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Electric Hop Candy (New England IPA / NEIPA)
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Sun Oct 28, 2018 5:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


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Good luck with your brew!

Electric Hop Candy (like many NEIPAs) is definitely hop-heavy. Because of this NEIPAs will always cost more to brew than some other simpler beers.

Cheers,

Kal

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Last edited by kal on Sun Oct 28, 2018 6:48 pm; edited 1 time in total
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alphakry




Joined: 27 Oct 2018
Posts: 88



PostLink    Posted: Sun Oct 28, 2018 6:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yea, totally makes sense. Thanks again Kal - i'm in love with your site as I move into Electric Brewing.

I'll get to becoming a forum supporter on my next pay check! Smile

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alphakry




Joined: 27 Oct 2018
Posts: 88



PostLink    Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2018 2:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In my quest to brew this beer in time for our friends and family Christmas get together, I must first thank Kai and everyone else for their input thus far! This forum community is great!

So I was wondering what opinions would be on using some substituted ingredients in the grain bill. If i may ask forgiveness for suggestion changes to a masterpiece, but I have come across a friendly offer for some really great pricing on Weyermann branded malts. So I'd be looking at possibly integrating some of their malts into this recipe and wanted feedback from anyone that has brewed this or uses their brand of malts...

IE: using their Pilsner malts in substitution for the Domestic 2-Row Malt, using their Pale Wheat Malt over Western white wheat and i'm not quite sure which of their malts would best match up to the Maris Otter and Honey Malts. Thoughts?

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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2018 3:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're welcome!

alphakry wrote:
In my quest to brew this beer in time for our friends and family Christmas get together...

When's the get together? This one's a fairly fast brew and will be kegged about 10 days after your brew day. If you force carb (set to ~45PSI overnight) it'll be ready to drink pretty much the next day. IPAs are best to be consumed fresh and leaving it a week or so lets then come together a bit better too I find.

Quote:
So I was wondering what opinions would be on using some substituted ingredients in the grain bill.

Completely up to you - sub anything you like. Depending on what you sub, the results will be affected of course.

Quote:
I have come across a friendly offer for some really great pricing on Weyermann branded malts. So I'd be looking at possibly integrating some of their malts into this recipe and wanted feedback from anyone that has brewed this or uses their brand of malts... IE: using their Pilsner malts in substitution for the Domestic 2-Row Malt, using their Pale Wheat Malt over Western white wheat and i'm not quite sure which of their malts would best match up to the Maris Otter and Honey Malts. Thoughts?

Weyermann makes great stuff. You could sub the domestic 2-row for their pilsner malt and you won't even notice the difference given everything else going on.

Their Pale Ale malt would be a reasonable sub for the Maris Otter. Maybe a touch too light but would still work well. It's what I'd use.

They make Wheat malt so no issues there - use the Pale Wheat. I don't believe they make flaked oats. The oats are important here for mouthfeel.

I like the use of some Honey Malt (~5% or so) in this beer too as it adds a touch of body and sweetness. If you don't have it, replace it with something else like more base malt or something similar kiln level (25L) or possibly 80% Melanoidin malt and then one of their caramel/crystal malts in the 20-30L range like their CaraRed for the other 20% to replace that colour.

Important to remember that the malt bill with this beer isn't as critical as the hops, yeast, water adjustment, and process (IMHO). You want a bunch of low lovibond stuff and then a bunch of high-protein adjuncts (wheat/flaked oats) to help provide a silky/rich mouthfeel without increasing the final gravity and making the beer too heavy or too full bodied.

Good luck!

Kal

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Last edited by kal on Tue Nov 13, 2018 3:24 pm; edited 1 time in total
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alphakry




Joined: 27 Oct 2018
Posts: 88



PostLink    Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2018 3:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

awesome, thanks Kai!!!

And I was excited to see you're already using their malts in your Hop Candy Jr recipe so i'll be making that as well with a lot of comfort knowing I'm as close to original recipe as possible! EXCITED!!

We'll be sitting down to drink on Christmas Eve, so i should have the time as you said. Plus I'll be fermenting in either an SS Unitank or Spike's CF - so I can ferment under pressure to help reduce that time as well.

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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Tue Nov 13, 2018 9:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good luck with the brew!

Kal

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dtapke




Joined: 26 Oct 2018
Posts: 12
Location: Portage, Wisconsin


PostLink    Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2018 5:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Made this, skipped the irish moss addition, and I've noticed my color is off compared to yours, It seems oxidation plays a heavy and fast role with this style? I'm also wondering if the skipped irish moss could cause it. It's looks more like yeasty water than orange juice...

I co2 purged my kegs but transferred openly instead of closed. Upgrading my plastic conical this weekend by making some silicone O-rings to seal it better at the lid, and adding a corny co2 quick connect, along with a proper dip tube to allow for fully closed transfers.

maybe some day I'll fork over the cash for a unitank or something similar! but for now, a $75 inductor tank with $100 worth of misc hardware will have to do!

EDIT: I should say, It's absolutely DELICIOUS!

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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2018 7:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dtapke wrote:
EDIT: I should say, It's absolutely DELICIOUS!

That's really all that matters! Glad you like it!

Re: Oxidation: It affects IPAs more than most other beer styles so it's important to be really careful if doing open transfers (always purge target vessels, don't do this where there's any breeze, etc).

Kal

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Tripel




Joined: 25 Feb 2015
Posts: 20
Location: Pennsylvania

Drinking: Winter Wit, Kolsch, Flemish Red, Imperial Stout


PostLink    Posted: Sun Mar 17, 2019 1:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello Kal,

I'm late to the party on this brew. Read your excellent write up last week and brewed it yesterday. Wonderful aroma. Vigorous fermentation with high krausen likely this afternoon. Thanks for inspiring me to do something new.

York

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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Sun Mar 17, 2019 1:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Enjoy! NEIPA is a great style that seems to have take the world by storm... nobody seems to brew 'regular' IPAs anymore!

Kal

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dp Brewing Company




Joined: 08 Jul 2013
Posts: 664
Location: Midwest

Drinking: Chocolate Taco, Raspberry Mango Cider, American X, Sandy Dunes

Working on: Nothing


PostLink    Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2019 12:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kal, I have a question for you. I've only brewed this style of beer a few times. I recently brewed a batch with a close friend. He was convinced that with everything he had read and his past experiences you want no oxygen exposure at all (or limited as much as possible). I mean he had me purge out the fermentor with co2 and transfer without oxygenating the wort. I felt like this was a bad idea but figured he had done his research. Anyway, we brewed the beer and transferred as he suggested. With no surprise it was over a day and half before it started to ferment. Very slow fermentation. We used Tropical IPA from Omega which recommend 75 degree plus temp to ferment at. We fermented at 75 degrees. The beer actually fermented out completely and taste really good...but....has no aroma. Any thoughts on this experiment and or why there was no aroma? I added the dry hops right with fermentation started, removed it two days later then added another dose of dry hops for two more days.
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2019 3:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dp Brewing Company wrote:
He was convinced that with everything he had read and his past experiences you want no oxygen exposure at all (or limited as much as possible).

True of any beer, more critical with hop forward beers like this. I mention it in the recipe and the process description.

Quote:
I mean he had me purge out the fermentor with co2 and transfer without oxygenating the wort. I felt like this was a bad idea but figured he had done his research.

You really mean the wort going into the fermenter and not the already fermented beer? Doesn't make much sense to me to transfer wort into the fermenter without having it touch any oxygen as the first thing you need to do is oxygenate the wort. No harm in purging, but really no point if you're just going to aerate before or after anyway. Did you aerate?

After fermentation I do always purge any target vessel (like brite tanks or kegs) with CO2 to limit any oxygen contact however.

Quote:
Any thoughts on ... why there was no aroma? I added the dry hops right with fermentation started, removed it two days later then added another dose of dry hops for two more days.

I get great results when I use the ingredients I outline in the recipe and follow my process. I always try and outline the process as well as I feel with beers like this it's really important. I try and be as descriptive as I can with the process steps, especially those that I feel are critical. A great hop flavour and aroma is (IMHO) critical to this style of beer.

Give the recipe a read again, especially the process sections include the one about dry hopping. That's what I do, and it works well for me. You're allowed to try anything you like of course, but if you change up the process and use different ingredients I won't be able to explain why you're seeing differences other than it may be related to the difference in process and difference in ingredients. You used a different yeast I'm not familiar with so possibly that had something to do with it? Having never used the yeast you used, I don't know. You also didn't aerate the wort? (Not sure from your description). Not sure what that would do to or how that may (or may not) affect hop aroma. You also used a different dry hopping schedule.

There may have been other things you did differently too. I'm not sure. How did the hops you used for late addition and dry hopping smell? Were they fresh and pungent?

Sorry I can't be more help, but answering these sorts of questions to pinpoint issues is nearly impossible I'm afraid.

Cheers!

Kal

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dp Brewing Company




Joined: 08 Jul 2013
Posts: 664
Location: Midwest

Drinking: Chocolate Taco, Raspberry Mango Cider, American X, Sandy Dunes

Working on: Nothing


PostLink    Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2019 3:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the reply. I didn't expect you to know exactly what was going on with the limited details I gave you. Just curious if anything jumped out at you. The main thing I was meaning to point out was that when he was talking about limit oxygen exposure, he was talking about the wort. Not the fermented beer. I understand after fermentation you need to limit any oxygen exposure to avoid oxidation. But he was talking about NOT adding any oxygen to the wort going into the fermentor. I was a little reluctant but did it anyway and figured it would be an experiment. When the fermentation was done I purged the kegs with CO2 and used CO2 to push the beer from the conical to the kegs.

The hops we used were from 2018 year and did smell good (normal).

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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Tue Mar 19, 2019 3:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not aerating at all sounds very odd to me, but that doesn't mean it doesn't it work for him. I believe it's part of the LODO (low oxygen brewing) craze that some brewers are following. If it's not giving you results you like, best you ask him about it I think as it's his process. If changing some things about the process, it may require other things in the process to be changed too (or possibly even recipe changes to compensate). Not sure, as it's not something I've tried myself.

Kal

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codex




Joined: 04 Nov 2016
Posts: 45
Location: Co Durham, UK

Drinking: American Pale Ale, NEIPA, German Pilsner


PostLink    Posted: Tue Apr 30, 2019 11:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Planning to brew this NEIPA in a few weeks which will be batch #6 on my EB.

I have a question regarding the dry hop #2 addition in a brite tank steeped for 3 days.

Unfortunately I do not have brite tanks (or glass carboys) and all my previous brews I have transferred from primary straight to corny keg, skipping the conditioning phase. So my options as I see are, add the dry hop #2 to the primary or add to the keg after transfer. I have just bought some Hop stopper 2 keg edition filters so this will stop any trub getting sucked through the dip tube. But not sure of the effect of leaving hops in the finished beer though, what do you think?

Advice appreciated as always

Cheers
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Tue Apr 30, 2019 12:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Both will work fine - some people say that leaving beer on hops in the keg for too long lends to grassy flavours but I've never noticed that. May depend on the beer or hops in use. Extraction is also slower at lower temps so if you steep for ~3 days at room temp and then lower the temp, not only will the extraction be more or less done in the first ~3 days but any additional extraction will be lessened.

Make 10 gallons and try both ways and report back on what you think! Wink

Kal

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codex




Joined: 04 Nov 2016
Posts: 45
Location: Co Durham, UK

Drinking: American Pale Ale, NEIPA, German Pilsner


PostLink    Posted: Tue Apr 30, 2019 12:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Kal for the super fast response.

I am making 10 gal anyway, so will do as you suggest and try both methods, and report my findings

Cheers
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Tue Apr 30, 2019 12:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great! Good luck with the brew!

Kal

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rivetcatcher




Joined: 21 Apr 2016
Posts: 132
Location: Thailand

Drinking: Way Out Wheat - Mindcircus

Working on: Zombie Dust


PostLink    Posted: Tue Apr 30, 2019 12:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I normally do all the dry hopping in primary for this beer... turns out great!!
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alphakry




Joined: 27 Oct 2018
Posts: 88



PostLink    Posted: Wed May 01, 2019 5:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

rivetcatcher wrote:
I normally do all the dry hopping in primary for this beer... turns out great!!


That's my plan for my first attempt. Do you use any type of hop bag/container or do you just dry hop directly into the wort? I am rocking a big ol' conical so i figure everything will settle for me to rack off of anyhow, not really requiring a container

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