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BeerTools Pro OR BeerSmith
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tkdjim



Joined: 22 Nov 2016
Posts: 54
Location: Derby, Kansas

Drinking: Scotch Ale

Working on: Moose Druel


PostLink    Posted: Tue May 15, 2018 12:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


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Now that is a good one Kal !! Loved it
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rivetcatcher



Joined: 21 Apr 2016
Posts: 120
Location: Thailand

Drinking: Timothy Taylor Landlord / Hop Candy Jr

Working on: Juicy Bits


PostLink    Posted: Wed May 16, 2018 12:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use Beersmith, bit of a hassle to setup but once you have your equipment profiles sorted out it is excellent. Easy to follow and scale to your exact equipment.

Try both and go with which one you feel comfortable with.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10196
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Wed May 16, 2018 1:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Creepy wrote:
5. Do the formulas used (ie Tinseth) for each differ drastically?

I'll offer the following comment on the above:

Even if they did, I don't think it matters.

There are about half a dozen ways to calculate bitterness in beer. Tinseth is one of them. It doesn't matter which of them is 'correct' as that's subjective, especially with hop forward beers where it's more about hop flavours added late to the boil and/or steeped instead of pure bitterness. What matters is taste and how harsh or clean the bitterness is. No calculator can tell you that. For example, you can make a RIS that (on paper) is 100 IBU that tastes a lot smoother and less bitter than a Blond Ale that (on paper) is 20 IBU. It's very subjective. (Those example numbers may be a bit of a stretch, but you get the idea).

I basically ignore IBUs for anything but beers where only straight 60 min additions are added, things like my light lagers, or a Kolsch, and so forth. But again, the hops matter too so for delicate beers like this I tend to go for noble hops and they're very clean tasting. If I was to use 'harsh' hops, I may want to use less hops.

For american style hop forward beers, I don't even look at where the IBU numbers end up.

I guess what I'm saying is that IBU isn't necessarily a bad thing, but I find far too many brewers focus on it as a 'target' when that's backwards. The 'target' should be how the beer tastes. Numbers only tell a small part of the story and especially with IBUs I find there are a lot of caveats. I think someone new to brewing would be well served to completely ignore it until they get a feel for when and how the number is meaningful. I see far too many times people mentioning "I don't like high IBU beers" and I just shake my head as it's all relative. It makes as little sense as someone who says "I don't like dark beers".

Kal

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