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Mike Ellenbecker
Joined: 04 Sep 2013 Posts: 16 Location: Racine, WI
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Link Posted: Tue Oct 01, 2013 12:39 pm Post subject: I have several questions on the hop stopper |
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I am currently using a 300 micron stainless steel brewing filter that I order from http://www.utahbiodieselsupply.com/brewingfilters.php. The filter I ordered from Utah biodiesel is constructed extremely well, durable and has worked very well for me. That being said I think that your hop filter may do and even better job as it will capture the hot break and it doesn’t confine the hops to a small area in the boil kettle.
1. What micron size is the mesh used on the hop stopper?
2. How are the mesh pieces put together?
3. Do you know if some of the hop oils that are in solution would be reabsorb by the hops surrounding the hop stopper?
Thanks in Advance
Mike Ellenbecker
_________________ Mike Ellenbecker
IronWolf Brewing
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kal Forum Administrator
Joined: 12 Dec 2010 Posts: 11116 Location: Ottawa, Canada
Drinking: Pub Ale, Electric Creamsicle, Mild, Pliny the Younger, Belgian Dark Strong, Weizen, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter
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Link Posted: Tue Oct 01, 2013 1:39 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Mike,
Mike Ellenbecker wrote: | 1. What micron size is the mesh used on the hop stopper?
2. How are the mesh pieces put together? |
The Hop Stopper manufacturer went to a great deal of effort (and expense) to design the Hop Stopper which included selecting the mesh size that offered the best performance of flow and filtering. Over a dozen or more variations were tried over an extended period of time to find the mesh, geometry, size, and other factors that worked best. I hope you understand that they really need to treat this information as proprietary.
Because of all the work and testing that went into the Hop Stopper, it's the one device I chose not to build myself for my brewery. I purchased it pre-built directly from the manufacturer. They had done so much testing and design work that I figured there was no way I'd be able to replicate the performance myself on the first try. I've been very happy with it so I decided to feature it for them on my website.
They do include an extremely generous return policy which basically states that if you don't like the Hop Stopper for any reason within the first year of use, they will refund you 100% including original shipping costs and even the return shipping as well (in most cases).
If you are still interested in purchasing one you may do so here and help support TheElectricBrewery.com at the same time:
http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/hop-stopper
Thanks for understanding.
Mike Ellenbecker wrote: | 3. Do you know if some of the hop oils that are in solution would be reabsorb by the hops surrounding the hop stopper? |
No more than if some other solution was used. I don't understand what this has to do with the Hop Stopper directly. Maybe I don't understand the question (?).
Kal
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skelley
Joined: 24 Feb 2012 Posts: 210 Location: brookfield, wisconsin
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Link Posted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 3:26 pm Post subject: |
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What evidence do we have that the hop stopper catches the hot break or that it is even an important task? I have been using 2 SS hop spiders that work great and the beers have been every bit as good as with the hop stopper but much easier to use and with absolute no waste in wort with the exception of the hop absorption. If you have something that works well I would not go away from it. No disrespect to the hop stopper people (who by the way do have great customer service), but many have had trouble with the device including myself and I tried all of the tricks you can see posted all over this site.
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NSGoeden
Joined: 18 Nov 2013 Posts: 5 Location: Los Angeles, CA
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Link Posted: Sun Nov 24, 2013 8:27 pm Post subject: |
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Just a tip (i posted in the 'using your brewery' section a few days ago) for those having trouble with the hop stopper: I put a nylon hop bag over it, then after most of the cooling is completed (after is is exposed to air a bit), I inverted and pulled off the bag. Most of the hop bill came with it, and the last 3-4 gallons or so went very smoothly. I left about 0.5 gallons of trub behind in a 30 gallon kettle, and the last 3-4 gallons went quickly - no longer than the first 8 gallons.
cheers
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OkieDokie
Joined: 31 Aug 2013 Posts: 191 Location: Oklahoma
Drinking: Electric ale, Weizen
Working on: Electric lager, American Amber Ale, Dirty Blonde
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Link Posted: Sun Nov 24, 2013 8:32 pm Post subject: |
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That's a good tip. Mine was stuck with about 2 gallons to go so I just picked up the kettle and poured it into a pitcher then into carboy through filter
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NSGoeden
Joined: 18 Nov 2013 Posts: 5 Location: Los Angeles, CA
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Link Posted: Sun Nov 24, 2013 8:35 pm Post subject: |
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Yeah that's pretty much what I had to do on my first brew day; much smoother after the nylon bag! Sadly my power went out during that brew, and then came back on before I could unplug the control panel. Fried the HLT SSR in to the open state, so when I came back 30 minutes later, my mash was at 190. So that 8% pale ale is gonna be a 4%. Should be interesting
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