FAQ: Adapting for a 30 gallon/1 bbl (or larger) setup

**kal** · Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2015 3:01 pm Post subject:

pmcint01 · Joined: 02 Feb 2015 Posts: 20

So I would simply run a 14ga wire from the number 1 on the Power in contactor to the fuse holder and then to the hot bus?

Thanks for your help.

Paul

**kal** · Posted: Tue Dec 08, 2015 4:13 pm Post subject:

BigMike

Apologies if I missed it somewhere, or if I'm reading the diagram incorrectly...

But the 14 gauge Neutral wire does not make solid connection with the 50amp California Style connector included in the control panel kit. After tightening, the wire pulls right out.

I had a blue 14g spade crimp-connector in my toolbox, and that seems to make good purchase in the connection, but I'm curious about using the 14g neutral wire connection from the bus to the 50amp connector, which was designed for 6 gauge wire connections and won't hold the 14g alone.

Diagram:

Connector with W closed as far as it will go, still too large of a gap for stripped 14g wire:

Has anyone else tackled this issue in a different/better way?

Thanks,
Mike

**kal**

BigMike

**kal** · Posted: Sun Sep 11, 2016 7:41 pm Post subject:

Thanks Mike - good pictures. Best we wait for Mike of Spike Innovations to chime in on this. They've built hundreds of these and will offer suggestions. Doubling up 2-3 wires (twisted together) that go to the NEUTRAL bus is one option.

Kal

**kal** · Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2016 7:29 pm Post subject:

GLRRA47 · Joined: 20 Dec 2015 Posts: 41 Location: Ohio

Hi Kal - wiring my 50 A panel and I have a quick question. The 50 A adaptation notes:

"The POWER KEY switch was previously wired directly to the POWER IN RELAY coil (per the POWER INPUT wiring diagram above). This wire must be removed otherwise the interlock feature will be bypassed and the control panel will power up regardless of how the three other switches are set."

*The last page of the adaptation has a picture showing a black 14 GA wire going from the hot #1 Y side of the contactor to the power key switch. Am I to leave it as the picture shows or remove it as noted in the quote above. (It's not coming from the "coil", so I suspect I wire as the picture shows?

Thanks

**kal** · Posted: Sun Dec 11, 2016 11:57 pm Post subject:

GLRRA47 · Joined: 20 Dec 2015 Posts: 41 Location: Ohio

Got it. Thanks for the fast reply!

GLRRA47 · Joined: 20 Dec 2015 Posts: 41 Location: Ohio

However, the 50 A adaptation (on the picture showing how to wire - in the shunt), does show a 14 GA black wire going from the "coil" left side of the power in contactor - to the top of the NO power key switch. That's OK - even though it is connected to the coil? (The safe start wiring picture doesn't show that wire - in fact it shows the wire from the coil going to the interlock relay?)

So, do I follow both pictures and run one 14 GA wire from the coil side of the power in contactor to the top of the power key switch and one to the #3 spot on the interlock relay?

**kal** · Posted: Mon Dec 12, 2016 1:29 am Post subject:

The 50A diagrams in these instructions in this thread are meant to replace those from the 30A standard build.

The safe start is optional in all builds so the wiring in the safe start is contradictory, or a change, to what was done in previous diagrams. This is normal. You can completely skip the safe start if you like and have a functional panel.

Wire per the diagrams, in order, and then if you'd like to include the safe start, some of the previous wiring will be undone/replaced as per the instructions for the safe start.

Please note that it is important that you still read the instructions for our standard 30A control panel build to make sure nothing important is missed. Often hints, tips or caveats are given. Do not build only using the wiring diagrams and instructions in this thread. You will most likely miss things.

Kal

GLRRA47 · Joined: 20 Dec 2015 Posts: 41 Location: Ohio

Yep - I've been reading / following the 30 A instructions, but didn't realize the safe start was an optional set-up that would require removal of some previously installed wire. Make more sense now that I understand that.

Thanks

**kal** · Posted: Tue Dec 13, 2016 2:56 am Post subject:

No worries - good luck with the rest of your build!

Kal

Creepy · Posted: Thu Mar 30, 2017 3:22 am Post subject:

Kal, random quick question for you... approximately how much does the pre-built 50A 30+ gallon panel weight? Looking at articulating TV mounts for it now. Thanks.

**kal** · Posted: Thu Mar 30, 2017 4:10 am Post subject:

Hi Creepy! Not random at all - see our order page here for specs: http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel

Weight: Approximately 42 lbs (30A panel) or 45 lbs (50A panel)
Dimensions: 18-1/2" H x 16" W x 9-1/8" D (470 x 407 x 232 mm)
Shipping box dimensions (assembled): 23" x 20" x 15" (584 x 508 x 381 mm)
Shipping box dimensions (DIY kit): 17" x 17" x 10" (432 x 432 x 254 mm)

Kal

Creepy · Posted: Fri Mar 31, 2017 2:38 am Post subject:

Thanks Kal. Apparently I'm just learning to read (should have looked a bit closer). Mug

**kal** · Posted: Fri Mar 31, 2017 4:19 am Post subject:

Lots of information on this site - it's easy to miss stuff. Wink

Good luck!

Kal

themoose · Joined: 10 May 2017 Posts: 11 Location: 60069

Quick question, planning on starting my build soon. My plan is to start a 2 barrel nanobrewery a year or 2 down the road. My question is this: can I make 10-20 gallon batches in the meantime using the blichmann 55 gallon kettles with the extensions? I need to perfect my recipes but don't want to test them 62 gallons at a time. I also don't want to buy 20 gallon kettles and then have to upgrade them in a year unless there is no other choice. Thanks for any insight.