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Comments about D-rest methods and force Carbonation

 
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tkdjim




Joined: 22 Nov 2016
Posts: 55
Location: Derby, Kansas

Drinking: Scotch Ale

Working on: Moose Druel


PostLink    Posted: Fri Sep 15, 2017 4:08 pm    Post subject: Comments about D-rest methods and force Carbonation Reply with quote


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Hi Kal,

I have a couple of questions on D-rest methods and forced carbing and storing the keg afterwards these procedure is new to me so I am a little unsure if I am doing it correctly.

I fermented my wheat brew in the Danby at 66 deg the final gravity got down to 1.010 after 14 days.

I left it in the fermenter at the 66 Deg. for a couple of days for the D-rest... should I have pulled it out to room temp which right now is running in the upper 80's?

This room doesn't have climate control activated because it is a building we store antiques ect.. for our business or should I have brought it home for the rest?

Also, I have moved the brew into a 5 gallon corner and dropped the temp in the Danby down to 38 and put 6# of CO2 on it. My idea is to leave it for 6-7 days, if that is enough to get about 2 volumes of carbonation?

Once that period is complete can the keg be stored at room temps or does it have to be kept cool?

I don't have a kegerator yet and my beer fridge is setup to hold a short 2.5 gallon keg at the moment. I was planning on transferring brew from the 5 gallon conditioning keg to the small 2.5 keg until I get setup to handle full corneys.

What method is everyone doing to move the beer into smaller kegs and Growlers?


Thanks,
tkdjim
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Fri Sep 15, 2017 4:36 pm    Post subject: Re: Comments about D-rest methods and force Carbonation Reply with quote

Hi!

tkdjim wrote:


I have a couple of questions on D-rest methods and forced carbing and storing the keg afterwards these procedure is new to me so I am a little unsure if I am doing it correctly.

I fermented my wheat brew in the Danby at 66 deg the final gravity got down to 1.010 after 14 days.

I left it in the fermenter at the 66 Deg. for a couple of days for the D-rest... should I have pulled it out to room temp which right now is running in the upper 80's?

It's probably not needed if you fermented at 66F. D-rests are required more for lager yeasts or other yeasts that ferment cold. Normally I'll raise the temp 10 degrees F to do this d-rest, or simply bring it to room temp (72-74F). Maybe google your yeast type and see if a d-rest is usually needed or done.

Quote:
This room doesn't have climate control activated because it is a building we store antiques ect.. for our business or should I have brought it home for the rest?

Not sure how the yeast or beer will like being in the high 80's, probably best to not heat it up so much. If it's been done fermenting for a more than a few days you're probably fine. You can taste it too to see if you have any noticeably diacetyl (buttery flavour).

Quote:
Also, I have moved the brew into a 5 gallon corner and dropped the temp in the Danby down to 38 and put 6# of CO2 on it. My idea is to leave it for 6-7 days, if that is enough to get about 2 volumes of carbonation?



According to the chart above, 38F and 6# will get you 2 volumes of CO2. 6-7 days is probably a bit too fast however. It'll probably take more like 2-3 weeks if left to carb up naturally. You can give it a good shake every few hours if you want it done in a day or two. Another option if you're in a big hurry is to set the regulator to 35-40 psi temporarily. Test it every 6-8 hours. Should only take 24-48 hours. Most beers will get better however if left to condition for a week or two, even wheat beers that most say are ok to drink young.

Quote:
Once that period is complete can the keg be stored at room temps or does it have to be kept cool?

All beer will store/age better if kept cold.

Quote:
I don't have a kegerator yet and my beer fridge is setup to hold a short 2.5 gallon keg at the moment. I was planning on transferring brew from the 5 gallon conditioning keg to the small 2.5 keg until I get setup to handle full corneys.

What method is everyone doing to move the beer into smaller kegs and Growlers?

I'd recommend purging the target vessel with CO2 first, then use CO2 to push from one keg to the other.

For growlers I chill them first then purge with CO2 (I have a loose hose off my gas manifold with a shutoff valve for this) then fill right from the tap, cap on foam.

Good luck!

Kal

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tkdjim




Joined: 22 Nov 2016
Posts: 55
Location: Derby, Kansas

Drinking: Scotch Ale

Working on: Moose Druel


PostLink    Posted: Fri Sep 15, 2017 6:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Super, sounds like I am not far off track then. Thanks for the chart that will come in very handy!

On transferring the beer to smaller keg do you daisy chain out to in and and leave the lids on?
Of course I figure you would hook the gas to the conditioning keg and use what 4 to 6 pounds to move it?

Also, do you use a scale and go by weight of the receiving keg? My small keg is 2 1/2 gallons and fits on the bottom of my beer fridge with the lower shelf removed. Can't wait to get a kegerator or build a keezer !!

thanks for the helpful info!
tkdjim
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Fri Sep 15, 2017 6:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tkdjim wrote:
On transferring the beer to smaller keg do you daisy chain out to in and and leave the lids on?

Yup - that's the best way if you wan to avoid any kind of oxygen contact.

Quote:
Of course I figure you would hook the gas to the conditioning keg and use what 4 to 6 pounds to move it?

Something low pressure, just enough for flow. Not sure what that would be (as I've never done keg to keg transfers).

Quote:
Also, do you use a scale and go by weight of the receiving keg?

That's one way. Again, I've never done it so maybe others can chime in. Leaving the lid off the receiving keg after you've purged it works well too given that CO2 is heavier than air. As long as you don't have a big breeze blowing or something, the oxygen contact will be very limited. Just to make sure, after you fill put the lid on and burp it a few times with CO2 going in the gas in -
just to make sure you don't have any atmosphere left in in the headspace.

Good luck!

Kal

_________________
Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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tkdjim




Joined: 22 Nov 2016
Posts: 55
Location: Derby, Kansas

Drinking: Scotch Ale

Working on: Moose Druel


PostLink    Posted: Fri Sep 15, 2017 7:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fantastic! thanks so much for the help!!!
tkdjim
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