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Electric Pale Ale
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kal
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Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 2:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


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Sounds like a tasty recipe John!

I actually brewed my original recipe about 10 days ago... I was out and it's one beer that everyone seems to always ask for so it was time to make more...

Kal

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matto




Joined: 05 Dec 2013
Posts: 8
Location: Sydney, Australia


PostLink    Posted: Thu Dec 05, 2013 6:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I followed this recipe to the letter and am just now enjoying the first taste after bottle conditioning for a week. It is fantastic! Thanks for the great recipe!
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Thu Dec 05, 2013 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm glad you enjoyed it! I had a couple of pints of it myself last night after not having it for a month or so, and I have to say I really love the vibrant fruitiness - I didn't remember it being this good! (If I do say so myself). Wink

Kal

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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 2:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tried a variation on this recipe last time I brewed it (~2 weeks ago): Add the 20 minute hops as first wort hops (FWH) instead.

First Wort Hopping (FWH) is a process where hops are added to the boil kettle as the wort is being sparged from the mash/lauter tun. Why is this done? To quote How to Brew:

Quote:
As the boil tun fills with wort (which may take a half hour or longer), the hops steep in the hot wort and release their volatile oils and resins. The aromatic oils are normally insoluble and tend to evaporate to a large degree during the boil. By letting the hops steep in the wort prior to the boil, the oils have more time to oxidize to more soluble compounds and a greater percentage are retained during the boil.


The main reason (not mentioned above) as to why it's done however is that it brings a very smooth bitterness to the beer.

I just kegged this batch minutes ago. At first sampling (room temp, not carb'ed yet), bitterness level's about the same or maybe slightly lower (they say FWH is about as bitter as a 20 min addition for calculation purposes) but it does seem smoother. There are a few other recipes I've published that do use FWH but I've never done a comparison to really notice the difference. Maybe it's just my mind playing tricks on me but I seem to prefer it this way, but I may double up the FWH amounts next time. I'll know more once it's been carb'ed up and chilled in ~2 weeks.

If you do try it, let me know what you think!

Kal

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Roadie




Joined: 13 Oct 2013
Posts: 127
Location: Charleston, SC


PostLink    Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2014 5:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
I tried a variation on this recipe last time I brewed it (~2 weeks ago): Add the 20 minute hops as first wort hops (FWH) instead.

First Wort Hopping (FWH) is a process where hops are added to the boil kettle as the wort is being sparged from the mash/lauter tun. Why is this done? To quote How to Brew:

Quote:
As the boil tun fills with wort (which may take a half hour or longer), the hops steep in the hot wort and release their volatile oils and resins. The aromatic oils are normally insoluble and tend to evaporate to a large degree during the boil. By letting the hops steep in the wort prior to the boil, the oils have more time to oxidize to more soluble compounds and a greater percentage are retained during the boil.


The main reason (not mentioned above) as to why it's done however is that it brings a very smooth bitterness to the beer.

I just kegged this batch minutes ago. At first sampling (room temp, not carb'ed yet), bitterness level's about the same or maybe slightly lower (they say FWH is about as bitter as a 20 min addition for calculation purposes) but it does seem smoother. There are a few other recipes I've published that do use FWH but I've never done a comparison to really notice the difference. Maybe it's just my mind playing tricks on me but I seem to prefer it this way, but I may double up the FWH amounts next time. I'll know more once it's been carb'ed up and chilled in ~2 weeks.

If you do try it, let me know what you think!

Kal


So what's the verdict? Significant/better enough to change the recipe directions?

I brewed the original recipe as the first batch through our new system 9 days ago but forgot to add the whirlfloc, then to compound things hooked the chiller up only to find out that our (chiller dedicated) water line was frozen - it was -3F out with a wind taking it to -15F - so I was unable to chill = no cold break. Not exactly what I was hoping for but it will still be (hazy?) beer. After fermentation I'm going to use gelatin to clear as much of the beer as I can then rack to a keg, allow to warm back up to the 60's and dry hop.
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2014 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's a hard question. The beer's now more or less carb'ed up right and on tap. The problem is that I don't have the other still around or done at the same time to really do a direct comparison.

Is it good? Yes. Is any different? Slightly. I think so. Is it better? Arg. Now you got me. I'm not sure. Requires more sampling!

Kal

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skelley




Joined: 24 Feb 2012
Posts: 210
Location: brookfield, wisconsin


PostLink    Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2014 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought first wort hop was equivalent to the 60 minute addition (at least by beer tools pro calculations). Is the thought behind the 20 min equivalent that the volatilized hops at the lower temperatures prior to boil can not be isomerized?
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Tue Mar 11, 2014 9:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Skelley: See 3 posts above yours for an explanation of how FWH works. Most brewers will say to treat them as a 20 min addition when it comes to bitterness. I tend to agree. I think Beer Tools Pro gets it wrong. My 2 cents.

Kal

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aCros




Joined: 01 Apr 2014
Posts: 5
Location: Ottawa


PostLink    Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2014 4:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Made this beer twice now, turned out awesome both times, can't seem to keep it on tap!!
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Slangin Deuces




Joined: 26 Oct 2013
Posts: 3



PostLink    Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 12:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will be attempting this recipe for my first batch on my Electric Brewery Clone (exact clone). I have gone through the brew day step by step and am pretty comfortable with my process. I am gonna do a full "rehearsal" the day prior just to make sure. I just have a few questions on water profile and efficiency.

I recently moved and will be building up from distilled water. I have never done that before. What amounts of which brewing salts do I need to add to the mash/boil? And how can I determine this on my own? I have John Palmers Water book, but have not had the time to go through it....that will come, but for this weekend, I just need a quick answer!

My setup is pretty much an exact copy of Kal's, but I am still worried I will not be able to achieve the same efficiency. Do I need to alter the recipe at all to account for maybe not hitting that high of an efficiency because of not being familiar with my setup? Thanks for the help, this system has been almost a year in the making so I don't want to screw up my first batch.
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 12:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Slangin Deuces wrote:
I recently moved and will be building up from distilled water. I have never done that before. What amounts of which brewing salts do I need to add to the mash/boil? And how can I determine this on my own? I have John Palmers Water book, but have not had the time to go through it....that will come, but for this weekend, I just need a quick answer!

Use EzWaterCalculator.com to hit the targets I recommend. It'll tell you how much to add to mash, how much to boil. With distilled or RO water you assume all 0's across the board for the starting water.

Quote:
My setup is pretty much an exact copy of Kal's, but I am still worried I will not be able to achieve the same efficiency. Do I need to alter the recipe at all to account for maybe not hitting that high of an efficiency because of not being familiar with my setup? Thanks for the help, this system has been almost a year in the making so I don't want to screw up my first batch.

I'd recommend starting at around 85%. Your software will scale the grain amounts accordingly.

Good luck!

Kal

_________________
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Roadie




Joined: 13 Oct 2013
Posts: 127
Location: Charleston, SC


PostLink    Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 1:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I also use EZwatercalculator and would recommend it.

If I were you for the first batch I'd use 75% efficiency and then change as necessary on the next batch.
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OkieDokie




Joined: 31 Aug 2013
Posts: 191
Location: Oklahoma

Drinking: Electric ale, Weizen

Working on: Electric lager, American Amber Ale, Dirty Blonde


PostLink    Posted: Sun May 25, 2014 8:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just finished clean up of this brew. Brew day went perfect! Looking forward to this. Also just kegged the Kolsch. It tasted fantastic even without carb.
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Besk one




Joined: 01 Oct 2014
Posts: 23



PostLink    Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2014 5:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since I'm still not moved yet and the wifey won't let me have any brew stuff until we do, I'm gonna make a 5 gallon batch of this at a friends house on his small 5 gal propane rig this weekend.

As I have to go pick up the ingredients Saturday from the LHBS and to make things easier I scaled the recipe for 75% efficiency and modified the grain bill just a bit to round off the amounts of each grain. It's changing the percentages just a bit but not too much.

It's gonna be:

5 Gallon batch

9.5 lb 2 row (79.2%)

2 lbs Vienna (16.7%)

.5 lb Crystal 40 (4.2%)

Same hops but scaled by 1/2, although the Citra I got has a bit more AA than is listed for Kals recipe.

I'll post back once they're bottle conditioned and let you know how the non-electric kitchen styles pale ale turns out.

Mug
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Besk one




Joined: 01 Oct 2014
Posts: 23



PostLink    Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2014 8:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As a related question, how much of a effect do you imagine my modifications to the grain bill will make?
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 11116
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter


PostLink    Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2014 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Besk one wrote:
As a related question, how much of a effect do you imagine my modifications to the grain bill will make?

You probably won't notice any difference.

Kal

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Besk one




Joined: 01 Oct 2014
Posts: 23



PostLink    Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2014 10:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

We'll see how this turned out. Managed to hit 1.060 OG, and considering it was my first run on someone else equipment I'm gonna say close enough!

We did manage to break his hydrometer right in the fermenting bucket, that was awesome. Luckily it's one of the steel shot ones and we got it out pretty quickly, it's fermenting like crazy and already smells great. Gonna check it this weekend and start the dry hop and hope to cold crash and clear late next week so we can get it bottled up next weekend.
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jim@gsp




Joined: 09 Dec 2014
Posts: 8
Location: Gig Harbor, WA


PostLink    Posted: Tue Dec 09, 2014 3:12 am    Post subject: Primary and secondary Reply with quote

Hello,

New to this forum.

Can someone please inform me as to what exactly the recipe is calling for regarding primary and secondary fermentation schedules?

Primary is 7 to 10 days at 68F. Secondary is how long at what temperature?

Thanks!

Jim
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Besk one




Joined: 01 Oct 2014
Posts: 23



PostLink    Posted: Tue Dec 09, 2014 3:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There isn't really a secondary fermentation, just let it sit in primary until it's finished (gravity is stable for around a week). Then rack to a secondary (brite tank), cold crash, clear with gelatin and package!

I just bottled a batch on Saturday. since I'm still in apartment land we did it kitchen burner style and just let it ferment for a week and a half at room temp, off to the bite tank for a 4 day dry hop and then cleared for 4 days and then bottled.

It smells and tastes fantastic! I'm sad I have to wait 3 weeks for them to bottle condition and carbonate to taste the final product, but it'll be ready just in time for my birthday on new years day!
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jim@gsp




Joined: 09 Dec 2014
Posts: 8
Location: Gig Harbor, WA


PostLink    Posted: Tue Dec 09, 2014 3:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey, thanks for the quick reply!

I though it was going right to the bright tank, but there is a number of variations of this recipe on-line and some have a full secondary fermentation with a slightly different temperature.

Appreciate the response.
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