Return to TheElectricBrewery.com
  [ Shop ]   [ Building ]   [ Using ]   [ Recipes ]   [ Testimonials ]   [ Gallery ]   [ FAQ ]   [ About Us ]   [ Contact Us ]   [ Newsletter ]

Log inLog in   RegisterRegister   User Control PanelUser Control Panel   Private MessagesPrivate Messages   MembershipClub Memberships   SearchSearch   MemberlistMemberlist   Photo AlbumsPhoto Albums   Forum FAQForum FAQ

ULWD elements

 
Post new topic   Reply to topic   Printer-friendly view    TheElectricBrewery.com Forum Index -> Electric Brewing
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
hopcat



Joined: 10 Mar 2019
Posts: 2



PostLink    Posted: Mon Mar 11, 2019 11:01 am    Post subject: ULWD elements Reply with quote


        Register to remove this ad. It's free!
Hi all,Just want to ask what is the definition of ULWD.I am fitting a new element in a pot for a friends build,the element is 14w per cm2,all stainless ripple element,is this going to be a problem of scorching.I have a Camco in my boiler and had no issues,apart from the rust on the thread,to which I put an anode in the pot.Your help would greatly be appreciated
Back to top
kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9813
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Janet's Brown, Maibock, Kolsch, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: West Coast Blaster (American Red IPA)


PostLink    Posted: Mon Mar 11, 2019 11:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi and welcome to the forum!

ULWD stands for 'Ultra Low Watt Density' which means that the heat produced per square inch along the element is very low (50W per square inch or 7.8W per square centimeter). This greatly reduces the chance of scorching or caramelizing the boiling wort. ULWD elements will also not break immediately if dry fired (fired when not immersed in water).

This and more information on our heating element order pages. Example: https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/products/stainless-steel-heating-element-5500w-240v-camco-02965-ripple-bare-element

Kal

_________________
Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
Back to top
View user's photo album (21 photos)
hopcat



Joined: 10 Mar 2019
Posts: 2



PostLink    Posted: Mon Mar 11, 2019 12:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for your quick reply.So would you say 14w per cm2 is going to be problematic for him.I know my Camco is 6.7 kw.I donít want to dissapoint him and fit it to find scorching.
Back to top
kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9813
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Janet's Brown, Maibock, Kolsch, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: West Coast Blaster (American Red IPA)


PostLink    Posted: Mon Mar 11, 2019 12:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's not a question that can be answered I'm afraid. It depends on many other factors like how clean he keeps the element, what sort of beer he brews, how he brews/what he adds to the boil as it's ongoing (i.e. dumping in sugars or extract), etc. The lower the watt density the less prone you are to having issues, so that's why I always recommend ULWD. ULWD elements are also less likely to be damaged if dry fired.

Just like undoing your seatbelt in the car doesn't mean you'll immediately crash into a wall, using a high density element doesn't mean you'll immediately scorch your beer or have other issues. There are many brewers that have been brewing electric for years with higher watt density elements without any issues, but that doesn't mean it's the safest or best solution. If he keeps the element very clean between brews (looking like new) and is careful when adding things to the boil and does it slowly/carefully (like sugar or extract), doesn't try to boil something with the consistency of syrup, and never dry fires the element, he'll most likely be fine.

Rust is a completely separate issue. Most "regular" elements have an iron base that rusts so using a sacrificial anode like this one in the kettle is recommended: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/sacrificial-magnesium-anode

Our ULWD elements have a stainless steel base that does not rust so an anode is not required. Our elements are here: https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/collections/heating-elements

If building from scratch, once you factor in the added cost of an anode (never mind the extra work and tools required to punch a hole and install it) it doesn't really make sense to *not* go with an ULWD element. Given that he already has the non-ULWD element, the choice is completely up to him how he wants to go.

Good luck!

Kal

_________________
Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
Back to top
View user's photo album (21 photos)
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic   Printer-friendly view    TheElectricBrewery.com Forum Index -> Electric Brewing All times are GMT
Page 1 of 1
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You can download files in this forum


Support our site by purchasing through this link. We thank you!

Forum powered by phpBB © phpBB Group