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FAQ: Adapting for a 30 gallon/1 bbl (or larger) setup
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kwilson16



Joined: 09 May 2017
Posts: 8



PostLink    Posted: Sun May 06, 2018 11:59 pm    Post subject: 50A panel from 30A pre-cut Reply with quote


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Hi Kal,
I completed one of your pre-cut 30A panels and it works great. I would like to upgrade to the 50A. Is it possible with the pre-cut panel?
Thanks,
Kevin

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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9511
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Mon May 07, 2018 1:07 am    Post subject: Re: 50A panel from 30A pre-cut Reply with quote

kwilson16 wrote:
I completed one of your pre-cut 30A panels and it works great. I would like to upgrade to the 50A. Is it possible with the pre-cut panel?

I'm assuming you're interested in going from a 30A panel to a 50A panel for 30+ gallons.
Doing so using the existing enclosure is not obvious as you have nowhere to put the extra two heating element receptacles. The power in receptacle is also larger, so a larger hole is required. So a new enclosure would be required.

All of the high powered items inside would have to be replaced.

The items on the door would be fine.

I would recommend purchasing a new enclosure and moving the items over including new high powered items. We can sell you these items if you like. We'll be launching a new site to purchase parts like this 'ad-hoc' in (hopefully) a few weeks.

Kal

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dietern



Joined: 27 Jun 2018
Posts: 1



PostLink    Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2018 5:11 pm    Post subject: Silicon Tubing/Hose Diameter Reply with quote

Hi all,

I am in the process of building 1 bbl (30 gal) pilot plant (vessels sized 45 gal) for our brewery. I am using the excellent instructions created by Kal & Co (a million thanks!), but I have one question to which I can't seem to find the answer:

All silicone hoses used in the instructions are 1/2" ID. This is for a 10 gal batch size. Since my setup will be 30 gal batch size, will I need to use larger diameter hoses?

I've tried to consult online calculators for flow rates according to pressure and diameter, but these are not consistent.

I was thinking of using a two-tier system, where a pump would be used for transfer of water from HLT to MLT, but gravity alone would do the transfer during lautering between MLT and BK, as well as gravity between BK and fermenters (via wort chiller). I assume a pump could probably push a high transfer through the 1/2" ID hoses, but my main concern is that the gravity sections will flow too slowly for this batch size? Are there any rules of thumb for flow rates through these hoses? The height of my pots are 60cm (24"), so that would be the height differential considered for average gravity pressure differential.

I do not intend to have a HERMS setup, so this question does not apply for that section.

Thanks in advance for any insights, and thanks again for this wonderful website and forum!

Dieter
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9511
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2018 5:23 pm    Post subject: Re: Silicon Tubing/Hose Diameter Reply with quote

dietern wrote:
All silicone hoses used in the instructions are 1/2" ID. This is for a 10 gal batch size. Since my setup will be 30 gal batch size, will I need to use larger diameter hoses?

No.

Kal

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LW117



Joined: 21 Nov 2016
Posts: 4
Location: NH


PostLink    Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2018 10:17 pm    Post subject: Updating old panel Reply with quote

I originally built panel for 1bbl batches about 5 years ago, and I’m now going back through and updating the internals to work off the din rail components. I was wondering if there are updated wiring diagrams anywhere for this? Most of it seems pretty straight forward but I just want to make sure I’m doing this right the first time. Thanks in advance!
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9511
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2018 10:23 pm    Post subject: Re: Updating old panel Reply with quote

LW117 wrote:
I originally built panel for 1bbl batches about 5 years ago, and I’m now going back through and updating the internals to work off the din rail components. I was wondering if there are updated wiring diagrams anywhere for this? Most of it seems pretty straight forward but I just want to make sure I’m doing this right the first time. Thanks in advance!

Hi!

Wiring of a DIN rail based control panel is the same as non-DIN. The only difference is that you use DIN-based components and install a strip of DIN rail or two in the panel first with stoppers.

Our DIN rail components are here: https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/collections/din-rail-components

We also use DIN power supplies for the meters which replace the transformers and AC/DC power supplies.

The power supplies are here: https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/collections/din-rail-components/products/adjustable-dc-power-supply-85-264v-ac-input-4-75-5-5v-dc-output-din-rail
DIN rail is here: https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/collections/din-rail-components/products/din-rail-12-length
Stoppers are here: https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/collections/din-rail-components/products/stopper-din-rail

Good luck!

Kal

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LW117



Joined: 21 Nov 2016
Posts: 4
Location: NH


PostLink    Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2018 10:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for such a fast reply Kal! I guess my only area of confusion is the terminal block bus that took the place of the hot bus and neutral bus that used to be there. Does the order of wires matter, or is everything kosher as long as they link up? Love the new online store btw!
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9511
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2018 11:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Order of wires doesn't matter on terminal blocks - they're all connected (depending on how you use the jumpers of course!). Good luck with the build and glad to hear you're liking the new store! (Many new products yet to come that I've been working on, including March and Chugger pumps at great prices!)

Kal

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MonkeyMountain



Joined: 07 Oct 2018
Posts: 3
Location: Oita, Japan


PostLink    Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2018 2:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kal and the Electric Brewery Gang,

Do you remember all of the stuff you shipped to Japan earlier this year?



As you can see, the brewery is still under construction but the equipment is up and running! Mug

We only get 200V here...
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9511
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2018 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very nice!

Kal

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MonkeyMountain



Joined: 07 Oct 2018
Posts: 3
Location: Oita, Japan


PostLink    Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2018 11:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do have one issue where the safe start interlock is not working properly.

It correctly keeps the panel from powering up if anything is on and the panel will power up if everything is off. However, whenever I turn anything on, the panel shuts off.

I have double-checked the wiring to the safe start relay and so far, it looks OK. Any hints as to where I should look?

I bypassed it by adding a wire between the power in contactor coil and terminal 8 of the interlock relay. Everything else seems to work fine but I would sure like to get the safe start feature to work as well.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9511
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2018 1:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Look at your wiring around the safe start relay. You most likely missed a jumper wire. The relay is closing when the switches are all in the right position (normal) but without the loopback wire jumper it's not staying latched once closed. That missing wire would be the issue.

Kal

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MonkeyMountain



Joined: 07 Oct 2018
Posts: 3
Location: Oita, Japan


PostLink    Posted: Sun Dec 02, 2018 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That was it! No jumper between terminal 1 and 2. Fixed that and everything is working as it should.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 9511
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, English IPA, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter, Saison

Working on: Kölsch


PostLink    Posted: Sun Dec 02, 2018 3:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Perfect! Glad it was something simple. Happy brewing!

Kal

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