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Yeast attenuation low/FG too high

 
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lasersnake




Joined: 23 Jan 2018
Posts: 10



PostLink    Posted: Sun Jul 22, 2018 10:34 am    Post subject: Yeast attenuation low/FG too high Reply with quote


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Hi Team,

Ever since I have been using my electric brewery (fairly similar to Kals but with 10gal kettles to make 5gal batches but the sensing and heating characteristics are all the same) I have been having attenuation problems and not hitting my FG. There has been 5 batches now.

Previous to this set up I was using a robobrew and never didn't hit an FG, but now I am generally 5 points over on every beer. The fact it is consistent and the only thing that has changed in my process is going from robo to herms makes me very suspicious.

I have been getting yeast attenuation of a couple of percent lower then the minimum usually listed on the packs and I have changed up the methods of pitching (big starters, decanted starter, dry yeast rehydrated & liquid straight from the pouch) in to well aerated wort but still have the consistent 5-6 points above.

All things point towards a mash temp issue, I usually nail my strike water temp and by the time i have stirred the grains in it is sitting at my desired mash temp and doesnt move for the hour i am mashing (maybe takes 2-3mins to stabilise).

I have tested the temp in the mash tun with 3 different thermometers and they read the same as on my PID controllers, but am wondering if there is a problem with it being hotter at the top of the mash tun where the water enters compared to the outlet where the temp is actually controlled off and if I need to adjust my mash temp in my recipes a couple of degrees?

I see a few people have forum posts about this but they always seem to disappear and never post again so wondering if anyone has any advice or experience here?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11121
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Sun Jul 22, 2018 1:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can you post some pictures of your setup and more details on the equipment you use?

Do you recirculate your mash pump at max speed (100%) to ensure even temperature? You should not have a noticeable difference in temp between the top and bottom of the mash.

Can you provide an example recipe with all the numbers and details? Including the amount of and type of yeast pitched, and how fermentation was done.

What were the numbers for these 5 batches? All 5 always being 5 points high on FG sounds odd - almost as if there's an issue with how FG is being read maybe? That said, how are you reading FG before on the robobrew and now on the HERMS setup?

Any two systems will have variances in the beer they produce due to differences in the process used. Part of the trick of learning a new setup is learning the process that works on that specific system. The process I use and recommend on this design is here: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/brew-day-step-by-step
5 points in FG sounds too high to just be a mash temp issue (I find that mash temp doesn't have as huge an effect on FG as the actual recipe does) so I'd be curious to see/read what sort of recipes you're making. How many of these beers were also made on the robobrew? What sort of mash efficiency were you getting on the robobrew? What are you getting now on the HERMS setup? How were the recipes modified to switch from the robobrew to the HERMS setup?

How many batches did you brew on the robobrew?

The more info the better. Right now we unfortunately don't really have anything to go on. It's likely something very simple/straightforward. (It usually always is, like switching to using a different way of measuring FG such as a using a refractometer which can't be used for FG measurements).

Cheers!

Kal

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lasersnake




Joined: 23 Jan 2018
Posts: 10



PostLink    Posted: Sun Jul 22, 2018 11:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah sorry there was a bit of lack of information.

kal wrote:
Do you recirculate your mash pump at max speed (100%) to ensure even temperature? You should not have a noticeable difference in temp between the top and bottom of the mash.


My mash procedure I heat the strike water to a few degrees (celsius) above my desired mash temp then stir in the grains to ensure no clumps or balls then start my recirculation (valves fully open). Within a min or two the mash temp is where i want it to be and it will hold that temp for as long as I want (very impressive design you have done Kal). My hoses are all about 3 ft long and I actually insulate the hoses with pipe lagging because it can be pretty cold out in the garage here in New Zealand. I also insulate the mash tun (not shown in photos). I do have a bit of a discrepancy between the mash temp and the HLT of 2 degree C (3.5ish f) but I know this and set my PID accordingly and get the desired temps I want. The top of the mash tun i would estimate is 1-1.5 degree C more than the outlet so nothing too significant.

kal wrote:
Can you provide an example recipe with all the numbers and details? Including the amount of and type of yeast pitched, and how fermentation was done.


Example recipe from beersmith is a Red IPA I did a couple of brews back, I did a 26L batch which is a bit weird but I wanted a little extra left over. There are quite a few mineral additions in the recipe which adds confusing but just know I have my water tested and I am aware of whats going on there.

Stout Recipe - http://beersmithrecipes.com/viewrecipe/2024335/hopped-stout

5.2kg Ale Malt
0.27kg Carafa II
0.27kg Crystal Medium
0.27kg Crystal Dark
0.27kg Chocolate Wheat
0.27kg Special W
0.10kg Roasted Barley

I will ignore hops for now but if you want to see them follow the beersmith link.

Estimated OG = 1.059
Measured OG = 1.059

Estimated FG = 1.013
Measured FG = 1.019

I used a 2l starter with WLP001 in to well aerated wort.

I fermented in a plastic conical (Fermentasaurus) inside a temperate controlled fridge (temp + or - 0.1 deg C) Starting at 21deg for 24 hours lowered to 19.5 for 7 days then raised to 21 for another 3 days where fermentation had well and truely stopped.

kal wrote:
What were the numbers for these 5 batches? All 5 always being 5 points high on FG sounds odd - almost as if there's an issue with how FG is being read maybe? That said, how are you reading FG before on the robobrew and now on the HERMS setup?


Now that I am paranoid about my FG I seem to read it way more often and using different methods than is probably necessary. I generally just take a hydrometer reading at 20deg (which the hydrometer is calibrated for) but the last couple of batches I have taken readings while it is at 20deg in the fermented and also after I have crash cooled and gelatin fined (so taking the final product before its carb'd) then warmed back to 20deg. I use two hydrometers and they both read the same! Both samples from the fined version and the fermented condition version are very similar. My fermenting process hasn't changed from my Robobrew to the EB so the FG readings are taken the same way.

I could post my numbers for all the brews I have done on this system but this post is probably already long enough?

kal wrote:
5 points in FG sounds too high to just be a mash temp issue (I find that mash temp doesn't have as huge an effect on FG as the actual recipe does) so I'd be curious to see/read what sort of recipes you're making. How many of these beers were also made on the robobrew? What sort of mash efficiency were you getting on the robobrew? What are you getting now on the HERMS setup? How were the recipes modified to switch from the robobrew to the HERMS setup?

How many batches did you brew on the robobrew?


You're right, after playing with mash profile numbers in Beersmith the temp would need to be significantly out which I am fairly confident it is not.

Mash efficiency on the robobrew was about 75% and brewhouse was about 72%... on my EB I have a mash efficiency of 78% (I was getting 70% but I have a seperate forum post on that) and a brewhouse of 66%. I havent done a lot of the same recipes on the EB vs the robobrew but I should do a test where I do the same recipe on the robobrew vs the EB at some stage, but the couple that I did do I changed the quantities of hops and grain to compensate for different volumes and efficiencies (all done via beersmith).

Here is a sample of some of the recipes I have done - http://beersmithrecipes.com/listrecipes/143366/lasersnake

I did about 15-20 batches on the robobrew and the results were all really consistent, this was my first introduction in to home brewing so there was definitely some learning curve but all beers came out good!



Appologies about the long post... I would love to get to the bottom of this but I have a feeling it might be one of those things that go into the unexplained basket.

Here are some photos of my system, I do have several fermenters (two stainless SS Brewbuckets and one Plastic Conical Fermentasaurus... pictured is the two SS ones obviously). Ignore the mess... I am about to do a deep clean on these and the area.

EDIT:Sorry my images didnt work very well so I have had to attach them.



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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11121
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Sun Jul 22, 2018 11:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the info!

Your Stout recipe has 22% unfermentables in it which is really high. To go from 59 to 13 is 77% attenuation, near the midrange for the yeast in question but with 22% unfermentables I think you’re asking for too much.

Kal

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lasersnake




Joined: 23 Jan 2018
Posts: 10



PostLink    Posted: Mon Jul 23, 2018 12:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
Thanks for the info!

Your Stout recipe has 22% unfermentables in it which is really high. To go from 59 to 13 is 77% attenuation, near the midrange for the yeast in question but with 22% unfermentables I think you’re asking for too much.

Kal


That recipe is probably a bad example... it is a clone from a brewery for a competition. I usually try to stick to 10% or under with unfermentables but all recipes were created in beersmith with their ingredient profiles I would have thought the software accounts for unfermentables and spits out realistic estimated FG?
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11121
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Mon Jul 23, 2018 1:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure about beersmith, but the brewing software I’ve used doesn’t account for it. Try a simple recipe with all domestic 2-row compared to all crystal something. See what happens.

Software estimates of FG are horribly inaccurate as it’s a really complex thing to try and calculate. Every malt has a different fermentability (it can even vary from batch to batch), every yeast is different, mash temp and thickness affects it, plus dozens of other factors.

Kal

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lasersnake




Joined: 23 Jan 2018
Posts: 10



PostLink    Posted: Mon Jul 23, 2018 9:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am pretty confident beersmith does all that for you (after playing with a few recipes and watching the numbers move around).

Here is a better example of recipes I just kegged;

6Foot5 IPA - 23l Batch

6.35kg Pale Malt (93%)
0.16kg Cara-Pils (2.3%)
0.16kg Medium Crystal (2.3%)
0.16kg Vienna (2.3%)

3 Packs of Mangrove Jacks M44 rehydrated. Fermented at 19.5deg for 7 days then slow rise to 21 for 5 days.

Estimated OG = 1.062
Actual OG = 1.061

Estimated FG = 1.011
Actual FG = 1.016


And the other batch;

S Bomb IPA - 23l Batch

6.60kg Pale Malt (89.6%)
0.77kg Medium Crystal (10.4%)

2l Starter with WLP001. Fermented at 19.5deg for 7 days then slow rise to 21 for 5 days.

Estimated OG = 1.066
Actual OG = 1.065

Estimated FG = 1.013
Actual FG = 1.019

It is strange that every batch I do is consistently 5-6 points over on FG, regardless of recipe. The attenuation is 70ish % which is off the lower end of the scale for these yeasts!
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11121
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Mon Jul 23, 2018 10:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lasersnake wrote:
I am pretty confident beersmith does all that for you (after playing with a few recipes and watching the numbers move around).

I would be very surprised. You can make the estimated FG change by changing the mash schedule in beersmith or the water to grist ratio? Or by swapping a pound of domestic 2-row for carapils? Even things like pitch rate and fermentation temp can affect attenuation and those are most likely not things you enter into a recipe tool like beersmith. That said, I've never used the most recent version.

That's a bit of an aside however. I'm not sure what you're doing differently to give you higher than expected FG.

It's odd that all recipes seem affected but you did mention that you haven't done the same recipe on both yet to compare, so maybe it's just coincidence? No idea! Sorry! Maybe someone else has suggestions. You may want to also ask on a more ‘generic’ brewing forum like HomeBrewTalk as your questions aren’t specific to this HERMS design. You’ll get more eyes on your questions.

Cheers!

Kal

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Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
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Tungsten




Joined: 06 Dec 2014
Posts: 318
Location: Buffalo, NY


PostLink    Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2018 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I fermented in a plastic conical (Fermentasaurus) inside a temperate controlled fridge (temp + or - 0.1 deg C) Starting at 21deg for 24 hours lowered to 19.5 for 7 days then raised to 21 for another 3 days where fermentation had well and truely stopped.


I'm just curious... why are you doing this? If you want to ferment at 19.5 degrees, then start there from the point of pitching yeast if you can. It's not a huge difference in temperature, but it is curious... and yeast are temperamental creatures.
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lasersnake




Joined: 23 Jan 2018
Posts: 10



PostLink    Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2018 11:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tungsten wrote:
Quote:
I fermented in a plastic conical (Fermentasaurus) inside a temperate controlled fridge (temp + or - 0.1 deg C) Starting at 21deg for 24 hours lowered to 19.5 for 7 days then raised to 21 for another 3 days where fermentation had well and truely stopped.


I'm just curious... why are you doing this? If you want to ferment at 19.5 degrees, then start there from the point of pitching yeast if you can. It's not a huge difference in temperature, but it is curious... and yeast are temperamental creatures.


Just following instructions from white labs... they say pitch at 21deg then lower to prefered fermentation temp once the fermentation has started. I am sure I have read a brulosophy experiment where they tested this.
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lasersnake




Joined: 23 Jan 2018
Posts: 10



PostLink    Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2018 11:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
lasersnake wrote:
I am pretty confident beersmith does all that for you (after playing with a few recipes and watching the numbers move around).

I would be very surprised. You can make the estimated FG change by changing the mash schedule in beersmith or the water to grist ratio? Or by swapping a pound of domestic 2-row for carapils? Even things like pitch rate and fermentation temp can affect attenuation and those are most likely not things you enter into a recipe tool like beersmith. That said, I've never used the most recent version.

That's a bit of an aside however. I'm not sure what you're doing differently to give you higher than expected FG.

It's odd that all recipes seem affected but you did mention that you haven't done the same recipe on both yet to compare, so maybe it's just coincidence? No idea! Sorry! Maybe someone else has suggestions. You may want to also ask on a more ‘generic’ brewing forum like HomeBrewTalk as your questions aren’t specific to this HERMS design. You’ll get more eyes on your questions.

Cheers!

Kal


Thanks for all your help Kal..

I have another question that could be related here but might be a can of worms.

Why do we measure the temp of the mash tun at the outlet valve compared to the inlet valve? I know you say they shouldnt be very different at all I am just wondering what the logic is!

Cheers
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11121
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Tue Jul 24, 2018 11:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It’s to know when the entire mash bed is at temperature as that’s what we care about. We already know the temp at the MLT input. That’s the HLT temp. Check out my temp probe and MLT build articles for complete details.

Early on (~10 years ago) I did some tests and the temp at the MLT input always matched what my HLT PID displayed (which makes sense). So no point in measuring there. If the equipment or process is different (ie: using thinner hoses, not recirculating as fast, or something else) then you may get different results.

Kal

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