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Electric Brewing with 20 Amp 240V

 
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rmessenger




Joined: 22 Oct 2014
Posts: 14



PostLink    Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 4:32 am    Post subject: Electric Brewing with 20 Amp 240V Reply with quote


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I have a dedicated 20 Amp 240V outlet in my garage for my electric car, which seems like a logical outlet to use as I convert my brew day from propane to electric. It's not a GFI protected outlet (the car charge station has one built in, so it's no supposed to be), but I could add a GFI outlet to the line for brewing and just use one or the other outlet to not overload the circuit. If I do that, can I just buy the pre-assembled Electric Brewery elements to install on my kettles to brew 5 gallon batches? Would this work with my 20 Amp breaker? Are there better options out there for me? The information about the Electric Brewery element kits states that it can be used at 120V with reduce wattage, but this an option in my situation or would I have to upgrade the breaker and wire for my 240V line or would I have to get a lower wattage element like the Camco 02912/02913 to use on my 20 Amp breaker? Help!
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James Edmonton




Joined: 29 Jan 2014
Posts: 124
Location: Edmonton, AB

Drinking: West Coast Dry Hopped IPA

Working on: Session Ale


PostLink    Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 5:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes you could make this work. I make 5 gal batches and have a back to back 30 amp system. I used 2500 watt elements which draw about 10 amps. I built my system so that I could convert it too the bigger elements (no longer back to back) if I decided to go with the bigger kettles and element. You couldn't run a back to back system but you can run the element and pumps off a 20 amp 240v system. I would stick with 240v as it is more efficient for heating. You could even use a 3000 watt element, but I couldn't find one in the ultra low watt category.

I can get you the number of the element if you want, I just don't have it off the top of my head.

I would still build a 30 amp setup in case your future plans change, but use the smaller element in the kettle. You also should really use a gfci breaker (like you note) which you could might be able to buy in a cable to could easily rig up a small sub-panel that would plug into your outlet and then run to your panel. You probably have a few more options with the lower amperage GFCI as there are lots of companies that make and sell them.
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rmessenger




Joined: 22 Oct 2014
Posts: 14



PostLink    Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the reply. So would I just buy the Electric Brewery element kit and buy another lower wattage element to swap out?
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Kevin59




Joined: 03 Aug 2012
Posts: 1047
Location: Fort Collins, CO

Drinking: Imperial Brown Ale

Working on: Oatmeal Stout, IPA


PostLink    Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 2:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rmessenger wrote:
Thanks for the reply. So would I just buy the Electric Brewery element kit and buy another lower wattage element to swap out?


You could do that, or you could buy the pieces at your local big box hardware store and get the element you want.

Here's a 3500W ULWD element from Camco:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Q4CW4G/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001Q4CW4G&linkCode=as2&tag=theelectricbrewery-20&linkId=YW3KTEP436QJH7CP

(Link updated to support our site - thank you!)

Problem is I don't think that will fit in a smaller kettle if you're looking to do 5 gallon batches in say a 10 or 11 gallon BK, as the Camco literature says 15" minimum tank diameter.

Here's a 3500W low watt density element made by Camco that requires 11" minimum diameter:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006299I6/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0006299I6&linkCode=as2&tag=theelectricbrewery-20&linkId=6ZUX65RYHUIDUIVP

(Link updated to support our site - thank you!)

While it's not ultra low density I would imagine you wouldn't have any issues with scorching your wort.

I was hoping Camco's site might show actual watts per square inch for their elements, but I didn't see that. Doing a quick calculation for the element lengths versus wattage, with some guessing for effective element length:

3500W / (11" + 11" + 9" + 9") = 87.5W per inch of length

5500W / (15" + 15" + 13" + 13") = 98W per inch of length

So from that SWAG at watt density per length (not area) there wouldn't appear to be much difference between the 3500W LWD you could use, and the 5500W ULWD that's used in the documented system.

Cheers!
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rmessenger




Joined: 22 Oct 2014
Posts: 14



PostLink    Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 3:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you!
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James Edmonton




Joined: 29 Jan 2014
Posts: 124
Location: Edmonton, AB

Drinking: West Coast Dry Hopped IPA

Working on: Session Ale


PostLink    Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 8:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another option for you to consider is that you don't need the same size element in both kettles. In the HLT you don't necessarily need the ultra or low watt density elements as you are only heating water.

I use this element http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KKVZUY/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000KKVZUY&linkCode=as2&tag=theelectricbrewery-20&linkId=MLQG3DXVIYPMOVO4 in my setup and I know it works well and easily handles the job. Kevin is right - you need to make sure the other elements will fit in your kettle.

You will want to use an ultra low watt density element in your boil kettle, but could use a different one in your HLT. I heat more water than I boil - so if I were going to upgrade an element it would be that one.

Anyway - just a few more thoughts for you to consider. Many elements will work, it is up to you to decide which one will work in your system.
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rmessenger




Joined: 22 Oct 2014
Posts: 14



PostLink    Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 10:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

James Edmonton wrote:
Another option for you to consider is that you don't need the same size element in both kettles. In the HLT you don't necessarily need the ultra or low watt density elements as you are only heating water.

I use this element http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KKVZUY/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000KKVZUY&linkCode=as2&tag=theelectricbrewery-20&linkId=MLQG3DXVIYPMOVO4 in my setup and I know it works well and easily handles the job. Kevin is right - you need to make sure the other elements will fit in your kettle.

You will want to use an ultra low watt density element in your boil kettle, but could use a different one in your HLT. I heat more water than I boil - so if I were going to upgrade an element it would be that one.

Anyway - just a few more thoughts for you to consider. Many elements will work, it is up to you to decide which one will work in your system.


Thank you! I was feeling overwhelmed when I first started looking into this, and while reading old posts is helpful, most posts are are much more advanced than what I'm looking for (at least for now) and I felt uncertain about what I may be missing or misunderstanding. I appreciate the assistance with what is probably very basic information to folks here.
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