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ctshoyt
Joined: 16 Mar 2017
Posts: 20
Location: Manitoba, Canada
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 Link Posted: Wed Jan 03, 2018 11:19 pm Post subject: Moving Door Grounding Post |
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So I am not to impressed with myself this early into the project. I planned everything out to what I thought was perfect. When I went to cut the 22mm holes, one of them wàs in the way of the grounding post. So I moved 2 holes up so it was not in the way of the post. Well turns out I forgot about the back of the switch being larger then the hole and it is about 2mm away from the post.
Couple questions;
1. Can I bent the ground so it all works. I'm 99.9% sure this is a no but i have to ask.
2. Seeing as I probably have to move the ground, is their a way I can fill the holes back in and recut then lower in the original spot?
I will post some pictures when I get back home so it makes a little more sense.
Thanks for your help!
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kal
Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11122
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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| Link Posted: Wed Jan 03, 2018 11:34 pm Post subject: Re: Moving Door Grounding Post |
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| ctshoyt wrote: | | 1. Can I bent the ground so it all works. I'm 99.9% sure this is a no but i have to ask. |
When you post pics, can you show what you mean by this? Did you mean "Can I bend the ground post" maybe?
| Quote: | | 2. Seeing as I probably have to move the ground, is their a way I can fill the holes back in and recut then lower in the original spot? |
Sure. Use some JB Weld from the inside to attach the 22mm punched out hole (assuming you have one) or a small disk of some sort. Also use the JB Weld to fill in any gaps, sand, paint, etc. Trick is doing it somewhat cleanly so that it doesn't take hours of work to make it appear flat again like nothing happened.
The pics will help I think.
Good luck!
Kal
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My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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ctshoyt
Joined: 16 Mar 2017
Posts: 20
Location: Manitoba, Canada
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| Link Posted: Thu Jan 04, 2018 12:42 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for a fast reply.
Yes, that is totally what I mean. To bend the ground post on the door.
Also I moved the cut hole up 11mm, so both holes will intersect each other. Guessing i would have to cut the new hole and then somehow patch up the first one leaving the "good" hole at 22mm.
Also to note this is a build with one PID and one timer I'n the 2 pre cut dim slots case from auber instruments.
So mad with myself.
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kal
Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11122
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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| Link Posted: Thu Jan 04, 2018 1:00 am Post subject: |
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Bending a ground post may not be the best choice, but should be fine as long as it doesn't weaken.
Kal
_________________
Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
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My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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GlennMcD
Joined: 07 Oct 2013
Posts: 51
Location: Louisiana
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| Link Posted: Thu Jan 04, 2018 4:52 pm Post subject: |
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When I added the brewery tag, I used one longer bolt for the ground.
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ctshoyt
Joined: 16 Mar 2017
Posts: 20
Location: Manitoba, Canada
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| Link Posted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 5:49 am Post subject: |
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Looking like I'm going to have to move the ground post now that I can see it again, should have been more careful. Ya looks like i will just skip the interlock unless I have room after moving the ground.
Will have to add the pictures tomorrow from my computer. Getting nothing but "tried to load empty file" with my phone. File size might be to big.
Last edited by ctshoyt on Fri Jan 05, 2018 3:17 pm; edited 1 time in total
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ctshoyt
Joined: 16 Mar 2017
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Location: Manitoba, Canada
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| Link Posted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 3:16 pm Post subject: |
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Here are the pictures;
Thanks!
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kal
Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11122
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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| Link Posted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 3:27 pm Post subject: |
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I'd probably see if you could bend the ground post. Or if you've got another bolt you're installing use GlennMcD's hint (though that's probably more useful if building to our design - you may not have a nameplate to install with bolts).
Kal
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My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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ctshoyt
Joined: 16 Mar 2017
Posts: 20
Location: Manitoba, Canada
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| Link Posted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 4:47 pm Post subject: |
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| kal wrote: | I'd probably see if you could bend the ground post. Or if you've got another bolt you're installing use GlennMcD's hint (though that's probably more useful if building to our design - you may not have a nameplate to install with bolts).
Kal |
I do plan on getting some label tags and a logo name plate from your links so that could be an option for sure. I Think i will try to bend the ground first as that is the easiest solution. I'm still waiting for some parts to come in so I wont be able to actually start painting and assembling for a while yet.
Thanks for everyone's help, much appreciated!!
Chad
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701pilot
Joined: 10 May 2016
Posts: 50
Location: northern california
Drinking: Bohemian Pilsner,Caribou Slobber, Munich Helles, Weissbier, Black Bute Porter, RIS, Irish Red Ale
Working on: Milk Chocolate Stout
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| Link Posted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 4:49 pm Post subject: |
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Looks like the switch is not square on the back side. Did you try to turn it 90 degrees to see if that gives you more clearance?
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I can't change the laws of physics but with enough horse power I can chase it into submission.
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ctshoyt
Joined: 16 Mar 2017
Posts: 20
Location: Manitoba, Canada
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| Link Posted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 5:00 pm Post subject: |
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| 701pilot wrote: | | Looks like the switch is not square on the back side. Did you try to turn it 90 degrees to see if that gives you more clearance? |
I thought about that, as long as the selector switch on the front panel stays in the proper orientation that should work. I remember playing around with it but don't think it can be rotated 90 degrees. I will have to give it another try and see for sure.
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ctshoyt
Joined: 16 Mar 2017
Posts: 20
Location: Manitoba, Canada
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| Link Posted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 9:09 pm Post subject: |
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| 701pilot wrote: | | Looks like the switch is not square on the back side. Did you try to turn it 90 degrees to see if that gives you more clearance? |
Tried your suggestion and the switch can not be rotated 90 degrees. The more I think about it, I wont be happy with how it looks until I move the switches back down to their original spot. I think i have some copper shim that is the same thickness of the original case. I will JB weld it over the current hole, then re make the hole in the proper spot with a conduit punch and finally fill in the areas that need with JB weld again, sand smooth and paint. At least it works in my mind, haha.
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GlennMcD
Joined: 07 Oct 2013
Posts: 51
Location: Louisiana
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| Link Posted: Fri Jan 05, 2018 10:39 pm Post subject: |
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I would believe adding a custom tag with bolts and using one with ground would be easier. But then again if I remember right I saw one I believe was Pipe Dream Brewery in Kal's testimonials that looked to have had a miss cut in the PID area and was fixed with a add on panel. I find that getting panel completed and moving on to next phase of your build is more important. I have worked on my build for almost 4 years. I need a couple of fittings for my keg fermenter and a hop screen for my keg boil kettle and I'm done. I just can't seem to find the time to order these parts. I even took advantage of some holiday sales and purchased my first grain bill and hops to brew Kal's Electric Hop Candy Jr. as my first all electric brew. Can't wait.
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ctshoyt
Joined: 16 Mar 2017
Posts: 20
Location: Manitoba, Canada
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| Link Posted: Sat Jan 06, 2018 12:08 am Post subject: |
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| GlennMcD wrote: | | I would believe adding a custom tag with bolts and using one with ground would be easier. But then again if I remember right I saw one I believe was Pipe Dream Brewery in Kal's testimonials that looked to have had a miss cut in the PID area and was fixed with a add on panel. I find that getting panel completed and moving on to next phase of your build is more important. I have worked on my build for almost 4 years. I need a couple of fittings for my keg fermenter and a hop screen for my keg boil kettle and I'm done. I just can't seem to find the time to order these parts. I even took advantage of some holiday sales and purchased my first grain bill and hops to brew Kal's Electric Hop Candy Jr. as my first all electric brew. Can't wait. |
I hear ya, I bought the pots over a year ago and they are just sitting in my basement while i use a cooler for a mash tun, and propane to heat my water/wort. This project is very daunting but I believe will be very rewarding when complete.
If I didn't have to wait a month or so for some parts I think I would just continue on but I have at least 3 weeks before I can move on to the wiring phase. So in that time I might as well try to fix the panel...or totally ruin it (hope not) to get it to how i want. Still going to use your logo and bolt ground idea!
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ctshoyt
Joined: 16 Mar 2017
Posts: 20
Location: Manitoba, Canada
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| Link Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2018 3:21 pm Post subject: |
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If anyone is interested, here is the fixed almost finished front panel. Still waiting for one switch, and a few other parts before i start with the bottom portion of the panel.
I ended up using the 1/2 hole plug with the tabs cut off, then inverted and JB welded on. (I want to use Jb on everything now)
Not perfect but does the job!
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