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Riptide pump from Blichmann, with Hop Stopper

 
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Dan Cook



Joined: 14 Jan 2015
Posts: 9
Location: Seattle


PostLink    Posted: Thu May 25, 2017 11:05 pm    Post subject: Riptide pump from Blichmann, with Hop Stopper Reply with quote


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The guidance on the Hop Stopper is that when the kettle is nearly drained out, the Hop Stopper can lose its siphon if too much air gets into the outlet tubing instead of wort. In theory the new Riptide pump from Blichmann has a method for purging air from the line, via air vent valve.

Is it possible that this pump will be a logical thing to pair with a Hop Stopper in order to prevent the lost siphon scenario?
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 7683
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Pale Ale (sessionable), Mild, NEIPA, Schwarzbier, Kölsch, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Belgian Saison


PostLink    Posted: Fri May 26, 2017 12:10 am    Post subject: Re: Riptide pump from Blichmann, with Hop Stopper Reply with quote

Dan Cook wrote:
The guidance on the Hop Stopper is that when the kettle is nearly drained out, the Hop Stopper can lose its siphon if too much air gets into the outlet tubing instead of wort.

That's not entirely true. The issue is that a pump can suck the wort out faster than the Hop Stopper can fill. Having a purge valve on a pump doesn't change that. It's not related.

People buying lower end (not center inlet) March and Chugger pumps have been putting purge valves on them for years now. Blichmann's simply integrated one so you don't have to add one yourself.

Keep in mind that a purge valve is NOT required at all if you use the pump center inlet pump I recommend. I've never had a purge valve or a need for one on my setup as described in the build instructions on this website.

So it's not related to the speed at which a pump can empty the inside of the Hop Stopper. The new Blichmann pump will not change how the Hop Stopper works. In fact, it may make it works if it pumps faster.

Kal

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Dan Cook



Joined: 14 Jan 2015
Posts: 9
Location: Seattle


PostLink    Posted: Sun May 28, 2017 7:43 pm    Post subject: Re: Riptide pump from Blichmann, with Hop Stopper Reply with quote

On a related note, other guidance for the Hop Stopper says:

Quote:
When the kettle burner is turned off, it is not necessary, nor recommended, to whirlpool. Stir the wort
only if you have added whole hops at the end of the boil to get them submerged. If you add pellet hops
at the end of the boil, no stirring is necessary. Do NOT recirculate the wort in the kettle! This will
compact the hops onto the screen and clog it. There is no reason to recirculate or whirlpool. If you are
using an immersion chiller, use manual wort agitation only, NO RECIRCULATION.


Kal, do you think if I'm using whole hops only that this would still clog the screen during a recirculation? I sometimes bring the temp down from boil to about 180F and then do a hop stand at a temp where the aromas aren't burned off, then come down to pitching temps. This involves using a counterflow chiller and a pump to recirculate during that initial cool-down, which is pretty much counter to the guidance above. In short, I'm not attempting to whirlpool, just to cool down faster than letting it come down naturally.

p.s. apologies for not posting this in the sub-forum on Hop Stopper.
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 7683
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Pale Ale (sessionable), Mild, NEIPA, Schwarzbier, Kölsch, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Belgian Saison


PostLink    Posted: Sun May 28, 2017 8:27 pm    Post subject: Re: Riptide pump from Blichmann, with Hop Stopper Reply with quote

Dan Cook wrote:
On a related note, other guidance for the Hop Stopper says:

Quote:
When the kettle burner is turned off, it is not necessary, nor recommended, to whirlpool. Stir the wort
only if you have added whole hops at the end of the boil to get them submerged. If you add pellet hops
at the end of the boil, no stirring is necessary. Do NOT recirculate the wort in the kettle! This will
compact the hops onto the screen and clog it. There is no reason to recirculate or whirlpool. If you are
using an immersion chiller, use manual wort agitation only, NO RECIRCULATION.


Kal, do you think if I'm using whole hops only that this would still clog the screen during a recirculation?

Good question. I'm not sure, but I would think so given that it's not just the hops but the hot break (and possibly cold break if you're chilling).

Quote:
I sometimes bring the temp down from boil to about 180F and then do a hop stand at a temp where the aromas aren't burned off, then come down to pitching temps.

Yup. As do I. My Electric Hop Candy NEIPA uses that *exactly* process. See pics/process here: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=30768

I use an IC to chill. I could *probably* use the CFC since I'd only need to recirc for ~1-2 mins (since with the low end IC it only takes 3 mins) but I didn't want to take the risk of clogging it.

If you do try it let us know how it works!

Kal

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