Starting the process

ModlrMike · Joined: 05 Jul 2017 Posts: 6

After many years of straight extract, and extract with grains, I've decided to step up to PM and AG. To that end, I would like to build an electric brewery. I have a few constraints... chiefly, I only have access to 120v in my current house (I have 240v, but the outlets are not accessible). I've done lots of reading here and on HBT, and I think that I'm ready to start building a 120v controller. I have a list of components picked out on Amazon. I still have to source or build the project box, and I need to find an appropriate master power switch, and I'll probably need some terminal blocks to keep it all neat and tidy. There's no GFCI in the plan, but it will be plugged into a protected outlet. My end goal is to be able to mash with the controller, and then stove top boil once the mash is done.

Now to the questions:

1. Will the parts I've chosen do the job? If not, what will?

2. I intend to run a pump that has a 60mA draw. Knowing that, would a 1400w element be reasonable? I'm on a 120v/15A circuit, although I do have access to another outlet.

3. I'm going to base my system off the 8gal Bayou Classic pot. I would therefore need to cut a hole for the element. If you had to choose, would you go screw in or TC? At the end of the day, I want to be able to store everything in the kettle.

That's it for a start. I'm sure there will be other questions such as wiring etc as I go along.

Thanks for your patience. Mug

**kal** · Posted: Tue Jul 18, 2017 1:28 pm Post subject:

Welcome to the forum!

Your list of parts is a certainly a starting point. Whether they work for your intended setup depends on how to plan on using the setup / what features you want. I haven't used most of the exact parts myself, but did note you have two temp probes (one comes with the PID and you have one separate). Not sure why you'd want two?

What pump are you using? Assuming it's a 120V AC pump, if it only draws 60ma of current that means it's only a 7 watt pump which seems very low.

What batch size are you looking at making? If making 5 gallon batches you're probably starting with 6-7 gallons pre-boil and a 1400W element just isn't going to be powerful enough to give you a nice boil I'm afraid. I'd recommend at least 3500W.

For the element fitting I've been using weldless for almost 10 years now as have thousands of other brewers. Never had any issues. It's really up to you on how to want to attach the element.

Cheers!

Kal

ModlrMike · Joined: 05 Jul 2017 Posts: 6

Thanks for the reply, Kal.

I have two probes because it was less costly to buy the PID with the probe than separately, and I didn't think the supplied probe was long enough.

I was thinking of getting the pump from Brau Supply, the one they list as BR12-1. On the other hand, there's a lot of 12v pumps that I see folks using so it might be good to go in that direction. That little beige one from China appears popular.

I've been thinking of scaling back to 3 gallon batches. I'm going to reach the point in the not too distant future when lifting 5 gallon of beer is too much. That being said, the 1400w element combined with my 1500w induction burner should still boil up to 7 gallons of wort. At least according to this calculator (Water Heating Time Calculator) You can heat 7 gallons of water from 170 to 212 in 15 minutes with 2900 watts at 100% efficiency; so not too bad. With both the water heater element and the induction burner you're probably as close to 100% energy transfer as one can get, but even 80% is only 19 minutes.

I've read elsewhere, that if you run a 240w element at 120v, you reduce the wattage by a factor of four. If that's true, then could I future proof my design by going with a 5500w element - giving me 1375w at 120v? If so, I could then rebuild the controller for 240v later when I have access.

I'm going to map out my layout in the near future, so I'm sure I'll have more questions.

Michael

**kal** · Posted: Tue Jul 18, 2017 4:25 pm Post subject:

You are correct that a 240v element running at 120v would put out 1/4 the power.

I recommend: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/heating-element-kits

Bare element: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/stainless-steel-heating-elements

Good luck!

Kal

ModlrMike · Joined: 05 Jul 2017 Posts: 6

OK, I think I have this sorted out. Here's my layout. Any suggestions? I suppose I could use a fuse in there, but I'm looking at a fused master power. I suppose also that I could put the LED before the SSR if I didn't want it to blink when the SSR fires. The whole thing will be connected to a GFCI outlet, so I should be protected there.