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MaGAVR Basement Brewery Build
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MaGAVR




Joined: 24 Oct 2017
Posts: 11
Location: Detroit, MI


PostLink    Posted: Fri Oct 27, 2017 6:14 am    Post subject: MaGAVR Basement Brewery Build Reply with quote


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(update on 1/29/2018)

Near Complete!

So I've been MIA as I decided to give the equipment a test run while construction was still being completed and brewed a back to back double batch.

I just want to say thanks to kal and all of his information on his build and his dedicated guides. I consulted this website at least 10x a day for the past 3 months.

Mug

But, without further ado, here are the final pictures! I'm very happy with how to turned out.

(I still have to purchase the first row seating for the home theater - either a sofa or theater recliners - and put up some interior design/pictures on the walls - and a raspberrypints computer for displaying whats on tap Cross ).

As you can see, I'm crash chilling one of the conicals right now.








Force carbonating with a carbonation stone:







Cast iron T-tap from Untapped:



150inch, 9.4.1 surround








Lots of gamma lid Vittles containers!


Last edited by MaGAVR on Tue Jan 30, 2018 3:05 am; edited 2 times in total
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MaGAVR




Joined: 24 Oct 2017
Posts: 11
Location: Detroit, MI


PostLink    Posted: Fri Oct 27, 2017 6:15 am    Post subject: Construction Complete! Reply with quote

Original Post

Hello homebrewers - a new day on theelectricbrewery.com, a new electric basement brewery build.

First off, I may be a new member to the forum, but I've been reading this website for years and salivating over the thought of an electricbrewery in my basement. I just moved so now its time to make it a reality.

I'm in the process of getting this ordered for my basement brewery and wanted some of you all's professional opinions on my design.

I have posted my layout below. My bathroom and utility room are already built. The rest of the basement is an open floor plan.




The eventual plan is to do a 2-row HT seating with a couch in front of the current 4 seats HT row. But for now one row will have to do.





My brew table is 96 inch long x 30 inch deep. Should my hood be 30 inch deep too? and how tall should the hood be? I'm about to place the order from fastkitchenhood.

Thanks!
MaGAVR[/b]


Last edited by MaGAVR on Tue Jan 30, 2018 2:23 am; edited 2 times in total
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Fri Oct 27, 2017 12:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow! Nice! Can't wait to see this one get underway...

You've got lots of room there for the HT. How wide a screen were you envisioning? What ratio? I'm assuming you're going with in-room speakers?
Depending on the width, 25' to the back of the second row may seem a bit much, but if it's a standard 16x9 screen and that 150" screen size is diagonal you're at 131" wide (pretty big) so I think it would work great. My room's 22' deep but my screen's only 8 feet (96") wide so the back of my second row isn't anywhere near the 22' depth. 131" wide is a pretty big screen! What projector were you envisioning? What screen and gain? (Just want to make sure you hit the foot lambert light output numbers you expect - normally for projectors you'd want to target about 48 cd/m2 (14 ft-L) but you have to keep in mind that bulbs age and put out less light over their lifespan so it's best to target that for end of life). More info in my calibration guide over at my HT forum: http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=35322

MaGAVR wrote:
My brew table is 96 inch long x 30 inch deep. Should my hood be 30 inch deep too? and how tall should the hood be? I'm about to place the order from fastkitchenhood.

The hood really only needs to cover the boil kettle, but for aesthetic reasons (I find it looks better) I have mind cover the entire 3 kettles so basically the whole table. I ended up with a 67" wide x 24" deep x 12" high hood to cover my 64x26" wood brew stand in my original brewery. My new stainless table is 64x24".

More info on ventilation and hoods: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/ventilation
More info on my brew stand: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/brew-stand

Cheers and welcome to the forum!

Kal

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MaGAVR




Joined: 24 Oct 2017
Posts: 11
Location: Detroit, MI


PostLink    Posted: Sat Oct 28, 2017 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you kal for all the great information.

So I decided for aesthetics to purchase a hood thats the same size as the table: 30" by 96".

The question is in regards to the outflow - I was going to have it on the left side of the hood but if my boil kettle is on the right side of the table - should I move the outflow to the right side?

Also I see that you had an inflow on your hood? Is this necessary?

kal wrote:
How wide a screen were you envisioning? What ratio? I'm assuming you're going with in-room speakers?


So its a 150 inch 16:9 screen - https://www.amazon.com/STR-169150-Silver-Ticket-Cinema-Projector/dp/B00I4WRVVC/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1509217170&sr=8-2&keywords=150+inch+screen&linkCode=ll1&tag=theelectricbrewery-20&linkId=243165fa52a5e8fdbf3acf2b1189f330

Edit: Link changed to support our forum at no additional cost to you - Thank you!



My speakers are floor standing polks for front and rear, 1 STS subwoofer, and 4 in ceiling mono price for 7.1.4

kal wrote:
What projector were you envisioning? What screen and gain?


Im thinking of the Epson Home Cinema 2150

It says 2500 lumens so I'm hoping thats bright enough

I'm wondering if I have enough "room" to brew with the chest freezers sitting behind the bar - I Think ill have about 3 feet. Do you all find that adequate?

I'm picking out the flooring / wall tiles tomorrow. Any suggestions - was thinking of the " fake wood" tile look along the walls and fake wood vinyl flooring. Anyone of pictures of this type of setup?
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Sat Oct 28, 2017 8:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MaGAVR wrote:
The question is in regards to the outflow - I was going to have it on the left side of the hood but if my boil kettle is on the right side of the table - should I move the outflow to the right side?

I'd recommend the vent output collar be as close over the boil kettle as possible. Will it matter? Probably not if you have good airflow.

[quote]Also I see that you had an inflow on your hood? Is this necessary?[quote]
I'm not sure what you mean by this. I do have a make-up air vent in the room that is connected to the outside. That is required in most new homes when installing a fan this size as the air needs to come from somewhere. Otherwise you're sucking out through fireplaces or other possibly dangerous places. Older homes probably have enough holes that it's not required, but I'd still want one to avoid sucking air from the rest of the house. I close my brewery door when brewing so that I'm not evacuating the heated or cooled air from the rest of the house. Give my ventilation article a read through: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/ventilation

Quote:
Im thinking of the Epson Home Cinema 2150

It says 2500 lumens so I'm hoping thats bright enough

Check out: http://www.webprojectorcalculator.com/

Quote:
I'm wondering if I have enough "room" to brew with the chest freezers sitting behind the bar - I Think ill have about 3 feet. Do you all find that adequate?

Should be fine.

Quote:
I'm picking out the flooring / wall tiles tomorrow. Any suggestions - was thinking of the " fake wood" tile look along the walls and fake wood vinyl flooring.

That's very much a personal preference / depends on your taste. Good luck!

Kal

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MaGAVR




Joined: 24 Oct 2017
Posts: 11
Location: Detroit, MI


PostLink    Posted: Sun Oct 29, 2017 2:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
I close my brewery door when brewing so that I'm not evacuating the heated or cooled air from the rest of the house. Give my ventilation article a read through: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/ventilation


Thank you for the ventilation post.

After reading it, I still have a question regarding the "make-up" air. So do I need two holes in my hood? One of one side for make-up air and one on the other side for outgoing heat ventilation? Where would the make-up air vent attach?

In your pictures I see only one hole in the hood - for the outgoing vent.

Unfortunately, I dont have the ability to close off the brewery from the rest of the house. I'm in Michigan so its going to be cold in the winter, and so I wasnt sure if having two vents will cause an issue with wasting energy/heat in the home.

So far, the people at fast kitchen hoods recommended me a 12 inch hole in the hood for the 12 inch in-line fan they are selling me for the heat vent.
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Sun Oct 29, 2017 3:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The make-up air is not connected to the hood. It’s simply a vent to the outside that is able to bring replacement air into the room to ‘make up’ for the air that the fan is pushing out. Opening a window in the brewery a bit would also do the same.

Kal

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MaGAVR




Joined: 24 Oct 2017
Posts: 11
Location: Detroit, MI


PostLink    Posted: Thu Nov 09, 2017 6:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So my contractor got delayed on another site and therefore couldn't start till this week.

Nothing too exciting yet but I figured I'd post some pictures:

Before:




Current:




Starting on all the electrical now...and putting glycol lines in the wall...
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Thu Nov 09, 2017 11:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool! Your basement's a lot more finished than the one I started with! Wink

Kal

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MaGAVR




Joined: 24 Oct 2017
Posts: 11
Location: Detroit, MI


PostLink    Posted: Sat Nov 18, 2017 1:11 am    Post subject: week 2 Reply with quote

So just completed week 2 - a total of 9 working days on the project. Here are some updates.

We ran two conical glycol lines in the back wall and a 8 x 2 trunk line for the tap in the bar:





I received the hood - it was huge! 30" deep x 96" long x 18" high doesnt sound that big until it arrives crated in your driveway.



We got it mounted.



We cut the holes for the 4 ceiling speakers, and also wired 2 wall speakers and fronts/center/rears for the 11.2 setup and mounted /wired hdmi and electrical for the projector. All the wiring runs to the closet.



We drywalled up the closet and also the back wall.




Since my temperature controllers for the conical fermenters are in the brewery but the glycol chiller is in the back utility closet, I'm building an extension cord to the pumps. The third pump to the taps will be running 24/7.





Finally we started the flooring - waterproof vinyl for those messy brew days.



Oh and the glycol chiller arrived.



Not bad for 5 days of work!

Next up is tiling and mudding. Things may be slow due to the holiday week ahead.
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Sat Nov 18, 2017 2:07 am    Post subject: Re: week 2 Reply with quote

MaGAVR wrote:
Not bad for 5 days of work!

Wow - I'd say!

This is like deja vu from my basement build. Almost makes me want to do it all over again. Almost. Wink

Keep the pics coming!

Kal

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KB




Joined: 06 Nov 2014
Posts: 334
Location: Virginia

Working on: Next brew


PostLink    Posted: Sat Nov 18, 2017 11:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MaGAVR,
Nice!

Good you know how to do these types of things. No one will do as good of a job as you. Why? Because it's yours.

I recommend baffles in the hood. Better to have and not need than need and not have. I'm dealing with the high humidity we have in VA and wish I had baffles installed in my hood.

Kraig
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MaGAVR




Joined: 24 Oct 2017
Posts: 11
Location: Detroit, MI


PostLink    Posted: Tue Dec 05, 2017 3:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

KB wrote:
MaGAVR,
I recommend baffles in the hood.
Kraig


So my understanding is baffles are only needed for grease hoods (but I'm no expert). Why would I need them for condensation?

kal wrote:

Keep the pics coming!


Here's an update - it was a slow week last week due to the Thanksgiving holiday - hence the lack of an update.

We began the tile work..



Grouted the tile


Started plumbing on the sink (I realized I had ordered the shorter of the two faucets so I exchanged this one after taking the picture):



Mudded the storage closet - you can see all the speaker connections in the wall



Installed some lighting and cabinets for the beer glasses







Extension cords for the glycol pumps for the conicals



Built and painted the closet shelves for the home theater electronics:



Mounted the bar top



Started on the brewery cabinets




Oh and started building the collar second keezer (this one used to be my fermentation chamber - now I'll have 4 kegs in each) and passivated my Perlick 650SS





Next up is finishing the counters/mounting the sink/finishing the ventilation to the outside...[/quote]
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Tue Dec 05, 2017 5:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Coming along! Do you have any info on the lights you used in the vent hood?

Kal

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We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
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MaGAVR




Joined: 24 Oct 2017
Posts: 11
Location: Detroit, MI


PostLink    Posted: Tue Dec 05, 2017 1:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
Do you have any info on the lights you used in the vent hood?

Kal


I just asked fastkitchenhoods to add 3 equally spaced lights. They call them "incandescent fixtures" - the LED ones were double the price. But the nice part is for the incandescent fixture, I can screw any type of bulb into them (ie LED).

Heres a product info link they sent me:

http://www.kasonind.com/files/5214/7671/7573/catalog_-_1801_canopy_light_and_wire_guard.pdf



I wanted the antique look so I did LED strip filament bulbs - the same ones over the bar.



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073RY94WR/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=theelectricbrewery-20&linkId=a06759e64f4ae1f71bb2cc76ddf2494b
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Tue Dec 05, 2017 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the product link!

Make sure to keep using the glass globe on the outside of whatever bulb you use... last thing you want to do is break a bulb and have shards of glass in your beer. Wink

Kal

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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Tue Dec 05, 2017 3:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote



Thinking about this some more, the only thing I'd watch out for with lights light this is you may get some condensation dripping back into the boil kettle during a hard boil. Until you get everything hooked up and running and see how the air flows, it's hard to say. Now that said, some dripping isn't really an issue.

Love the look so far!

Kal

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MaGAVR




Joined: 24 Oct 2017
Posts: 11
Location: Detroit, MI


PostLink    Posted: Fri Dec 08, 2017 5:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
the only thing I'd watch out for with lights light this is you may get some condensation dripping back into the boil kettle during a hard boil.

Kal


Thanks for the heads up - I didnt think about that. We'll see what happens on the first boil. But I guess if it boils, condensates, and redrips in the kettle, and then boils off again, will it be an issue?


But in the meantime, I have a quick question -

I got my tap mounted and we're about to close up the bar with drywall.






So the glycol lines are significantly shorter than the stainless steel lines of the beer lines. So will this affect condensation and moisture buildup? Will this affect the temperature of the poured beer with that big of gap between the glycol lines?

Did you just attach the glycol lines, shorten the beer lines, and wrap it all in insulation? What about condensation?
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Fri Dec 08, 2017 1:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MaGAVR wrote:
Thanks for the heads up - I didnt think about that. We'll see what happens on the first boil. But I guess if it boils, condensates, and redrips in the kettle, and then boils off again, will it be an issue?

Nope. Some people don't like the idea of that happening though.

Quote:
So the glycol lines are significantly shorter than the stainless steel lines of the beer lines. So will this affect condensation and moisture buildup? Will this affect the temperature of the poured beer with that big of gap between the glycol lines?

You mean because there will be a foot or two length of stainless beer line that isn't in direct contact with the copper coolant lines?
No, shouldn't matter once you have it all wrapped up and insulated. Remember that the two metals conduct heat well so the cooling effect will run up and down the lines. Mine were a bit shorter, but not as much as yours:



(The glycol coolant lines are the larger solid red and blue lines)

Quote:
Did you just attach the glycol lines, shorten the beer lines, and wrap it all in insulation?

Yup.

Quote:
What about condensation?

Wrapped well there won't be any. Look at how the line's normally wrapped as sold and do the same thing. I re-used the really thick insulation that I had cut off from a ~2 foot section, and then a bunch I had cut off from inside the keezer.

Looking at your pics the only thing I'd be concerned with is that your big black python of product lines seems to be too high. You want to allow room for a nice big slow turning radius, and don't really want to bend the stainless lines much (you don't want to break them).

More info:

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=290842#290842
http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=295672#295672

Good luck!

Kal

_________________
Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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MaGAVR




Joined: 24 Oct 2017
Posts: 11
Location: Detroit, MI


PostLink    Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2018 3:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So the brewery is pretty much complete - I updated my first post with pictures. But I figured I'd still post some pictures of the progress:

Installed some undercabinet lightning for the bar:




I finally got the clamps put on the lines and tested them. This wasnt easy. I was told the barb can fit a 1/4 inch tube but I had a hard time even with the heat gun.



I tested them all for leaks and none were found. Then wrapped it up in plastic then foil then foam.



We mounted the drip tray / plumbing, and the bar cabinets. Then drywalled up the bar.





Mounted the textured PVC 3d wall panel using gorilla glue:



Painted the wall panels and then mounted the foot rail:




Mounted the closet glass barn door. We had to take the cabinet back off to do this. Eh, two step forward, one step back.






Added the perlick faucets and also mounted 4 in-ceiling speakers:




Started work on the platform with one stair:






In the meantime I was too eager to bring down my shiny stainless. In retrospect this was a mistake as there was still more dust from the construction.





Then we added the rest of the flooring and then carpeted the raised platform:






Came out really well with the lip on the stairs and the platform.
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