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awesomo
Joined: 27 Apr 2019 Posts: 4
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Link Posted: Sat Apr 27, 2019 7:46 pm Post subject: No Power |
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I did some searching around the forum but couldn't find a problem like mine.
I purchased a 240/ 50a Back to Back panel kit from the website and have begun the process of putting things together. The problem is that I am stuck right out of the gate. I've assembled the Power Input section, as per the FAQ. When I plug in the panel to test it, nothing happens when I turn the on switch. No light, no "clicking" of the contactor, nothing at all. I've used my multi-meter and confirmed that I have 240 coming into the contactor. When I turn on the switch, I have 240 at the coil side of the contactor, but no power on the output side.
I've pulled everything apart and rewired twice. I tried one of the other contactors, to confirm that I didn't have a dead one, with the same results. I'm sure there is a simple explanation or fix, but I can't figure it out. I'm frustrated and feeling kind of stupid. Any help at all would be greatly appreciated.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Sat Apr 27, 2019 9:49 pm Post subject: |
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Hi and welcome to the forum!
Wiring instructions for your panel are here: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=25793
(I checked your order and it's a 50A back to back kit that has both 240V and 120V, meant for north american use and other countries that have both 240V and 120V)
The power input wiring diagram is this image that I'll refer to:
Measure across points W and Y on the power input receptacle. Do you have 120V AC?
If not, you most likely don't have 120V coming in from your wall outlet. Your wall outlet may be wired incorrectly.
If yes, measure between NEUTRAL bus and the #1 input (lower) side of the contactor. Do you have 120V AC?
If not something from the power input receptacle to the NEUTRAL bus and the contactor #1 input (lower) is wired incorrectly.
If yes, measure across the contactor coil when the power switch is in the ON position. Do you have 120V AC?
If not your switch may be wired incorrect, wrong contactor used (make sure it's the NO one) or the switch is not in the right position.
Let us know what you find up to this point and we can go from there.
Cheers!
Kal
P.S. You can also check out our troubleshooting guide here to see if anything 'clicks': http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=25460
_________________ Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
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Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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awesomo
Joined: 27 Apr 2019 Posts: 4
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Link Posted: Sun Apr 28, 2019 3:45 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for your quick reply.
So I tested everything as you suggested and figured it out. I was not getting complete continuity to the position on the neutral bus. Moved the neutral wire, that went to the coil, to another position and now I'm good. Is it common for there to not be complete continuity across all of the inputs of a bus?
Now I'm on to the next step, I hope to be brewing next weekend!
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Sun Apr 28, 2019 6:31 pm Post subject: |
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Glad you figured it out! awesomo wrote: | So I tested everything as you suggested and figured it out. I was not getting complete continuity to the position on the neutral bus. Moved the neutral wire, that went to the coil, to another position and now I'm good. Is it common for there to not be complete continuity across all of the inputs of a bus? |
It depends on what you did/what you mean exactly.
Our kits come with these 8-position terminal strips: https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/collections/wiring/products/terminal-strip-8-position
They look like this:
The screws within the same vertical section are connected. There 8 little metal plates screwed down by 2 screws each. So connect a wire to top screw and a wire to the corresponding bottom screw on the same metal plate, and those two wires will now be connected (have continuity).
But if you connect two wires to adjacent plates those two wires will not be connected. That's why the diagram above has wire jumpers to connect all of the bus points together. If some of these wires are missing, current cannot flow.
In all of our kits we include terminal strip jumps to make this jumpering easy. They're here and are already included in your kit: https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/collections/wiring/products/terminal-strip-jumper-8-position
They look like this:
Install these along one side of the terminal strip and tighten all the screws for that side. This avoids you having to make jumpers as all 8 metal plates are now connected together.
Good luck!
Kal
_________________ Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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awesomo
Joined: 27 Apr 2019 Posts: 4
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Link Posted: Sun Apr 28, 2019 8:03 pm Post subject: |
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Oh, that's what those metal things are for. Thank you!
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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