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Islandbrewer
Joined: 26 Jan 2016 Posts: 4
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Link Posted: Wed Jan 27, 2016 10:55 pm Post subject: |
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No problem, that's understandable and expected. I'm sure we'll be able to stare at the schematics long enough to figure it out!
Thanks for the reply,
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Master
Joined: 30 Jan 2016 Posts: 171 Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Drinking: Naked Singularity Stout, Hurricane Bohemian Pilsner, Pineapple Cider, Ich bin ein Berlinerweiss, AbbyNormal Glutton Free Lambic
Working on: Vienna Lager. Witty name to follow.
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Link Posted: Sat Jan 30, 2016 3:06 am Post subject: |
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I'm starting to build my 50A back to back tomorrow, enough parts are now here to do something useful with them.
Changes from the "Standard" (I bought a precut 30A box before I figured I have the power to do BTB);.
-Red alarm light omitted, reset button in it's location
-Single cord, with a 3/4" cable grip in a plate cover cut to make the hole for the 14L-30 flanged plug work.
-Slightly different Volt/Amp meter and a Frequency meter (we tend to have drooping frequency in advance of brownout in summer here)
-Auber JSL-73 timer, could not source an Omega without a heinous lead time
Quick question, where 1/8" and 3/16" Stove bolts are specified, I'm using I think #8 and #6 Machine screws, as those sizes just don't exist here.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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gleoncavallo
Joined: 11 Jan 2016 Posts: 3 Location: Chapel Hill, NC
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Link Posted: Sun Jan 31, 2016 5:46 pm Post subject: |
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I love this kit! Easy to set-up and modify (second timer & 3rd pump). I cannot wait to use.
When testing/calibrating the PIDs controlling the heating elements I blew the fuses to that were provided with the kit - 4x 25A glass fuses. The write specifies 4x 30A glass fuses. I have replaced with 30A and all is working as expected.
Please confirm the 30A glass fuse is the correct fuse spec to use for the two heating elements.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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wscottcross
Joined: 03 Jul 2015 Posts: 212 Location: CT
Drinking: Launch IPA, Double Sunshine clone, Maple Coffee breakfast stout
Working on: expanding my beer horizons (and my beltline)
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Link Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2016 3:10 pm Post subject: |
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I had alot of trouble locating 30A fuse holders. The ones I did find used spade terminal and I just didn't trust them. I ended up purchasing 30A DIN mounted breakers from http://www.ebrewsupply.com/30a-double-pole-breaker/
Last edited by wscottcross on Mon Feb 01, 2016 5:37 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Master
Joined: 30 Jan 2016 Posts: 171 Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Drinking: Naked Singularity Stout, Hurricane Bohemian Pilsner, Pineapple Cider, Ich bin ein Berlinerweiss, AbbyNormal Glutton Free Lambic
Working on: Vienna Lager. Witty name to follow.
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Link Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2016 3:15 pm Post subject: |
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30A without spades was also a hard one to find here.
I ended up getting some surplus ones off of Ebay. I was about to go the DIN Breaker route when I found them.
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gleoncavallo
Joined: 11 Jan 2016 Posts: 3 Location: Chapel Hill, NC
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Link Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2016 8:34 pm Post subject: |
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Thank you all for the quick and helpful replies.
@ wscottcross - 2x 30A DIN mounted breakers ordered, this will work great as I had replaced the hot & neutral bus with a din solution and have room on the rail.
I am at a bit of a standstill since for unknown reasons the power supply is now DOA. Power at the sub-panel and breaker - no power through the cord to b2b box. Cord was electrician installed - I have a call in for a service appt.
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wscottcross
Joined: 03 Jul 2015 Posts: 212 Location: CT
Drinking: Launch IPA, Double Sunshine clone, Maple Coffee breakfast stout
Working on: expanding my beer horizons (and my beltline)
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Link Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2016 9:00 pm Post subject: |
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gleoncavallo wrote: |
Thank you all for the quick and helpful replies.
@ wscottcross - 2x 30A DIN mounted breakers ordered, this will work great as I had replaced the hot & neutral bus with a din solution and have room on the rail.
I am at a bit of a standstill since for unknown reasons the power supply is now DOA. Power at the sub-panel and breaker - no power through the cord to b2b box. Cord was electrician installed - I have a call in for a service appt. |
What DIN terminal blocks are you using?
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gleoncavallo
Joined: 11 Jan 2016 Posts: 3 Location: Chapel Hill, NC
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wscottcross
Joined: 03 Jul 2015 Posts: 212 Location: CT
Drinking: Launch IPA, Double Sunshine clone, Maple Coffee breakfast stout
Working on: expanding my beer horizons (and my beltline)
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Link Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2016 12:34 pm Post subject: |
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If I ever build another control panel, I'll definitely get most of the stuff from them. I like the prepunched enclosures they have. It wouldn't have worked for my B2B 50A setup, but even the base enclosure with the heatsink would have helped. I will definitely go all DIN mounted next time. I have a habit of changing things as I go and DIN makes that easy.
_________________ Kal clone controller, 30 gallon Spike Brewing kettles, 6 tap keezer
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Master
Joined: 30 Jan 2016 Posts: 171 Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Drinking: Naked Singularity Stout, Hurricane Bohemian Pilsner, Pineapple Cider, Ich bin ein Berlinerweiss, AbbyNormal Glutton Free Lambic
Working on: Vienna Lager. Witty name to follow.
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Link Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2016 8:23 pm Post subject: |
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I've actually made their prepunched enclosure work with 50A B2B.
I'm punching one more hole under the alarm buzzer, and in-line with the row of element switches and element on lights.
So basically, Boil element On/Off is over the Right PID, Boil Element ON light is over the timer, HLT is over left PID, and HLT element on is over center PID. Reset button is in new hole. I contemplated just omitting the alarm light, but it's not that hard to make one hole. The Auber boxes don't have the cable way JB welded onto the box, it's a solid box, but otherwise identical to Kai's one.
Auber has been great to me so far.. So of course now I'm looking at putting other things they have controllers for together, like a controller for my crawlspace ventilation to pull in cool outside air, and my attic fans to run with it's cooler outside than in the attic.
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wscottcross
Joined: 03 Jul 2015 Posts: 212 Location: CT
Drinking: Launch IPA, Double Sunshine clone, Maple Coffee breakfast stout
Working on: expanding my beer horizons (and my beltline)
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Link Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2016 12:07 pm Post subject: |
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I'm using a single Volts/Amps meter so the prepunched panel doesn't really work for that. I do like that it has no cable entry plate and the heatsink is premounted. Having it primed black is also a nice feature since pretty much everyone is repainting them anyway. Auber is on my short list of suppliers.
_________________ Kal clone controller, 30 gallon Spike Brewing kettles, 6 tap keezer
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Master
Joined: 30 Jan 2016 Posts: 171 Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Drinking: Naked Singularity Stout, Hurricane Bohemian Pilsner, Pineapple Cider, Ich bin ein Berlinerweiss, AbbyNormal Glutton Free Lambic
Working on: Vienna Lager. Witty name to follow.
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barleyboy
Joined: 08 Feb 2017 Posts: 5
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Link Posted: Mon Mar 13, 2017 8:36 pm Post subject: |
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My fuse holder between 30A contactors and elements melted! This was my first test run on the new controller. The boil element stopped working so had to switch it to the hlt plug.
Has anyone had their holders melt. it was suppose to be rated for 30A 300V.
Did I do something wrong?
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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barleyboy
Joined: 08 Feb 2017 Posts: 5
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Link Posted: Mon Mar 13, 2017 8:48 pm Post subject: |
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No kit this was a just built off the plans. Think its just crappy holders?
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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grimyhobosack
Joined: 03 Mar 2017 Posts: 1
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Link Posted: Thu Mar 30, 2017 2:03 am Post subject: |
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Would the 110V versions of the 25A and 63A DIN rail contactors from Auber work for driving the 4,500W elements and main power respectively? My math puts a 4,500 Watt @ 240V heating element at 18.75A, so using that and dropping the fuses to 25A seems like it would be fine. The specs list "Rated Operational Voltage (Ue) ~: 230V" and "AC-7a (for slightly inductive loads) Operational power rating: 4kw". I think both of those specs are fine, but wanted to double check with people who know more than me.
Other thought I had was if the 63A contactor had large enough inputs for 6AWG wire.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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