New house! New brewery!

Anticlimaddox · Joined: 05 Feb 2016 Posts: 85 Location: Harrisonburg, VA

I'm replacing the G2 Kettle valves with 3pc balls valves per...
http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27425

Should this connection have PTE tape? What is the logic behind when and when NOT to use it. I know compression fittings don't, neither is it recommended on the Blichmann brewmometer.

I'm fine following directions case by case, but wondering the logic.

thx // b

Tungsten · Joined: 06 Dec 2014 Posts: 318 Location: Buffalo, NY

Any tapered (NPT) threads need to have tape applied. I have seen people say that about compression fittings, but... unless my understanding is wildly accurate, compression fittings need tape on the NPT side, but not on the compression side. If you were to put tape on the compression side, it could actually prevent a seal from happening as the tape might prevent the compression from... compressing enough.

Blichmann's brewmometer is a straight thread - not tapered - which is why it requires no tape.

So yes, your ball valves will probably need tape because the nipple is NPT. It may be possible to connect certain fittings without needing tape, but in my experience there is no way to tell which ones are which unless you simply use tape on all tapered threads.

Anticlimaddox · Joined: 05 Feb 2016 Posts: 85 Location: Harrisonburg, VA

Thanks Tungsten.

The blichmann fitting for the ball valve is not tapered either which is probably why Kal's page doesn't show tape. Your tapered comment helps make some sense of when and why. And yeah, I put tape on the threaded side of the compression fitting.

Cheers.

Anticlimaddox · Joined: 05 Feb 2016 Posts: 85 Location: Harrisonburg, VA

So I'm leak-free on all the fittings on all 3 pots with the exception of where I have replaced the G2 valves. It isn't anything major, like a drop or two over 10 min but not water-tight. Do I just need to crank down on it harder? It's the same deal on the 2 pots I've swapped valves on - have yet to do the third. Any thoughts? I am using the correct size silicone and stainless washer pairing per Kal's directions.

Ozarks Mountain Brew · Posted: Wed May 17, 2017 10:48 pm Post subject:

I put tape on everything threaded tapered or not it keeps you from tightening too much for one and just a safeguard for not leaking when hot, you know joints loosen when hot

**kal** · Posted: Wed May 17, 2017 11:29 pm Post subject:

Anticlimaddox · Joined: 05 Feb 2016 Posts: 85 Location: Harrisonburg, VA

Well, I just did the 3rd pot and its water tight. Re-reading your directions, what I did on the first two was line it all up and then tighten by turning the Blichmann nut (insert joke here). Which I think pinched the silicone washer a bit. Taking the first two apart they didn't look like they squished evenly. So on this 3rd I held the nut in place with both washers set and turned the valve instead. Seemed like PTE would just interfere with how that washer is intended to work with the stainless washer? Anyway - replacing the other 2 now.

**kal** · Posted: Wed May 17, 2017 11:55 pm Post subject:

Anticlimaddox · Joined: 05 Feb 2016 Posts: 85 Location: Harrisonburg, VA

Well, each valve needed to be disassembled and refit about 4x but persistence prevails. They are now on, wet-tested and leak free with some PTE tape on each one.

On to the one I'm not looking forward to - the compression fittings on the coil. These gave me the most trouble on my last setup.

So the arms of the coil (the straight lengths) are too long and need trimmed down. Going to look at the hardware store for a sturdier cutter, my copper pipe cutter *works on SS tubing, but tends to 'walk'. My question for anyone who's installed these... the SS tubing only seats in the compression fitting about 3/4" - that seem right? (see photo below, I marked where it stops with a sharpie.) I know there are bored-through versions of these compression fittings that allow the tubing to go all the way them - guess that is what Im used to. Does this little bit seem correct?

Also, I'm assuming this is the order of installing these coils. Attach bulkhead to pot (as in pics), then attach coil to bulkheads with compression fitting? Not the other way around?

thx // brian

**kal** · Posted: Fri May 19, 2017 12:20 pm Post subject:

dp Brewing Company · Posted: Fri May 19, 2017 12:21 pm Post subject:

That all looks normal to me. And yes bulkhead to kettle then compression fitting to coil.

Anticlimaddox · Joined: 05 Feb 2016 Posts: 85 Location: Harrisonburg, VA

Thank you both for the quick responses kal and dp! Sorry to overthink this, just was a nightmare last time doing this. Cheers.

Anticlimaddox · Joined: 05 Feb 2016 Posts: 85 Location: Harrisonburg, VA

Happy to report that the brewery is 99% complete. Having a celebratory beer after full wet tests. I have one leak on my plate chiller where a compression fitting was holding a thermometer, ordered a NPT threaded one instead which will fix that. Water report should come this week. BrewPi, which apparently buggered up its SD card during our move, is now reinstalled and back up and running. Should be having Brew Day 1 in a couple weeks. Might try Kal's Ruthless Rye clone or a big burly Belgian Quad - 10% right out the gate.

**kal** · Posted: Tue Jun 06, 2017 1:24 am Post subject:

So close! Good luck on the first brew!

Kal