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Russian Imperial Stout (Bourbon barrel aged)
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braindead



Joined: 28 Nov 2017
Posts: 5



PostLink    Posted: Wed Feb 07, 2018 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


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Cheers for the quick reply
Would the same profile work with this
https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/302803/founders-kbs-clone

I trust your expert advise : )
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10196
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Wed Feb 07, 2018 7:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This profile will work with any beer. This profile is what I call a "balanced" profile. See the various profiles I use and what they mean in my Water Adjustment article here:

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/water-adjustment

In this case this balanced profile is described as "Does not favour flavour/maltiness or bitterness/dryness. For balanced beers."
You can use any profile you like for any beer. Some maybe better suited than others depending on what you're trying to achieve, like accentuating bitterness over maltiness, and so forth.

I recommend giving my Water Adjustments article a read so that you understand the outcomes and take control of your beer.

Good luck!

Kal

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Walts Malt



Joined: 27 Sep 2013
Posts: 85
Location: Farmington, MN

Drinking: Quad, RIS, Electric Pale Ale (Session), Belgian IPA, Kolsch, IIPA


PostLink    Posted: Fri Aug 24, 2018 7:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm getting ready to brew this in a couple of weeks for our annual Christmas Party. Simple question, I think. I usually brew this as an 8 gallon batch as I was worried I was pushing my mashtun to the limit for capacity. This year I'm considering brewing the full 10 gallon batch. My question is whether or not my efficiency will suffer. I'm normally at 80% for my current system (using Mega Pots from Northern Brewer with their false bottom), but I adjust it downwards to 70% when brewing this beer and I generally hit my numbers. If going to 10, should I dial it back further to 65%?

This is one of my favorite beers of the year, so I'm hoping to squeeze the extra 2 gallons out if possible.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10196
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Fri Aug 24, 2018 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Efficiency does drop on all setups as gravity goes up. How much depends on the setup / the process you use. So I can't really many any recommendations as to how far to dial back the efficiency. If your setup is identical to mine, I've indicated how much to drop in the recipe (and by how much grain I'm using).

Happy brewing!

Kal

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Walts Malt



Joined: 27 Sep 2013
Posts: 85
Location: Farmington, MN

Drinking: Quad, RIS, Electric Pale Ale (Session), Belgian IPA, Kolsch, IIPA


PostLink    Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2018 12:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I brewed this last Monday afternoon and was able to use my Tilt for the first time to monitor the beer during the fermentation. I'm really enjoying this as I've watched it go from 1.101 at the start to 1.021 today. Since I can monitor this pretty well, should I stop this at 1.019? Put another way, is there a final gravity that you wouldn't let this beer go past? I don't want this to be too dry. It's clear the fermentation has really slowed down the past two days, so I'm wondering if it might even get to 1.019.

As far as the Tilt goes, I love it. Really think this is going to help schedule my fall brewing and make sure I get all my brews in before Christmas time.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10196
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2018 2:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Never try and stop fermentation in any beer. Let it finish.

Some brewers may try and use various chemicals to stop fermentation but that's unreliable. Attempting to stop fermentation is dangerous as it can start up again and create bottle bombs which can explode (if you bottle of course). Less dangerous if you keg, but still not something you want to do.

Always let beer ferment until the end. If it's too dry when finished or not dry enough, you adjust your process and recipe for next time.

Kal

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zimmekt



Joined: 23 Dec 2015
Posts: 9
Location: Lakewood, Ohio


PostLink    Posted: Thu Nov 08, 2018 7:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I brewed this a few weeks ago and also had an issue with FG dropping lower than expected. OG came in a little lower that I was shooting for (1.094) as I think I may have sparged too quickly. I also completely flaked and forgot to mashout. I was trying to do too many things at once, but I digress. Any guesses as to why I may have fermented so low?

Fermentation was done in a temp controlled conical. I pitched a freshly cold crashed and decanted yeast starter of the calculated size. Held starting temp at 64 and slowly bumped it up over the week to 68. Took a little over two weeks to finish out and stabilize at the FG for a few days to indicate fermentation was complete. FG was 1.011.

Should I try increasing mash temp a few degrees from the 150 the recipe calls for? Any other suggestions?

Thanks
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10196
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Thu Nov 08, 2018 8:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How's it taste?

You can certainly increase the mash temp for next time if you find it finished too dry. Completely up to you.

Kal

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champ



Joined: 01 Jan 2018
Posts: 20



PostLink    Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2019 11:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
matto wrote:
Hi Kal, this one looks nice. Quick question about the 2hr boil. What is the rationale for that? Is it to help get the gravity up where you want it? Or does it have to do with the grain bill -- somewhat like the 90min boil when using pilsner malt?

Correct with helping get the gravity up where we want it: There's so much grain and strike water and therefore so little sparge water that you leave a lot of sugars behind when sparging high gravity beers. This is true for any brewing setup. Boiling longer forces us to collect a lot more wort which means we need to sparge longer which means we extract more sugars from the grain. Some people are known to do 4+ hour boils for a RIS or a barley wine (both very high gravity beers, often over 10% ABV).

If you do a 60 min boil then your efficiency will be lower as you're going to use less sparge water and leave some sugars behind, which means you'd need more grain (and strike water) and again conversely less sparge water.

Longer boils also help build up the malty caramel flavors in the beer (helps bring out the dark fruit, rich caramel and toffee flavors that you get out of some malts). This is what "everyone says" but I really have my doubts about how much of a difference longer boils make to the flavour. One day I'd like to put that to the test to see....

Nothing to do with removing SMM (the precursor to DMS) like is usually done when using large amounts of pilsner malt in a beer. (I always boil beers that have lots of pilsner malt vigorously for 90+ minutes).

Kal



We are lowering our efficiency for this brew. Are you using extra sparge water to extract as much sugars as possible and then boiling longer to boil off more water to get to your fermenter volume and starting gravity?
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10196
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2019 11:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

champ wrote:
Are you using extra sparge water to extract as much sugars as possible and then boiling longer to boil off more water to get to your fermenter volume and starting gravity?

Hi! Are you asking me? Or someone else? Reason I ask is because you quoted where I mentioned that I use more sparge water and then boil longer, but then ask if I use more sparge water and boil longer. So I'm confused. Wink

Kal

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champ



Joined: 01 Jan 2018
Posts: 20



PostLink    Posted: Sun Jan 27, 2019 12:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
champ wrote:
Are you using extra sparge water to extract as much sugars as possible and then boiling longer to boil off more water to get to your fermenter volume and starting gravity?

Hi! Are you asking me? Or someone else? Reason I ask is because you quoted where I mentioned that I use more sparge water and then boil longer, but then ask if I use more sparge water and boil longer. So I'm confused. Wink

Kal


Asking you. You said you sparged longer. Wanted to be clear what you meant.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10196
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Sun Jan 27, 2019 4:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I sparged longer in order to collect more in the boil kettle and then boiled longer to compensate. So yes to all that you wrote.

Kal

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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10196
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Sun Oct 27, 2019 8:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Recipe has been re-written and moved to our new site.

See: https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/pages/russian-imperial-stout-bourbon-barrel-aged

This thread will remain open for questions. Cheers!

Kal

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windquest



Joined: 13 May 2018
Posts: 21
Location: Apache Jct, AZ


PostLink    Posted: Fri Dec 06, 2019 6:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kal,
Just brewed this but I didn't have enough water to extract 15.8 gal. (From the original 20 gal HLT) Did I do something wrong or did my grain just suck up more water? As it turned out I added 1 gal additional water to the boil kettle, and boiled 2 hours. My OG is perfect. But should I have to add additional water over and above the 20 gal? This looks like it will be a winner....Oak cubes soaking.....

Thanks,

Henry
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10196
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Fri Dec 06, 2019 2:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

windquest wrote:
Kal,
Just brewed this but I didn't have enough water to extract 15.8 gal. (From the original 20 gal HLT) Did I do something wrong or did my grain just suck up more water? As it turned out I added 1 gal additional water to the boil kettle, and boiled 2 hours. My OG is perfect. But should I have to add additional water over and above the 20 gal? This looks like it will be a winner....Oak cubes soaking.....


Hi Henry,

See the first bullet in the notes/process section of the recipe:
  • Add 625mg potassium metabisulphite to 25 gallons water to remove chlorine / chloramine (if required). (Given the high amount of grain used and longer boil time, with 20 gallon kettles you will need to fill the HLT and MLT separately with water).
Exactly right that the amount of water required with the 12 gallon batch as documented with 20 gallon kettles will be more than 20 gallons because of the extra grain soaking up water. Simply fill the two kettles separately and start heating that way. You can do this for any beer, but I don't because then I'm required to measure out two separate additions of potassium metabisulphite that will vary in amount based on how much water I have in each. It's quicker/easier to simply always fill the HLT to 20 gallons and add the same amount of potassium metabisulphite each time. Completely up to you of course. Some people use a smaller HLT and are always required to split the strike/sparge water right from the start.

Enjoy the beer!

Kal

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windquest



Joined: 13 May 2018
Posts: 21
Location: Apache Jct, AZ


PostLink    Posted: Fri Dec 06, 2019 4:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Kal for the quick reply......I totally missed the first bullet point, but compensated non the less. This is my 4th brew on the clone system so there are lots of things to sort out, but the list is smaller than the 1st. Thanks for all you do.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10196
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Fri Dec 06, 2019 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're welcome! Happy brewing and enjoy the RIS!

Kal

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