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dirtyderek
Joined: 04 Jan 2016 Posts: 14 Location: Arlington,TX
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Link Posted: Mon Jun 05, 2017 3:41 am Post subject: troubleshooting idea |
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Ok. attaching pics from instructions. When I got to the end of the instructions with the safe start relay, I undid the initial wiring from the power input page. Are you supposed to follow BOTH and have multiple wires in some spots? Does this question even make sense?! lol
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11121 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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dirtyderek
Joined: 04 Jan 2016 Posts: 14 Location: Arlington,TX
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Link Posted: Mon Jun 05, 2017 4:52 am Post subject: Re: troubleshooting idea |
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Quote: |
Do everything in the 'regular' instructions. Then if you want to add the safe start feature, follow the instructions exactly as outlined in the safe start section. It's one after the other.
Kal |
Check. From what I see the only thing needed there was adding back the hot from the coil to the power key switch.
Going to keep tracing through the steps to double-check everything. Will give her a go in the morning when I get back to the 50 amp outlet at the brewery. *crossing fingers.
Only other thought right now is whether or not I should have used the 2 NC slots on the Power switch instead of going to the HLT and Time Remaining NC switches.[/quote]
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dirtyderek
Joined: 04 Jan 2016 Posts: 14 Location: Arlington,TX
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Link Posted: Mon Jun 05, 2017 1:30 pm Post subject: |
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Ok! Main power on! Now to get it to go out past the switch and light!
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dirtyderek
Joined: 04 Jan 2016 Posts: 14 Location: Arlington,TX
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Link Posted: Mon Jun 05, 2017 1:47 pm Post subject: |
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Main 40amp contact and both BK and HLT 40amp contacts are getting power on the input side, but no power output side and seems very low voltage at transformers and SSRs at heat sink. Heat sink seems to have a nice hum going....
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11121 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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dirtyderek
Joined: 04 Jan 2016 Posts: 14 Location: Arlington,TX
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Link Posted: Mon Jun 05, 2017 7:38 pm Post subject: thanks |
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awesome thank you!
what I meant was the power switch has a NO side and a NC side.
I purchased the book. Gonna make a deep run through the entire process. I must have SOMETHING crossed up or missed somewhere.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11121 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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dirtyderek
Joined: 04 Jan 2016 Posts: 14 Location: Arlington,TX
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Link Posted: Mon Jun 05, 2017 7:48 pm Post subject: |
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Right! Red NC side and green NO side. That's what I got in the kit we purchased from you (SpikeInnovations).
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11121 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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dirtyderek
Joined: 04 Jan 2016 Posts: 14 Location: Arlington,TX
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Link Posted: Tue Jun 06, 2017 6:59 pm Post subject: |
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so i figured out that I didn't wire the terminal strips correctly. I went through and re wired all wires to parts on one side of each and then made jumpers on the other side. However, that can't be right. right? Shouldn't I have jumpers for low voltage parts separate from jumpers to parts taking the higher voltage?
Also, amp and volt meters not working. I triple-checked the pin placement and read several others' posts and answers to them to ensure they are correct.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11121 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Tue Jun 06, 2017 7:06 pm Post subject: |
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dirtyderek wrote: | so i figured out that I didn't wire the terminal strips correctly. I went through and re wired all wires to parts on one side of each and then made jumpers on the other side. However, that can't be right. right? |
That is correct. All parts that wire back to the HOT bus need to be tied together. They should all be connected.
Same with everything that goes to the NEUTRAL bus. All parts with wires that go back to the NEUTRAL bus need to be tied together.
Quote: | Shouldn't I have jumpers for low voltage parts separate from jumpers to parts taking the higher voltage? |
All points on the HOT bus are at 120V. There's no such thing as high or low voltage parts connected to the HOT bus. By the fact that they're tied together they're receiving 120V. They're all at the same potential relative to GROUND. Same with the NEUTRAL bus (all at the equivalent of 0V relative to GROUND).
Quote: | Also, amp and volt meters not working. I triple-checked the pin placement and read several others' posts and answers to them to ensure they are correct. |
Check out the troubleshooting guide. Make sure the DC power is set correctly per the instructions. Also recheck your wiring. Something, somewhere had to be overlooked because they're not working. Careful with the meters though - the close proximity of high AC current/voltage with very low DC current/voltage means that any mis-wiring usually fries the meters.
Kal
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Last edited by kal on Tue Jun 06, 2017 7:23 pm; edited 1 time in total
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dirtyderek
Joined: 04 Jan 2016 Posts: 14 Location: Arlington,TX
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Link Posted: Tue Jun 06, 2017 7:10 pm Post subject: |
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thanks Kal! I will take another sweep through!
I also reached out to Mouser. They are down the street from where we are opening our doors. Maybe the appeal of some free beers will entice them to give a hand. lol!
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11121 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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