so I'm wondering if it might even get to 1.019.
As far as the Tilt goes, I love it. Really think this is going to help schedule my fall brewing and make sure I get all my brews in before Christmas time.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11121 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2018 2:22 am Post subject: |
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Never try and stop fermentation in any beer. Let it finish.
Some brewers may try and use various chemicals to stop fermentation but that's unreliable. Attempting to stop fermentation is dangerous as it can start up again and create bottle bombs which can explode (if you bottle of course). Less dangerous if you keg, but still not something you want to do.
Always let beer ferment until the end. If it's too dry when finished or not dry enough, you adjust your process and recipe for next time.
Kal
_________________ Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
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My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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zimmekt
Joined: 23 Dec 2015 Posts: 10 Location: Lakewood, Ohio
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Link Posted: Thu Nov 08, 2018 7:12 pm Post subject: |
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I brewed this a few weeks ago and also had an issue with FG dropping lower than expected. OG came in a little lower that I was shooting for (1.094) as I think I may have sparged too quickly. I also completely flaked and forgot to mashout. I was trying to do too many things at once, but I digress. Any guesses as to why I may have fermented so low?
Fermentation was done in a temp controlled conical. I pitched a freshly cold crashed and decanted yeast starter of the calculated size. Held starting temp at 64 and slowly bumped it up over the week to 68. Took a little over two weeks to finish out and stabilize at the FG for a few days to indicate fermentation was complete. FG was 1.011.
Should I try increasing mash temp a few degrees from the 150 the recipe calls for? Any other suggestions?
Thanks
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11121 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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champ
Joined: 01 Jan 2018 Posts: 21
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Link Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2019 11:25 pm Post subject: |
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kal wrote: | matto wrote: | Hi Kal, this one looks nice. Quick question about the 2hr boil. What is the rationale for that? Is it to help get the gravity up where you want it? Or does it have to do with the grain bill -- somewhat like the 90min boil when using pilsner malt? |
Correct with helping get the gravity up where we want it: There's so much grain and strike water and therefore so little sparge water that you leave a lot of sugars behind when sparging high gravity beers. This is true for any brewing setup. Boiling longer forces us to collect a lot more wort which means we need to sparge longer which means we extract more sugars from the grain. Some people are known to do 4+ hour boils for a RIS or a barley wine (both very high gravity beers, often over 10% ABV).
If you do a 60 min boil then your efficiency will be lower as you're going to use less sparge water and leave some sugars behind, which means you'd need more grain (and strike water) and again conversely less sparge water.
Longer boils also help build up the malty caramel flavors in the beer (helps bring out the dark fruit, rich caramel and toffee flavors that you get out of some malts). This is what "everyone says" but I really have my doubts about how much of a difference longer boils make to the flavour. One day I'd like to put that to the test to see....
Nothing to do with removing SMM (the precursor to DMS) like is usually done when using large amounts of pilsner malt in a beer. (I always boil beers that have lots of pilsner malt vigorously for 90+ minutes).
Kal |
We are lowering our efficiency for this brew. Are you using extra sparge water to extract as much sugars as possible and then boiling longer to boil off more water to get to your fermenter volume and starting gravity?
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11121 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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champ
Joined: 01 Jan 2018 Posts: 21
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Link Posted: Sun Jan 27, 2019 12:53 am Post subject: |
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kal wrote: | champ wrote: | Are you using extra sparge water to extract as much sugars as possible and then boiling longer to boil off more water to get to your fermenter volume and starting gravity? |
Hi! Are you asking me? Or someone else? Reason I ask is because you quoted where I mentioned that I use more sparge water and then boil longer, but then ask if I use more sparge water and boil longer. So I'm confused.
Kal |
Asking you. You said you sparged longer. Wanted to be clear what you meant.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11121 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11121 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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windquest
Joined: 13 May 2018 Posts: 27 Location: Apache Jct, AZ
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Link Posted: Fri Dec 06, 2019 6:13 am Post subject: |
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Kal,
Just brewed this but I didn't have enough water to extract 15.8 gal. (From the original 20 gal HLT) Did I do something wrong or did my grain just suck up more water? As it turned out I added 1 gal additional water to the boil kettle, and boiled 2 hours. My OG is perfect. But should I have to add additional water over and above the 20 gal? This looks like it will be a winner....Oak cubes soaking.....
Thanks,
Henry
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11121 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Fri Dec 06, 2019 2:16 pm Post subject: |
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windquest wrote: | Kal,
Just brewed this but I didn't have enough water to extract 15.8 gal. (From the original 20 gal HLT) Did I do something wrong or did my grain just suck up more water? As it turned out I added 1 gal additional water to the boil kettle, and boiled 2 hours. My OG is perfect. But should I have to add additional water over and above the 20 gal? This looks like it will be a winner....Oak cubes soaking..... |
Hi Henry,
See the first bullet in the notes/process section of the recipe:
- Add 625mg potassium metabisulphite to 25 gallons water to remove chlorine / chloramine (if required). (Given the high amount of grain used and longer boil time, with 20 gallon kettles you will need to fill the HLT and MLT separately with water).
Exactly right that the amount of water required with the 12 gallon batch as documented with 20 gallon kettles will be more than 20 gallons because of the extra grain soaking up water. Simply fill the two kettles separately and start heating that way. You can do this for any beer, but I don't because then I'm required to measure out two separate additions of potassium metabisulphite that will vary in amount based on how much water I have in each. It's quicker/easier to simply always fill the HLT to 20 gallons and add the same amount of potassium metabisulphite each time. Completely up to you of course. Some people use a smaller HLT and are always required to split the strike/sparge water right from the start.
Enjoy the beer!
Kal
_________________ Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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windquest
Joined: 13 May 2018 Posts: 27 Location: Apache Jct, AZ
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Link Posted: Fri Dec 06, 2019 4:26 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Kal for the quick reply......I totally missed the first bullet point, but compensated non the less. This is my 4th brew on the clone system so there are lots of things to sort out, but the list is smaller than the 1st. Thanks for all you do.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11121 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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windquest
Joined: 13 May 2018 Posts: 27 Location: Apache Jct, AZ
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Link Posted: Thu Jan 09, 2020 2:47 am Post subject: |
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Just tapped the keg.....WOW!!!! 15 days with the bourbon soaked oak cubes (double cubes, double bourbon) Its FANSASTIC. Second keg, normal bourbon, normal cubes....againg. Great recipe, thanks Kal
Henry
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11121 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11121 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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