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Aligning Ball Valves with Lock Nuts so the Handle is on top

 
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mike0416




Joined: 03 Jan 2017
Posts: 62



PostLink    Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2018 3:24 pm    Post subject: Aligning Ball Valves with Lock Nuts so the Handle is on top Reply with quote


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Hi Kal,

This may be something that I'm missing or one of those 'duh' moments, but I ran into an issue I'm hoping I can get some assistance with. My ball valves coming out of the HLT from the HERMS coil were leaking a bit from the outside between the ball valve and the lock nut. To get rid of this I tried to put a little extra tape around the nipple but it still leaked a bit. The only way to truly stop the leak was to tighten the ball lock against the lock nut. This caused the handle to be more in between the top and the side, which bothers me because I'm a perfectionist like that. Anyway, I'm wondering what you suggest to be able to get the handle back on the top where it belongs!

As a parallel subject, do you have any helpful hints when building the brewery to make sure the ball lock handles are aligned on the top? I went through some trial and error on this while building it. If you do, it may be something other might be interested in when building the system. Unless, of course, I'm overlooking something that makes this simple, which is entirely possible!

Thanks,
Mike
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jcav




Joined: 21 Sep 2011
Posts: 205
Location: Central Florida


PostLink    Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2018 4:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use Loctite 55 pipe sealing cord instead of teflon tape. Works awesome and you can line up your ball valves anyway you desire. Excellent product and seals instantly with the ability to readjust to any position without having to take off and re-apply. Also seals with fewer turns with the wrench so there is a lot of room for alignment as you tighten the fitting down. Here is a link to a post I made on another site if you want to check it out.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/line-up-your-ball-valves-with-less-hassle.543536/

John

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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11122
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2018 4:59 pm    Post subject: Re: Aligning Ball Valves with Lock Nuts so the Handle is on Reply with quote

mike0416 wrote:
This may be something that I'm missing or one of those 'duh' moments, but I ran into an issue I'm hoping I can get some assistance with. My ball valves coming out of the HLT from the HERMS coil were leaking a bit from the outside between the ball valve and the lock nut. To get rid of this I tried to put a little extra tape around the nipple but it still leaked a bit. The only way to truly stop the leak was to tighten the ball lock against the lock nut. This caused the handle to be more in between the top and the side, which bothers me because I'm a perfectionist like that. Anyway, I'm wondering what you suggest to be able to get the handle back on the top where it belongs!

I'm assuming you meant this:



From here: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/hot-liquor-tank?page=4

Tighten the ball lock to the nipple first then place it through the HLT wall. Hold the assembly upright so that the valve is in the position you want, and tighten from the inside of the kettle. In other words, turn the compression fitting (part H) and not the ball valve (part B), as you don't care how many turns the compression fitting takes to go tight.

Same idea of the water input on the HLT:



When tightening, hold the ball valve in the position you want, and tighten coupler H. Not the other way around.

Same goes for the MLT input.

If I'm not mistaken, the only place where you have to actually tighten by turning the ball valve is the pumps. There I would simply use large wrenches and tighten until things line up. You can always do this another 1/4-3/4" if required.

Quote:
As a parallel subject, do you have any helpful hints when building the brewery to make sure the ball lock handles are aligned on the top? I went through some trial and error on this while building it.

Maybe I'm misunderstanding, but isn't this the same question you had above?

Other than the pumps, the general idea is to not turn the ball valves to tighten. Turn the other end. If you turn the ball valves, you never know what position they'll be in once tight.

Kal

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mike0416




Joined: 03 Jan 2017
Posts: 62



PostLink    Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2018 8:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yup, same question, Kal. I just didn't know if the compression fittings became an issue or not, which it does because I'd have to loosen that from the nipple and start over. Gonna try the Loctite 55 from jcav's post (thanks jcay) and see if I can fix it without it tightening down as much. Thanks Kal
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dp Brewing Company




Joined: 08 Jul 2013
Posts: 664
Location: Midwest

Drinking: Chocolate Taco, Raspberry Mango Cider, American X, Sandy Dunes

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PostLink    Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2018 2:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use bulkhead compression fittings for my coil and have had the same issue with the handles not lining up. I may try backing the valves back off and slipping on a nut. Then put the ball valve back on. This should allow me to lock the valve against the nut.
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rcrabb22




Joined: 23 Dec 2010
Posts: 462
Location: Illinois


PostLink    Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2018 1:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

For the pumps I went with 3 piece ball valves. Actually I went with 3 piece ball valves for all of them but that was my personal preference. Tighten the ball valve so the handle is at the 12, 3, 6 or 9 o'clock position then take the valve apart and reposition the handle as appropriate.
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dp Brewing Company




Joined: 08 Jul 2013
Posts: 664
Location: Midwest

Drinking: Chocolate Taco, Raspberry Mango Cider, American X, Sandy Dunes

Working on: Nothing


PostLink    Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2018 11:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

rcrabb22 wrote:
For the pumps I went with 3 piece ball valves. Actually I went with 3 piece ball valves for all of them but that was my personal preference. Tighten the ball valve so the handle is at the 12, 3, 6 or 9 o'clock position then take the valve apart and reposition the handle as appropriate.


Great tip!!

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KB




Joined: 06 Nov 2014
Posts: 334
Location: Virginia

Working on: Next brew


PostLink    Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2018 1:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jcav wrote:
I use Loctite 55 pipe sealing cord instead of teflon tape.


Interesting. Looks like dental floss. I know it's not dental floss, but looks like it.
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jcav




Joined: 21 Sep 2011
Posts: 205
Location: Central Florida


PostLink    Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2018 2:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

KB wrote:
jcav wrote:
I use Loctite 55 pipe sealing cord instead of teflon tape.


Interesting. Looks like dental floss. I know it's not dental floss, but looks like it.


You right it does look like dental floss. It has the Teflon stuff impregnated in the cord. Works great though and gets the job done very easily!

John

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