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Heating Element, Locknut

 
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fseider




Joined: 10 May 2013
Posts: 156
Location: Two Naked Frogs Brewery; Reading, PA (USA); Interests: Beer, Frogs, Steampunk, Being Naked


PostLink    Posted: Sun May 22, 2016 8:37 pm    Post subject: Heating Element, Locknut Reply with quote


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I have to believe I am looking over something here. Trying to install the heating element into the 20 Gal Blickman (Kal Klone). I have received the heating element assembled through the site here, but it was about 2 1/2 years ago (long story). I am on this page:

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/heating-elements?page=7

What I'm confused about, and maybe just overlooking something obvious, but on top of the page:

" The Camco #02963 5500W heating element is held in place by a large 1" NPS stainless steel lock nut inside the kettle."

Then about a third of the way down the illustration again mentions the 1" stainless locknut.

As this is a 1 1/4 inch hole I put in the kettle (and cried slightly, as I'm sure others have as well), and considering the heating element just squeezed in the hole, shouldn't this be described as a 1 1/4 locknut? (Which was supplied to me in the kit) What am I not looking at correctly?

I did put the nut I do have on (came with the heating element assembled kit), tightened, and am doing a static leak test, and so far no leak issues.

On a related note - The locknut I do have has a recess on one side. The images on the site have this recess towards the inside of the kettle, so effectively having no bearing on anything. This almost seems like it could accommodate an o-ring if you turn the nut around and have the recess against the kettle wall. Wouldn't using another o-ring within this recess be better insurance against a potential leak?

Thanks in advance!

Fred
Two Naked Frogs Brewery

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Fred Seider
Two Naked Frogs Brewery, Winery, & Meadery
Reading, PA
"What's in your goblet?!"
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Ben58




Joined: 14 Aug 2011
Posts: 409
Location: Hamilton, Ontario


PostLink    Posted: Sun May 22, 2016 9:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pipe is measured on the inside diameter. So in this case, considering the wall thickness of the pipe gets you 1 1/4" outside diameter. This applies to all pipe up to and including 12", after that it references to the OD ( outside diameter ). This is all from ASME ( American Society of Mechanical Engineers ).
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Sun May 22, 2016 10:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ben58 is correct. National Pipe Thread (NPT) is not the physical (measured) size.

Kal

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fseider




Joined: 10 May 2013
Posts: 156
Location: Two Naked Frogs Brewery; Reading, PA (USA); Interests: Beer, Frogs, Steampunk, Being Naked


PostLink    Posted: Sun May 22, 2016 10:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for the quick response all. I learn something new every day.
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Fred Seider
Two Naked Frogs Brewery, Winery, & Meadery
Reading, PA
"What's in your goblet?!"
---
Model 30A; SN 0130
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daboyce67




Joined: 15 Aug 2014
Posts: 43
Location: Hayward, Wisconsin


PostLink    Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2016 7:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just received my preassembled elements this weekend and had a similar question. I also have the similar concerns as to theinside locknut. So it's a 1" NPT nut and, obviously flat. Therefore we have a 1 1/2" flat locknut surface butting up against the inside of the kettle (in my case, also a 20 gallon Blichmann) which obviously is curved. When tightened down there is going to be, on the inside of the kettle, a bit of a gap where "curve" meets "flat". I would like to think that since we're not the first ones doing this install that this is of no concern. Am I correct or is this an issue and I'm missing something?

And, assuming it isn't an issue, what about the poster's question concerning adding a silicon washer on the inside of the kettle and flipping the locknut around so its recess fits over the silicon washer and against the kettle wall? Totally unnecessary ...?
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2016 8:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

daboyce67 wrote:
I just received my preassembled elements this weekend and had a similar question. I also have the similar concerns as to theinside locknut. So it's a 1" NPT nut and, obviously flat. Therefore we have a 1 1/2" flat locknut surface butting up against the inside of the kettle (in my case, also a 20 gallon Blichmann) which obviously is curved. When tightened down there is going to be, on the inside of the kettle, a bit of a gap where "curve" meets "flat". I would like to think that since we're not the first ones doing this install that this is of no concern. Am I correct or is this an issue and I'm missing something?

The seal is made using the silicone o-ring, not the metal on metal surface.

See the installation instructions here: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/heating-elements?page=7
(There's a breakaway picture towards the bottom that shows how it works)

This method of sealing is identical to what Blichmann does with all their fittings on their stock Boilermaker kettles (nothing is welded on a stock Boilermaker - the sight glass, thermometer, and ball valve are all attached the same way). For complete details, see our kettles article: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/kettles-overview
(Specifically the section "Going Weldless").

Quote:
And, assuming it isn't an issue, what about the poster's question concerning adding a silicon washer on the inside of the kettle and flipping the locknut around so its recess fits over the silicon washer and against the kettle wall? Totally unnecessary ...?

I recommend following our installation instructions (link above). Nothing more needs to be done.

Good luck!

Kal

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