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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11121 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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ohararp
Joined: 30 Aug 2011 Posts: 29
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Link Posted: Tue Jul 03, 2012 2:24 am Post subject: |
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I just wanted to say that I'll be brewing this up on the 4th of July. Looking forward to it.
_________________ Ryan O'Hara
www.ohararp.com
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ohararp
Joined: 30 Aug 2011 Posts: 29
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Link Posted: Wed Jul 25, 2012 3:32 am Post subject: |
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I just wanted to say that this came out pretty awesome. 3 weeks after brewing and I am enjoying this great beer! It's got a great floral aroma and the hop bitterness is not very high. Granted I love DIPAs. Very good summer brew. 1.072 OG and 1.014 FG. Came out at 7.7% ABV so it'll catch up to you on a hot day!
I have a keggle setup and ended up using whole leaf hops with this and my false bottom for the boil kettle. I added a small stainless scrubby around the dip tube and solved all of my big IPA hop clogging issues.
I've attached a copy of the Beersmith bsmx file. Just rename and you can easily import this.
Thanks for the great recipe Kal!
Description: |
Kal's West Coast IPA - Ohararp |
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48.95 KB |
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Description: |
Beersmith 2 recipe - rename to *.bsmx |
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Ryan's West Coast IPA.bsmx.txt |
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2565 Time(s) |
_________________ Ryan O'Hara
www.ohararp.com
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11121 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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lostdruid
Joined: 02 Jan 2013 Posts: 6 Location: Johns Creek, GA
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Link Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2013 6:42 am Post subject: Two questions |
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1) How much gelatin do you add?
2) Do you use pellets or leaves?
_________________ - The Lost Druid
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11121 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2013 2:13 pm Post subject: Re: Two questions |
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lostdruid wrote: | 1) How much gelatin do you add? |
For complete brewing instructions, see our Brew Day: Step by Step guide. To quote:
Quote: | All beer will eventually clear on its own if given enough time. We prefer to speed up the process as follows: Slowly dissolve one pouch of Knox unflavoured gelatin in a cup of warm distilled water and stir for a few minutes. Once clear, add it to the beer. The beer will become noticeably clearer within a few hours and be very clear within 3-4 days as the gelatine pulls suspended yeast and other solids to the bottom and forms a layer of sediment that will be left behind when packaging. |
One pouch is about 6-8g.
Quote: | 2) Do you use pellets or leaves? |
Pellets.
I like to use pellet 99% of the time because (a) they're cheaper, (b) they compact better for storage, (c) they stay fresher longer, (d) more varieties are available, (e) less vegetal matter in the boil kettle/less wort soaked up & lost ... and probably a few other reasons I can't remember at the moment.
Kal
_________________ Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
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My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
Last edited by kal on Tue Jun 25, 2013 2:31 am; edited 2 times in total
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jclavel
Joined: 14 Aug 2012 Posts: 20
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Link Posted: Fri Feb 08, 2013 2:16 pm Post subject: |
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Brewed 10 gallons in this yesterday. Perfect numbers! Bubbling away at 65F. I'll post results later.
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jclavel
Joined: 14 Aug 2012 Posts: 20
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Link Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 3:51 am Post subject: |
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Absolutely spectacular. Great water profile suggestion! I love my brewery. Thanks Kal!
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11121 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Fri Jun 21, 2013 5:39 pm Post subject: |
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Update: I've made some changes to the recipe to turn this into an actual clone of Green Flash West Coast IPA. The changes were very subtle:
- Replace the Vienna malt with slightly less Carapils malt
- Increase the amount of Crystal 30-40L malt slightly
- Add a 90 min hop addition to bump up the bitterness a bit
- Tone down the 1 minute hop additions slightly
- Add Cascade to the list of dry hops
Enjoy!
Kal
_________________ Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
Last edited by kal on Thu Jul 18, 2013 1:16 pm; edited 1 time in total
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felon
Joined: 20 Aug 2012 Posts: 1 Location: Sydney, Australia
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Link Posted: Thu Jul 18, 2013 10:40 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for a great recipe Kal. I am drinking your older West Coast IPA version with the Vienna and love it. It certainly is a great big beer with loads of aroma and hop flavour without being overly bitter. Seems very well balanced.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11121 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11121 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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jim@gsp
Joined: 09 Dec 2014 Posts: 8 Location: Gig Harbor, WA
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Link Posted: Thu May 28, 2015 10:49 pm Post subject: When to dry hop this beer |
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Hi,
Can someone tell me if this recipe is calling for dry hopping in the primary fermenter or in the secondary?
Thanks
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11121 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Fri May 29, 2015 12:54 am Post subject: |
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Up to you but I usually do it in the fermenter as fermentation nears completion. From the recipe:
Quote: | Cool wort to 66F and aerate well. Ferment at 66-68F until complete.
Add dry hops once fermentation is nearing completion (ie: below 1.015). Dry hop for 7-10 days total.
Rack to brite tank (secondary)... |
Like most brewers today, I never recommend a secondary fermentation. In other words, never rack the beer while it's activity fermenting. So the idea of primary or secondary fermenter no longer exists since you don't ferment in the secondary vessel. You have a fermenter, and you have a clearing vessel (sometimes called a brite or bright tank).
Kal
_________________ Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
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jim@gsp
Joined: 09 Dec 2014 Posts: 8 Location: Gig Harbor, WA
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Link Posted: Fri May 29, 2015 1:12 am Post subject: |
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Thanks, Kal!
I don't use a secondary fermenter. I rack from the primary to a bright tank.
What had be confused is this from the recipe:
1.0 oz Columbus Hops (12.3%) - added dry to secondary fermenter
1.0 oz Simcoe Hops (12.2%) - added dry to secondary fermenter
1.0 oz Centennial Hops (9.2%) - added dry to secondary fermenter
1.0 oz Cascade Hops (6.0%) - added dry to secondary fermenter
1.0 oz Amarillo Hops (8.2%) - added dry to secondary fermenter
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jim@gsp
Joined: 09 Dec 2014 Posts: 8 Location: Gig Harbor, WA
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Link Posted: Fri May 29, 2015 1:22 am Post subject: |
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I have not had good results with dry hopping to the primary, but I believe that may be due to errors in my previous method.
I use a conical in a closed system.
My plan is to experiment with dry hopping with pellets after the gravity drops to -1.015. I will disconnect the blow-off tube tri-clamp and add the pellets through that opening. I will not re-connect the blow-off, just use a tri-clamp block-off plate.
Do you purge the headspace with CO2 after you dry hop?
Do you add CO2 at any point after dry hopping using a bottom port?
Thanks.
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11121 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Fri May 29, 2015 2:23 am Post subject: |
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jim@gsp wrote: | What had be confused is this from the recipe:
1.0 oz Columbus Hops (12.3%) - added dry to secondary fermenter
1.0 oz Simcoe Hops (12.2%) - added dry to secondary fermenter
1.0 oz Centennial Hops (9.2%) - added dry to secondary fermenter
1.0 oz Cascade Hops (6.0%) - added dry to secondary fermenter
1.0 oz Amarillo Hops (8.2%) - added dry to secondary fermenter |
Ha! Good point. I need to maybe rethink the wording on that. It comes straight from my brewing software. I can see how that may be confusing.
You may of course dry hop in your second vessel if you like. It's really up to you.
jim@gsp wrote: | Do you purge the headspace with CO2 after you dry hop? |
There's no need to if you do this in the primary since the vessel will be completely full of CO2. CO2 is heavier than air so taking the airlock off, dropping in some pellets, and re-adding the airlock means that no O2 has entered. If you feel some O2 may have gotten in, by all means purge.
Quote: | Do you add CO2 at any point after dry hopping using a bottom port? |
I use fermentation buckets and glass carboys. So no bottom port. I wouldn't add CO2 through a bottom port on any vessel that has one as that would probably bubble up and make a mess/cause lots of foam, not to mention you may get wort/beer into the CO2 lines. I wouldn't do that.
I do use CO2 religiously to purge any vessel before I rack to it, be it a 5 gallon glass carboy (my brite tanks), or my kegs. This is especially critical with hoppy beers.
Good luck!
_________________ Our new shop with over 150 new products: shop.TheElectricBrewery.com
We ship worldwide and support our products and customers for life.
Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
My basement/bar/brewery build 2.0
Last edited by kal on Fri Aug 28, 2015 2:55 pm; edited 1 time in total
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jim@gsp
Joined: 09 Dec 2014 Posts: 8 Location: Gig Harbor, WA
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Link Posted: Fri May 29, 2015 3:21 am Post subject: |
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Thanks much!
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rvklein
Joined: 17 Jan 2011 Posts: 20
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Link Posted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 6:34 pm Post subject: |
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This is shockingly similar to my house IPA differences being the C Hop portion is more heavily Centennial & Cascade and I like MO as my go to base malt.
I won first place in our club's IPA competition this year after two years of 2nd place finishes with the same beer
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Dan Cook
Joined: 14 Jan 2015 Posts: 12 Location: Seattle
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Link Posted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 10:03 pm Post subject: Pre-Boil gravity vs. post-boil gravity for West Coast IPA |
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Kal, I see a WCIPA clone recipe at BrewersFriend.com (http://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/view/221865/green-flash-west-coast-ipa-clone). Not sure if it was you who created the BrewersFriend recipe or somebody else did and simply referenced you as the inspiration / source, but in any case the recipe calls for a pre-boil gravity of 1.048 and a target OG of 1.069. A 21-point (43%) rise in gravity seems like a lot. Do you ever plan for that much concentration, and if so do you boil for more than 90 mins to accomplish it?
I listened to the original podcast just this morning of The Jamil Show / "Can You Brew It?" for cloning this beer, and the brewer (I think it was Tasty McDole?) mentioned a concentration from pre-boil = 1.054 to OG = 1.069. That seems more in line with my own experience.
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