HLT Leaks -- Compression fitting and HERMS input valve

welliott18 · Joined: 18 Oct 2019 Posts: 3

Tonight I did a test run of my new setup using the 50A B2B panel kit with water only and everything is operational from the control panels perspective, elements work, pumps work, PIDS/alarms/timer work. I have some minor leaks to fix up but those aren't concerning.

My biggest problem at the moment is the HLT. The input valve connection leaks really bad and the top HERMS compression fitting connection appears to leak some also (photos attached).

The input valve leak appears to be coming from the SS 1/2" NPT lock nut -- I believe on the valve side.

What's the best plan of attack to fix these two issues?

If the compression fittings were done improperly the first time what needs to be done to fix -- cut off coil at fitting and get a new one? I am worried that the coil end may be too short for another attempt since it kept popping out when I was trying to install it the first time, which could've lead to overtightening?

**kal** · Posted: Sat Nov 02, 2019 1:19 pm Post subject:

Hi! A few questions for you:

1. Is the leaking valve the only place that sort of connection is leaking? In other words all of the other places done the same were tested and do not leak? If yes, something has to be different there, either in the parts that were used or how they were assembled. I would double check everything. Other than the HERMS coil I don't believe you bought any of the stainless fittings/valves from us? Double check that you bought the right parts. Hard to tell from your valve pic but it looks like the stainless washer/shim may be too large? (It looks like I can see the inside of it near the top which seems odd.)

2. For the leaky compression fitting make sure you install all the ferrules in the right spots in the right directions. The compression side of the fittings (the nut farthest from the kettle wall) should be tightened down on the coil until finger tight and then a wrench should be used to turn it another full rotation or so to swage (compress) the ferrules inside onto the coil tubing. This forms the tight seal. Be aware that once swaged, the ferrule cannot be moved or reused.

Kal

welliott18 · Joined: 18 Oct 2019 Posts: 3

**kal** · Posted: Sat Nov 02, 2019 1:47 pm Post subject:

KB · Posted: Sat Nov 09, 2019 2:35 pm Post subject:

I had similar problems when I build my EB a few years ago. Tighten and then tighten more. If believing it's tight enough, tighten some more. Especially with the compression fitting. Curvature of the kettle inside makes this a difficult task. However, use large length wrenches to get leverage and tighten. IMO, smaller hand wrenches just don't provide enough leverage. An old plumbing trick is to use a piece of pipe on the end of the wrench, thereby giving length to the wrench and, providing leverage.

**kal** · Posted: Sat Nov 09, 2019 6:36 pm Post subject:

Normally going finger tight and then using a wrench to do another full rotation is all you need. This is what we recommend in the instructions.

If you used someone else's product then follow whatever instructions they have for their compression fittings.

Kal