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dp Brewing Company
Joined: 08 Jul 2013
Posts: 664
Location: Midwest
Drinking: Chocolate Taco, Raspberry Mango Cider, American X, Sandy Dunes
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Ozarks Mountain Brew
Joined: 22 May 2013
Posts: 737
Location: The Ozark Mountains of Missouri
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 Link Posted: Thu May 11, 2017 8:41 pm Post subject: |
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makes since easy removal head, easy bleed valve, I like it
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dp Brewing Company
Joined: 08 Jul 2013
Posts: 664
Location: Midwest
Drinking: Chocolate Taco, Raspberry Mango Cider, American X, Sandy Dunes
Working on: Nothing
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| Link Posted: Thu May 11, 2017 8:43 pm Post subject: |
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I like the tri-clamp head removal and the linear flow valve. Might make it easier to match flow while sparging.
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Ozarks Mountain Brew
Joined: 22 May 2013
Posts: 737
Location: The Ozark Mountains of Missouri
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| Link Posted: Thu May 11, 2017 8:44 pm Post subject: |
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yeah doesn't need a ball valve for adjustment, thats awesome
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dp Brewing Company
Joined: 08 Jul 2013
Posts: 664
Location: Midwest
Drinking: Chocolate Taco, Raspberry Mango Cider, American X, Sandy Dunes
Working on: Nothing
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| Link Posted: Thu May 11, 2017 8:46 pm Post subject: |
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On their website they say there will be retro kit for March/Chugger pumps. I'll be interested in seeing that retro kit.
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Ozarks Mountain Brew
Joined: 22 May 2013
Posts: 737
Location: The Ozark Mountains of Missouri
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| Link Posted: Thu May 11, 2017 8:52 pm Post subject: |
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https://youtu.be/gc9FqQeTx-0
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kal
Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11120
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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| Link Posted: Thu May 11, 2017 8:59 pm Post subject: |
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The tri-clamp fitting is kind of neat.
The purge valve i don't really get. You couldn't use it with wort as you'd spill sticky wort all over the place. Better to have a center inlet pump that doesn't require priming at all (IMHO).
Not sold on the linear flow valves either. Much slower to open/close than ball valves. You can't turn them off fast if you have an "oops" moment.
It would also be very hard to gauge how open/closed they are from looking a them which is one of the main concerns I have when they put them on their kettles (read more here: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27425 ). A ball valve you can look at the angle and know right away. Matching two pumps would prove harder I think with linear flow valves as you don't know where you're starting. Easier to make fine adjustments, but it would take longer to get the two matched I think.
Kal
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My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
Last edited by kal on Thu May 11, 2017 9:08 pm; edited 1 time in total
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kal
Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11120
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Ozarks Mountain Brew
Joined: 22 May 2013
Posts: 737
Location: The Ozark Mountains of Missouri
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| Link Posted: Thu May 11, 2017 9:55 pm Post subject: |
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highland_brewer does an unboxing and test
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dp Brewing Company
Joined: 08 Jul 2013
Posts: 664
Location: Midwest
Drinking: Chocolate Taco, Raspberry Mango Cider, American X, Sandy Dunes
Working on: Nothing
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| Link Posted: Fri May 12, 2017 12:27 pm Post subject: |
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| kal wrote: | The tri-clamp fitting is kind of neat.
The purge valve i don't really get. You couldn't use it with wort as you'd spill sticky wort all over the place. Better to have a center inlet pump that doesn't require priming at all (IMHO).
Kal |
I think this is to get the burst of air that might be in there. But yes you are correct if you kept pulling the valve until the wort got there it would indeed be a mess. I see it more as releasing a bit of air pressure
| kal wrote: |
Not sold on the linear flow valves either. Much slower to open/close than ball valves. You can't turn them off fast if you have an "oops" moment.
Kal |
This is one of the things I'm most excited about. This way I could have more control over how far open (fast the flow) is. Meaning the slow motion as you stated would be a plus. If my wort was moving faster than the sparge water I could adjust one slightly to equal them out. Right now with ball valves it is really hard to fine tune the flow. Yes the open and close as you stated is easier with ball valves for full on/off flow. May have to still have a ball valve on the outlet for that reason, but for sparging I think the linear valve might be worth trying.
| kal wrote: |
It would also be very hard to gauge how open/closed they are from looking a them which is one of the main concerns I have when they put them on their kettles (read more here: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27425 ). A ball valve you can look at the angle and know right away. Matching two pumps would prove harder I think with linear flow valves as you don't know where you're starting. Easier to make fine adjustments, but it would take longer to get the two matched I think.
Kal |
Not sure that would matter. You only open to get a trickle going to the boil kettle. With regards to making the two match. I would think you would only turn the valve a full turn or two. Don't think that would be to hard to copy on a second pump.
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kal
Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11120
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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| Link Posted: Fri May 12, 2017 12:49 pm Post subject: |
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| dp Brewing Company wrote: | | I think this is to get the burst of air that might be in there. But yes you are correct if you kept pulling the valve until the wort got there it would indeed be a mess. I see it more as releasing a bit of air pressure |
It's definitely for purging air, but you'd have to be extremely careful (and have good timing) if there was anything other than cool water that you wanted to push. You could easily burn yourself (plus make a sticky mess) if you were wanting to purge air out ahead of boiling wort. I've been somewhat surprised at Blichmann lately in terms of safety. This just seems like an accident waiting to happen with your finger less than an inch for the air escape holes when you pull the valve. The safety around the linear flow valve was the other thing I wasn't too happy with: If you turn the valve too far to open it you can pull it right off! (There's a detent so it should be obvious that you should stop turning but still... brewers are known to have consumed a few while brewing...  ).
| dp Brewing Company wrote: | | for sparging I think the linear valve might be worth trying. |
I still think it would be more work even with sparging but it probably depends on the person. I find with the two pumps it's easy to set the flow rate from the MLT -> Boil the way I want it (I look at the wort coming out of the hose into the boil kettle and adjust the valve). Then I open the HLT -> MLT water pump ball valve to the same amount by eye (same angle) and watch the level in the MLT sight glass by using a binder clip placed on the sight glass. If over a ~30 second period it goes up or down I tweak the water pump ball valve slightly, reposition the binder clip and try again for ~30 seconds. I find it only takes 2-3 subtle tweaks to get the two to match since it's usually very close when I first adjust the ball valve by eye to get the same angle. With the linear flow valves there's no angle - the unit does screw in and out so you have to use that to judge but it's not as obvious as the angle.
On these pumps however you're forced to use the linear flow valve as it's integrated into the head.
Either way, nice to have choices! There's more than one way to do things.
Kal
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We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
Last edited by kal on Fri May 12, 2017 4:53 pm; edited 1 time in total
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wscottcross
Joined: 03 Jul 2015
Posts: 212
Location: CT
Drinking: Launch IPA, Double Sunshine clone, Maple Coffee breakfast stout
Working on: expanding my beer horizons (and my beltline)
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| Link Posted: Fri May 12, 2017 1:24 pm Post subject: |
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[quote="dp Brewing Company"] | kal wrote: |
...
If my wort was moving faster than the sparge water I could adjust one slightly to equal them out. Right now with ball valves it is really hard to fine tune the flow. Yes the open and close as you stated is easier with ball valves for full on/off flow. May have to still have a ball valve on the outlet for that reason, but for sparging I think the linear valve might be worth trying.
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I'm a fan of the Blichmann autsparge with our setup. It's so nice when you're trying to do a 90 minute sparge to only adjust the wort valve and let the autosparge device handle the sparge water flow automatically.
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Kal clone controller, 30 gallon Spike Brewing kettles, 6 tap keezer
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kal
Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11120
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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ghandlin
Joined: 09 Oct 2016
Posts: 96
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| Link Posted: Wed May 17, 2017 7:28 pm Post subject: |
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Interesting review to consider
https://youtu.be/QFvHAs0LXrA
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George Handlin
Hands and Feat Brewing
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kal
Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11120
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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| Link Posted: Wed May 17, 2017 8:12 pm Post subject: |
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FYI - The mention about PBW dissolving teflon is not accurate I'm afraid. If it was, the ball lock seats and teflon tape that many brewers use would disintegrate too. So do not be concerned with using PBW on the sort of teflon we use in our breweries (ball locks, teflon tape, pumps, etc). The PBW manufacturer (Five Star) has also confirmed this if you Google around a bit (you'll find people who called them directly to ask)... There was a BrewStrong show on cleaning some years back where Five Star was the guest and re-confirmed that PBW is fine to use on teflon tape which is the same sort of teflon used on pumps and ball valves. See: http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/post443/
Kal
_________________
Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
Last edited by kal on Wed May 17, 2017 9:13 pm; edited 1 time in total
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ghandlin
Joined: 09 Oct 2016
Posts: 96
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| Link Posted: Wed May 17, 2017 8:18 pm Post subject: |
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I wasn't even thinking of that part, but glad you brought it up. I was thinking more of the innards and the velocity. Of course, it seems both of the other pumps he uses are used, so that could have something to do with it, but the impeller blade looks quite interesting.
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George Handlin
Hands and Feat Brewing
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kal
Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11120
Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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mjo2125
Joined: 27 Feb 2017
Posts: 248
Location: Dayton, OH
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| Link Posted: Tue Nov 07, 2017 10:32 am Post subject: |
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Got the opportunity to see the Riptide pumps in action during the BYO boot camp and they were super quiet and easy to prime (no violent discharge of hot water or wort from the vent valve) Super easy to adjust with Blichmann's valves and recirculation flow remained steady. I'll order these as part of my electric set-up.
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sillbeer
Joined: 15 Sep 2016
Posts: 44
Location: West Point, UT
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| Link Posted: Wed Nov 08, 2017 12:27 am Post subject: |
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I've used mine a few times and have really enjoyed them. They are super quiet. I haven't found the vent valve to be of much use. I regularly pull it expecting it to prime but it doesn't. I haven't ran into them making a mess but then again I don't hold it open for long which could also be a reason they aren't priming.
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