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godscorn
Joined: 17 Sep 2012 Posts: 33 Location: Stow OH USA
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Link Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 10:05 pm Post subject: Wiring diagram assistance |
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Hello all,
I'm currently coming up to the wiring phase of my electric e-herms build. My setup is very similar to Kal's design with the following exceptions:
- 3 Keggles (15.5 gal or 1/2 barrel each) instead of Blichman kettles
- Two SS Chugger pumps instead of March pumps
- No volt or amp meter or 50a shunt
- Emergency stop button
- 220v power indicator LED instead of 110v power indicator LED
- DIN-based panel
- 25 amp DP and 15 amp SP breakers instead of fuses
- Auber ASL-51 timer instead of Omega timer
Here is an album of the keggle and panel build so far
http://imgur.com/a/nxpua
My front panel:
Panel component design:
Where I'm looking for guidance are with the adjustments from Kal's wiring design to accomodate:
- the 220v power LED,
- adding an emergency stop button compatible with safe-start interlock
- 25A & 15A breakers
- Auber timer
As far as internal electrical components, I'm using parts included in this ebrewsupply.com kit - http://www.ebrewsupply.com/ebrew-kits/ebrew-pid-kits/bcs-2-element-2-pumps-30a-kit.html
I've picked up extra NC contacts for the element select and pump switches in order to integrate a safe start interlock.
I'll be using 220v 30amp service from the main panel, and utilizing a 50amp gfci breaker spa panel with a 4 prong dryer outlet attached.
Any assistance and/or critiques are welcome. Thanks to Kal for the immense information he provides on this project!
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godscorn
Joined: 17 Sep 2012 Posts: 33 Location: Stow OH USA
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Link Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 10:07 pm Post subject: |
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Wasn't sure if this post belonged here or in the Building Your Brewery section.
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Kevin59
Joined: 03 Aug 2012 Posts: 1047 Location: Fort Collins, CO
Drinking: Imperial Brown Ale
Working on: Oatmeal Stout, IPA
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Link Posted: Tue Mar 05, 2013 3:16 am Post subject: |
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Nice looking panel, I like your layout.
As far as the emergency stop, I bought a switch but haven't installed it yet. I was thinking of placing it in line between the power in plug and the power key switch as shown in the attached image. That would allow it to shut down the panel with no change to the safe start interlock function.
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Kevin59
Joined: 03 Aug 2012 Posts: 1047 Location: Fort Collins, CO
Drinking: Imperial Brown Ale
Working on: Oatmeal Stout, IPA
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Kevin59
Joined: 03 Aug 2012 Posts: 1047 Location: Fort Collins, CO
Drinking: Imperial Brown Ale
Working on: Oatmeal Stout, IPA
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Link Posted: Tue Mar 05, 2013 3:27 am Post subject: |
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And for the 220V power lamp... (Note that using that lamp requires a separate hot lead going out to your door. It might be a good idea to use a fuse in that line near the takeoff from the relay. Life would be simpler with a 120V lamp since neutral is already out there on the door.)
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godscorn
Joined: 17 Sep 2012 Posts: 33 Location: Stow OH USA
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Link Posted: Tue Mar 05, 2013 5:06 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for the info, this is very helpful. Any idea where in the sequence I would install the 25 amp and 15 amp breakers?
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Kevin59
Joined: 03 Aug 2012 Posts: 1047 Location: Fort Collins, CO
Drinking: Imperial Brown Ale
Working on: Oatmeal Stout, IPA
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Link Posted: Tue Mar 05, 2013 5:28 am Post subject: |
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godscorn wrote: | Thanks for the info, this is very helpful. Any idea where in the sequence I would install the 25 amp and 15 amp breakers? |
Not sure why you'd use the 25A 2-pole breaker they supplied. I only say that because you have a 30A breaker for your setup. But if you want to use it you probably want to insert into the 2 hot lines that feed the SSRs and element relays as in the attached diagram.
The 15A breaker seems a bit high (2x at least for your pumps and PIDs), but it would take the place of the fuse I guess.
NOTE: I just noticed they have a link for their wiring schematic - pretty much what I just said...
http://www.ebrewsupply.com/designs/30a-PID-2-2-2PID-Electric.pdf
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godscorn
Joined: 17 Sep 2012 Posts: 33 Location: Stow OH USA
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Link Posted: Tue Mar 05, 2013 1:45 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks again Mrjofus1959. This helps immensely.
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sigsegv
Joined: 11 Dec 2012 Posts: 38 Location: San Francisco, CA
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Link Posted: Tue Mar 05, 2013 7:27 pm Post subject: |
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My panel specs look pretty similar to what you're doing. I put the e-stop inline with the key switch circuit. The interlock relay didn't need to be changed at all (even with the DIN cube & socket octal relay). I ended up with a 220v main power light too and just pulled another hot line off the main power relay. I wired in the breakers coming off the main power relay. Here's a shot of what my panel internal looks like: http://www.flickr.com/photos/quantumfish/8401548810/in/set-72157632366743343/
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godscorn
Joined: 17 Sep 2012 Posts: 33 Location: Stow OH USA
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Link Posted: Tue Mar 05, 2013 8:04 pm Post subject: |
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sigsegv wrote: | My panel specs look pretty similar to what you're doing. I put the e-stop inline with the key switch circuit. The interlock relay didn't need to be changed at all (even with the DIN cube & socket octal relay). I ended up with a 220v main power light too and just pulled another hot line off the main power relay. I wired in the breakers coming off the main power relay. Here's a shot of what my panel internal looks like: http://www.flickr.com/photos/quantumfish/8401548810/in/set-72157632366743343/ |
I was looking at your photosets the past week or so since you have a DIN panel build, but I couldn't follow all of your wiring. Nice work on your panel and build.
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matt6150
Joined: 07 Jan 2013 Posts: 31
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Link Posted: Wed Mar 06, 2013 1:09 am Post subject: |
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godscorn wrote: | Wasn't sure if this post belonged here or in the Building Your Brewery section. |
Yeah no kidding this place has way to many categories and sub-forums.
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