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Bohemian Pilsner
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10136
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Tue Aug 01, 2017 4:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote


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Enjoy the beer! Let us know how it turns out!

Kal

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Swampale



Joined: 16 Dec 2010
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Location: Cavan, Ont.


PostLink    Posted: Fri Dec 22, 2017 11:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why is there so much of a difference in the water profile compared to a basic lager. Isn't a lager a lager?
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10136
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Fri Dec 22, 2017 2:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nope! A lager simply means that a lager yeast was used. It doesnít describe the taste. One of the characteristic traits of a bo pils is the incredibly soft water that is used (water with very little minerals in it) and how it affects the taste. From the recipe:

Quote:
Softer water (low in minerals) is required to brew a true Bohemian Pilsner. While hard water accentuates up-front hop-bitterness, soft water suppresses it. Because of the soft water, the bitterness is rounded, not rough, in spite of the relatively high hop loading. If your water is high in minerals, try cutting it with reverse osmosis (or distilled) water to reach the target numbers outlined in the recipe below. 50% reverse osmosis (or distilled) water reduces the mineral counts by half.


Try brewing it twice to see the diffence it makes to the taste: once with the recommended water profile, then again with the profile from my German Pils recipe.

For more info on water profiles and how they affect the beer, see my WATER ADJUSTMENT article: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/water-adjustment

Cheers!

Kal

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rivetcatcher



Joined: 21 Apr 2016
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PostLink    Posted: Sun May 13, 2018 9:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you were to choose between this and the German Pils recipe, which would you go for? Iím struggling to choose. I will be using dried Fermentis yeast as I canít get anything else here.

Thanks

Rivet
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10136
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Sun May 13, 2018 12:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rivetcatcher wrote:
If you were to choose between this and the German Pils recipe, which would you go for? Iím struggling to choose.

I wouldn't make one over the other based on what others prefer as what someone else prefers isn't necessarily what you'd prefer.

Really depends what you're after. I'd read the descriptions and decide which better meets your needs. See: https://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style02.php

Then compare 2A (German Pils) with 2B (Bohemian Pils).

Happy brewing!

Kal

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rivetcatcher



Joined: 21 Apr 2016
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PostLink    Posted: Tue May 15, 2018 3:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think I will go for the Bohemian Pilsner and use Safw34/70. How many packs of yeast do you think I should use?
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10136
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Tue May 15, 2018 4:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rivetcatcher wrote:
I think I will go for the Bohemian Pilsner and use Safw34/70. How many packs of yeast do you think I should use?

I'd use at least 48-60g Fermentis Saflager W-34/70 dry lager yeast per 12 gallons, and chill to pitch temp before pitching. Ferment at 50-52F.

Kal

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Last edited by kal on Tue Nov 12, 2019 8:35 pm; edited 1 time in total
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rivetcatcher



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PostLink    Posted: Tue May 15, 2018 4:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was reading the directions for Saf w34/70 and it states 52 to 54.... will it be ok at 50?
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
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Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Tue May 15, 2018 5:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes.

Kal

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rivetcatcher



Joined: 21 Apr 2016
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PostLink    Posted: Tue May 15, 2018 6:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Kal
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10136
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Wed May 16, 2018 12:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Happy brewing! Let us know how it turns out.

Kal

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rivetcatcher



Joined: 21 Apr 2016
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Location: Thailand

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PostLink    Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brewed this around 2 weeks ago and it is almost ready to go in the keg. I had to let this cool naturally as my immersion chiller hose fitting was screwed and I couldn't get out to get a new one. It took around 3 days to get to pitching temp. I used Saf w-34/70 dry yeast and fermented at 50f. Measured the gravity after 1 week and it was down to 1.012.... that was a shock, didn't expect it to ferment so fast at those temps. Immediately ramped up the temp to 65f on Sunday and then back down to 37f on Tuesday evening. Took another reading and it is down to around 1.009 - 1.010. It was lucky that I checked the gravity when I did or I could've missed the diacetyl rest. I was expecting fermentation to last around 2 weeks.

Anyway, I took a sample from the fermenter and it is tasting fantastic. No off flavors, no buttery diacetyl and I think its going to end up great. I will keg tomorrow and add the gelatin to the keg.

This is my first Pilsner and so far Im really happy with the results. Lets see how the lagering effects it but to be honest I could easily drink it now.

Rivet
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10136
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 1:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad it's worked out!

I'm also glad to hear that the 3 days of slow chill didn't cause any issues!

Kal

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rivetcatcher



Joined: 21 Apr 2016
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PostLink    Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 1:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ive experimented a lot with cooling / not cooling in the past and in all honesty have never noticed any difference at all.... to the point that I almost believe its a brewing myth in most cases. Clarity etc has never been affected.
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10136
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 3:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Aussie brewers would agree with that ... they pretty much patented the "no chill" method. My main concern would be something else taking hold of the wort and starting to ferment it. You'd have to make sure to keep it somewhat sealed up, but then as it cools it shrinks so air gets sucked in unless you have something fancy to prevent atmosphere from entering...

Kal

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rivetcatcher



Joined: 21 Apr 2016
Posts: 119
Location: Thailand

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PostLink    Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 11:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah Iíd have to say I agree with the Aussies. I normally put the lid on the fermenter loosely to prevent any insects etc getting in and then put the airlock on. Air sucks in through the loose lid and doesnít pull airlock water in. It doesnít matter if air gets pulled in during the cooling stage as the yeast is still to be pitched and the wort will be aerated anyway.

Iíve never had an infection when Iíve done it this way and as mentioned I havenít noticed any difference taste wise of clarity wise. For me the main benefit of chilling the wort is that I can pitch the yeast right away after the boil.
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10136
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2018 11:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rivetcatcher wrote:
It doesnít matter if air gets pulled in during the cooling stage as the yeast is still to be pitched and the wort will be aerated anyway.

I'd have to disagree with that, to a point. Aerating for 2 minutes and then pitching yeast immediately is one thing. Allowing wort to be in contact with atmosphere for 2-3 days and then pitching yeast is another.

When air is pulled in it's a mix of all the regular stuff like Nitrogen, Oxygen, and other gases, but it also contains natural occurring microorganisms. Microorganism that want to eat that wort and turn it into something we don't want.

Fermentation is only a race. We don't brew in sterile environments. It's all about who goes big first. That means we want to pitch large amounts of yeast (the microorganism we want as it turns our wort into beer) before other airborn microorganisms we don't want can take hold and turn that wort into something we don't want.

So the sooner you pitch your yeast once you get into the temperature range that these microorganisms thrive in, the better. The risk is lower.

That doesn't mean you can't go 2-3 days to chill and still make good beer. It just means it's safer to always minimize the time where wort sits being in contact to atmosphere that is full is unwanted microorganisms.

Kal

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Last edited by kal on Thu Jun 21, 2018 12:00 pm; edited 1 time in total
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rivetcatcher



Joined: 21 Apr 2016
Posts: 119
Location: Thailand

Drinking: Timothy Taylor Landlord / Hop Candy Jr

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PostLink    Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2018 7:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah I agree with what you say. However, in all of the times Iíve chilled overnight I have never had an infection. Normally it is an overnight chill but because I needed the wort temp to be lower for the pils it took longer.
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Ozarks Mountain Brew



Joined: 22 May 2013
Posts: 737
Location: The Ozark Mountains of Missouri


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2018 4:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't do a no chill but I have Aussie friends that do and one makes a very clear blond I'll ask his process if needed but I do chill to high 70's sometimes and I ferment at 60 or below so I leave it in the chamber to cool that extra 10 or so degrees over night, its always worked
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rivetcatcher



Joined: 21 Apr 2016
Posts: 119
Location: Thailand

Drinking: Timothy Taylor Landlord / Hop Candy Jr

Working on: Juicy Bits


PostLink    Posted: Sat Sep 01, 2018 6:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brewed this a couple of months back and finally got to drink it. I have to say that this recipe is fantastic. Iím more of an ale drinker but this one just hits the spot. Everyone who has came to try this absolutely loves it... and I agree with them. This will be a regular for me.

As mentioned earlier in the thread, there was no wort chiller to cool this so it sat overnight until it came to temperature. There are no off flavours and it is crystal clear.

Give it a go.
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