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Tungsten
Joined: 06 Dec 2014 Posts: 318 Location: Buffalo, NY
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Link Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 12:47 am Post subject: |
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Thanks! We think they will really pop when the new lighting goes in and drywall goes up. Not that I know of - it seemed to require a certain level of know-how. The process was:
1. Grind the surface/open pores
2. Put down sealant
3. Put down base coat
4. Put down decorative coat/swirl
5. Apply clear top coat
That was the amount of days it took too.
Rustoleum makes a similar product that you could DIY called RockSolid but it seems to have mixed reviews. I wouldn’t try it personally but someone more handy might .
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Tungsten
Joined: 06 Dec 2014 Posts: 318 Location: Buffalo, NY
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Link Posted: Mon Jul 09, 2018 2:25 pm Post subject: |
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Finished electrical wiring in the basement yesterday. The 50a circuit worked perfectly, tested correctly when testing the GFI functionality (ie it didn't work), and the other breakers for the basement were installed too. Still need to verify each of the receptacles on those circuits but I'm not concerned as I have wired tons of these circuits before.
Current timing: drywall and paint in August, hoping for the inaugural brew in September!
(Sorry, no pictures right now, but will take some when I have a chance)
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Tungsten
Joined: 06 Dec 2014 Posts: 318 Location: Buffalo, NY
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Link Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2018 8:32 pm Post subject: |
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Not the best lighting, but here's the progress with all studs, electrical (except recessed lights), and plumbing. Things are picking up speed...
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Tungsten
Joined: 06 Dec 2014 Posts: 318 Location: Buffalo, NY
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Link Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2018 11:49 pm Post subject: |
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I'm considering "mounting" (aka securing) the pumps to the stand with neodymium magnets placed underneath the bottom shelf of the brew stand. What I didn't think of is, will the magnets interfere with the pumps' operation? They are magnetic drive, after all (but I know very little about the physics behind how it works).
Thoughts?
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Tungsten
Joined: 06 Dec 2014 Posts: 318 Location: Buffalo, NY
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Link Posted: Fri Jul 27, 2018 5:45 pm Post subject: |
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Drywaller making progress!
I still have my question about magnets holding in place the magnetic drive pumps - anyone have any ideas?
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Tungsten
Joined: 06 Dec 2014 Posts: 318 Location: Buffalo, NY
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Link Posted: Sat Jul 28, 2018 7:44 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Kal. They're very strong, but through the bottom of the shelf so they're not that strong where the pump is.
The panel is alive!
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Tungsten
Joined: 06 Dec 2014 Posts: 318 Location: Buffalo, NY
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Link Posted: Thu Aug 23, 2018 12:06 am Post subject: |
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Question!
When wiring the Element On lights (220V), I didn't check the instructions and wired it "free hand," so to speak. The wiring is like this:
Hot A (black): Hot bus > one side of the 3-way switch (NO) > light and mechanical relay
Hot B (red): Mechanical relay > breaker (in place of a breaker) > light and element receptacle
I realized after that the instructions call for the Hot A line to be wired the same as Hot B (wiring to the light doesn't happen until after the relay & breaker). I'm thinking there's no difference in functionality based on how I wired it, but is there?
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Tungsten
Joined: 06 Dec 2014 Posts: 318 Location: Buffalo, NY
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Link Posted: Thu Aug 23, 2018 2:19 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the response Kal. The panel is different in that it has an extra element; but the 3-way selector switch and related elements (1 in the HLT and 1 in the BK) is identical.
I know that your instructions wire them in parallel; I just did it a little differently (as described) and was wondering if that would negatively impact anything at all before I ripped out the existing wiring.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Tungsten
Joined: 06 Dec 2014 Posts: 318 Location: Buffalo, NY
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Link Posted: Thu Aug 23, 2018 5:45 pm Post subject: |
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Here's the relevant schematic. Orange and green in the schematic are black, I just made them different colors in this picture so they stand out.
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Tungsten
Joined: 06 Dec 2014 Posts: 318 Location: Buffalo, NY
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Link Posted: Tue Sep 04, 2018 3:49 pm Post subject: |
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Couple updates!
1. After some troubleshooting and fixes (minor leaks and a GFI trip), I brewed for the first time this weekend! Picture below. Everything went well - especially the ventilation which I only installed Saturday. The drips worked perfectly through the drip hole of the fan, as intended, and a couple spots where I need more tape, but that's an easy fix. The fan conveniently drips right into the sink, which is great.
2. To answer the last question I posted: yes you can wire the element lights that way, but it won't have the intended affect (the light will be on whenever the elements switches are engaged regardless of when the SSR allows the circuit to close). This wasn't a showstopper but I'll fix the light wiring in the future.
3. The amp meter didn't work . I'll check my wiring on it, but I'm getting 5 vDC at the power supplies and at the meter so I'm thinking that it at least should have turned on regardless of the shunt wiring, right? Would the meter blow if one of those connections was off, somehow? In the grand scheme of things, it didn't gate my brew, so not a huge deal.
4. Boil-off was much greater than I was used to, but I expected that and brewed anyway so I know how short I'd be. Where I normally start with 8 gallons and end up with 5.5, this time I started with 8.25 gallons and ended with about 4.5. Pretty much right what I had guessed, but now I know exactly what my equipment profile needs to be.
Brewing is much better when everything is in a few steps.
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dtapke
Joined: 26 Oct 2018 Posts: 12 Location: Portage, Wisconsin
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Link Posted: Fri Nov 09, 2018 6:16 pm Post subject: |
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Did you change your boil control to Auto after achieving a boil? I use 30g kettles and a blichmann boilermaker coil and I only get about 1.3g per hour boil off.
_________________ Draft: Electric hop candy Jr, Milk Stout
Fermenting: Tripppel
Next brew up: Dopplebock
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Fri Nov 09, 2018 6:29 pm Post subject: |
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dtapke wrote: | Did you change your boil control to Auto after achieving a boil? I use 30g kettles and a blichmann boilermaker coil and I only get about 1.3g per hour boil off. |
Hi and welcome to the forum!
You can't boil using AUTO mode (temperature control) as the boil will either be on or off. There's no way to control the vigorousness. For example, say wort boils at 212F where you live. Setting it to 211 will turn the element off completely once it goes above 211. It will sit there until it cools off, and then heat up to 212F again. Setting it to 213F and it'll never reach that as it can't, so you're boiling with 100% power (element on 100% of the time). Set it to 212F and it'll probably turn on and off someone randomly as it tries to maintain. It may be on 100% for a minute or so, then go off completely for another minute and cool off before coming back on. That's not what we want/doesn't work.
You want to run a boil kettle PID in MANUAL mode so that it's on for a percentage of time for every second or two. Example: Set it to 50% and then it goes on for 1 second and off for 1 second.
I use 20G kettles to brew 11-12 gallons (post boil) and run my boil kettle in MANUAL at 100% until it gets to boil then turn it down to 85%.
I set the PID to alarm at 208F so it warns me as I'm getting to boil. If I know I'm running around the house doing other things, I will use AUTO mode and actually set the PID to 208F too. This way it gets to 208F and holds without going over and causing a boilover mess, and the alarm sounds. I then switch to manual and keep going.
More info: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/boil-kettle?page=4
Cheers!
Kal
_________________ Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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dtapke
Joined: 26 Oct 2018 Posts: 12 Location: Portage, Wisconsin
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Link Posted: Fri Nov 09, 2018 8:47 pm Post subject: |
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I do exactly like you outlined, I guess i just wasn't thinking when i typed that! My boil coil runs at 80% and can keep a light rolling boil when doing that, getting my 1.3-1.5 gallons boil off per hour in 32g SS brewtech kettle.
long and short of it, 4.25 gallons of boil off seems WAY excessive!
_________________ Draft: Electric hop candy Jr, Milk Stout
Fermenting: Tripppel
Next brew up: Dopplebock
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Ozarks Mountain Brew
Joined: 22 May 2013 Posts: 737 Location: The Ozark Mountains of Missouri
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Link Posted: Fri Nov 09, 2018 9:56 pm Post subject: |
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my boil off is 3 gallons in 90 minutes but I have a wide 25 gallon pot
edit: and my humidity is very high here I'm sure that doesn't help
_________________ "Imagination is more important than knowledge. Knowledge is limited. Imagination encircles the world."
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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JMD887
Joined: 31 Jan 2018 Posts: 120 Location: Akron, Ohio
Drinking: Two Hearted Ale
Working on: American Red IPA
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Link Posted: Fri Nov 09, 2018 10:30 pm Post subject: |
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Tungsten- not sure how its taken me this long to read your thread.... Totally Loving the floors, looks great with all the stainless steel!
Nice work!
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