View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
rcrabb22
Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 462 Location: Illinois
|
Link Posted: Sat Jan 13, 2018 4:38 pm Post subject: Control Panel shut down |
|
|
An FYI post:
My brew day was cut short. I had reached strike temperature and finished transferring the strike water to the mash tun. I reset my HLT PID to the mash temperature and as I was reaching for the bucket of crushed grain to mash in my control panel shutdown. I checked the 30A breaker and it had not tripped. There was a smell of hot electric from the control panel and it seems the GFIC had tripped and shut down power to the CP.
I took the CP off the wall mount and to my work bench to trouble shoot. The HLT element and the water pump were the only things energized so I concentrated there. All looked ok and I made sure the wire connection screws were tight. The only thing I see of interest are some carbon deposits on all 4 blades of the male power in receptacle although each blade is not totally covered.
I will rebuild the female power connector on the power cord, give the blades a light sanding to remove the deposits and try it again.
On the bright side I don't have much of a mess to clean up if it is still a bust!
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
rcrabb22
Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 462 Location: Illinois
|
Link Posted: Fri Jan 19, 2018 6:14 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I am still looking for my issue. I can smell hot which I never smelled in the 5+ years I have used the CP. It is coming from the area of the HLT wiring (at least to my nose) specifically the HLT contactor or CP HLT female power receptacle. I do not see any melting wire insulation. I have verified all the connections are tight. I am wondering if the contactor itself is failing.
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
rcrabb22
Joined: 23 Dec 2010 Posts: 462 Location: Illinois
|
Link Posted: Mon Jan 22, 2018 6:50 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I hope I found my issue. I had replaced the rusted heating element with the SS version. in the HOW TO: Replacing heating elements thread,
http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=28904
I had offered a tip
Quote: | One tip is to loosen the wire connecting screws before installing the element. One of the screws was cranked down so tight the whole element started to twist in the direction I was turning the screw. I had to use the element wrench to steady the element to finally break the screw free. I was worried I would need to uninstall the element. |
When the element twisted it did not twist the whole element as it was already secured as tight I make it. The element connection structure itself twisted in the element housing and I am guessing compromised the physical connections between the element connection attachment screw assembly and the cal-rods. I know this because when the element connection structure twisted the element itself remained oriented as I had installed it. In hindsight I do not think my use of the element wrench aided in the loosening of the screw either. When I energized the old element I could not detect any hot electrical smell after 40 minutes operation.
Of course I introduced some additional variables since I disconnected the ring terminals from the SS element and reattached them to the older element.
I'll report back when I reinstall the SS element.
As an aside, I am getting pretty good at element installation
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
|
|