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Will_D
Joined: 21 Oct 2014 Posts: 7 Location: Baton Rouge, La
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Link Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2015 12:45 am Post subject: |
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So I built my own panel from parts that I got myself (I have a friend at an electrical supply store). I brewed about 5 batches and everything worked just fine. On my last batch I had to turn on/off my HLT element to keep it at temperature. The element will fire and heat my water to strike temp but it won't turn off. I have auto tuned it since then and even during auto tune it keeps firing the element, it got to 185 when the set point was 152. The PID (Auber-2352) light stays on like it should be firing the element, when it clearly shouldn't. The yellow light also stays on. Any tips or things I can try to fix this problem? Thanks for any help.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Will_D
Joined: 21 Oct 2014 Posts: 7 Location: Baton Rouge, La
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Link Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2015 1:11 am Post subject: |
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Well, that's not what I wanted to hear. I guess I'll be contacting Auber Ins. tomorrow.
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Will_D
Joined: 21 Oct 2014 Posts: 7 Location: Baton Rouge, La
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Link Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2015 1:12 am Post subject: |
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And thanks for the quick response Kal.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2015 1:19 am Post subject: |
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While it's a long shot, you can confirm/try resetting all the settings to the default values first and then only changing the ones we outline in our setup instructions here: www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-setup
Maybe there's an off chance that somehow the P/I/D settings got changed somehow such that it over or undershoots like crazy (a heavily dampened system). Unlikely, but should be a quick to check.
I mentioned earlier to also make sure you're truly in auto mode and not manual as there's a way to be in manual but have the display appear to be in auto - that can trip some people up. If set right per our instructions the HLT should only allow AUTO mode (not manual) however.
The boil PID can do both and if programmed with the correct settings it will work in both AUTOMATIC and MANUAL modes. Press the "A/M" button until the "A-M" light is on, meaning that the PID is in MANUAL mode. Press the UP/DOWN buttons on the Boil Element PID until the lower green SV number reads "M 100". (If the "M" is not displayed press the SET button to switch the display mode). This will tell the BOIL SSR to run 100% of the time.
Kal
Kal
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My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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Will_D
Joined: 21 Oct 2014 Posts: 7 Location: Baton Rouge, La
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Link Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2015 1:29 am Post subject: |
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I've triple checked every setting, all are like they should be. And it's in auto. I'm going to get with Auber tomorrow and see if they can walk me thru a quick fix, but I'm not real confident. Thanks again for the help.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Will_D
Joined: 21 Oct 2014 Posts: 7 Location: Baton Rouge, La
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Link Posted: Thu Sep 24, 2015 12:33 pm Post subject: |
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I finally had some time to fool around with it again last night and I swapped the HLT PID with the Mash Tun PID and have the same problem. I set all the settings like instructed in the set up guide and it still won't turn the element off. The light on the PID that indicates it should be firing the element does go off, but the yellow I indicator light stays on and the element continues to fire. Could I have a bad SSR?
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Thu Sep 24, 2015 1:41 pm Post subject: |
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Will_D wrote: | I finally had some time to fool around with it again last night and I swapped the HLT PID with the Mash Tun PID and have the same problem. I set all the settings like instructed in the set up guide and it still won't turn the element off. The light on the PID that indicates it should be firing the element does go off, but the yellow I indicator light stays on and the element continues to fire. Could I have a bad SSR? |
Take a look at the section of the first post in this thread called "My heating element is not firing at all! (or firing continuously)" for a step by step walkthrough to determine where the problem is. It could be the SSR, could be incorrect wiring, and could be operator error too.
Kal
_________________ Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2016 3:49 am Post subject: |
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Added a new tip:
Quote: | The electrical panel GFI breaker trips as soon as I plug in the panel!
If the GFI breaker trips as soon as you plug in the panel, the GFI breaker may be wired incorrectly. This is especially true if using a panel that has been pre-assembled by us as they are all tested under load for at least one hour. Mis-wired GFI breakers is very common, even by licenced electricians. Check that the GFI breaker NEUTRAL wire (white) coming from the wall outlet is connected to the breaker NEUTRAL pole and that the white pigtail wire from the GFI breaker is connected to the neutral bus bar in the electrical panel. What is often done incorrectly is that the NEUTRAL wire (white) coming from the wall outlet is connected directly to the neutral bus bar in the electrical panel with the pigtail. More information |
Posting this because we just had another case of troubleshooting a pre-built panel that was tripping the GFI breaker because a licenced electrician wired it incorrectly (even the electrician called out to inspect insisted it was done correctly, but it was not: The wall outlet neutral was incorrectly connected to the neutral bus bar in the electrical panel).
Kal
_________________ Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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cmkopp11
Joined: 26 Jan 2018 Posts: 19 Location: San Diego
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Link Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 7:12 pm Post subject: |
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Is the timer supposed to continually count down no matter what? I tried pressing e and p together to reset and that didn't work. Am I doing something wrong or did I miss a connection. I triple checked everything and all continuity checks were good. Only issue I'm having is the timer operation.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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cmkopp11
Joined: 26 Jan 2018 Posts: 19 Location: San Diego
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Link Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2018 7:23 pm Post subject: |
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Reading caught me again... lol
Well other then that, everything seems to be working just fine. Will start a CIP cycle later to test pumps and elements.
Thanks again Kal!
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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zimmekt
Joined: 23 Dec 2015 Posts: 10 Location: Lakewood, Ohio
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Link Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2018 10:05 pm Post subject: Amp Meter/Power Supply |
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During initial power up of my DIY kit panel I got ahead of myself and didn't test the power supply voltage heading to the amp meter prior to connecting it. It started getting hot and smelled hot. I powered down and disconnect and started to try and meter down the power output coming out of the power supply for the amp meter.
During this I was measuring roughly 24 volts coming out of the transformer into the power supply and 24 coming back out. No matter which direction I turned the adjustment screw I was unable to get the voltage to drop at all. While fiddling around and trying to get the voltage into the correct range the power supply started smoking and a diode on it became discolored. I believe I need to order both a new power supply and amp meter. Do you know of any issues with bad power supplies or have any guesses as to what might be mis-wired to cause this?
Also, am I good to continue troubleshooting the rest of the panel operation without a amp meter. It doesn't appear any other component is drawing information from the amp meter. I assume it is just there for monitoring purposes rather than any critical operating information.
Thanks for any help.
Kyle
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2018 10:45 pm Post subject: Re: Amp Meter/Power Supply |
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Hi Kyle,
Email is at sales@TheElectricBrewery.com with your original order info (so we can correlate/figure out what you have) and we'll get this resolved for you / send you replacement parts.
Quote: | Also, am I good to continue troubleshooting the rest of the panel operation without a amp meter. It doesn't appear any other component is drawing information from the amp meter. I assume it is just there for monitoring purposes rather than any critical operating information. |
Correct. If you're having issues with either meter, I would simply disconnect the transformers completely and continue on (make sure that there are no bare wires that could short out anywhere - covering the tips with electrical tape can help). The meters are not required to make the rest of the panel work.
Cheers!
Kal
_________________ Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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Berdockamber
Joined: 07 Jun 2018 Posts: 1 Location: Eagle Creek Oregon
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Link Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 1:19 am Post subject: |
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Help, I have the 30 amp control panel, on the Boil kettle switch I can here the relay pickup but the yellow light flashes and goes out and have no power to the element. HLT works fine what would cause this issue with the boil kettle. Im dead until I can figure it out, like I said I can what the relay pull in, the boil Kettle light flashes on the goes out no power to the element.
One other iss is the Omega timer numbers are so dim I cant read it, is the a way to brighten it?
Thank Dave
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2018 2:56 am Post subject: |
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Berdockamber wrote: | Help, I have the 30 amp control panel, on the Boil kettle switch I can here the relay pickup but the yellow light flashes and goes out and have no power to the element. HLT works fine what would cause this issue with the boil kettle. Im dead until I can figure it out, like I said I can what the relay pull in, the boil Kettle light flashes on the goes out no power to the element.
One other iss is the Omega timer numbers are so dim I cant read it, is the a way to brighten it?
Thank Dave |
Hi Dave,
You emailed us on Monday June 4th a few times and I responded - the last email was 10 minutes after your last questions with some hints and additional questions. Let me know if you didn't get it.
You are using a control panel kit that you purchased second hand from someone that assembled a kit from us 7 years ago, along with some extra items that the previous owner did not purchase from us. It's not entirely clear what you are using per my emails.
You mentioned issues with a shorting tri-clamp heating element (you wrote: "a few issues one with the boil kettle, the ground came off I heard a pop"), so we'll need more detail on that as it's not a product we've sold ourselves - we need to understand what you're doing and what you're using. If you're having shorting elements and hearing 'pops' there's definitely something not right but given that it's not something we've sold we have no idea what's being used, how things were assembled, or are being used so it's hard to assist.
If you could reply to my last email from June 4th with some detailed information on exactly what you're using we can help you through email like we were before. Please include some pictures of the inside and outside of the control panel as well as inside/outside whatever heating element assemblies you are using and we'll take a peek and offer suggestions.
Cheers!
Kal
_________________ Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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LMartin
Joined: 25 Dec 2012 Posts: 22 Location: Brookfield, WI
Drinking: Brown Shugga, Bridgeburner, Accidental Amber, Electric IPA
Working on: Red IPA
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Link Posted: Sun Jul 29, 2018 3:24 pm Post subject: |
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Started the process for adjusting the PIDs, beginning with the Boil Temp. After adjusting a couple of parameters, the PID now is flashing at both PV and SV. The flashing at both shows "orAL" and alternates between PV and SV. I'm guessing its some error code, even reviewing the device instruction manual online I can't figure out what is going wrong.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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