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Syl-2362 alarm wiring help me please

 
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juic



Joined: 31 Jan 2013
Posts: 48



PostLink    Posted: Sun Mar 03, 2013 4:17 pm    Post subject: Syl-2362 alarm wiring help me please Reply with quote


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I bought 3 syl-2362 and I'm trying to figure out how to wire them like kals set up. Everything is easy except I can't figure out how to wire the alarms??? Has anyone used these that can help me Mug
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sigsegv



Joined: 11 Dec 2012
Posts: 38
Location: San Francisco, CA


PostLink    Posted: Sun Mar 03, 2013 6:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have the 2362's and here's what I did. The easiest way to wire the alarm would be to use terminals 4&5 for J1's NO relay. This is the relay for AL1 which closes when the alarm comes on. You would wire hot to 4 and then wire 5 to your alarm switch. The other side of alarm switch goes to the alarm and the other side of the alarm goes to neutral. This is essentially what I did on mine.

The additional thing I did was to put jumpers between 5&13 and 4&14. Doing this ties J2's NO relay (aka AL2) into the same switched alarm indicator. I've yet to come up with a use case for the second alarm, but it's wired in case I ever do need it.
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juic



Joined: 31 Jan 2013
Posts: 48



PostLink    Posted: Sun Mar 03, 2013 6:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you wire 3 of them in parallel like kals did.
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sigsegv



Joined: 11 Dec 2012
Posts: 38
Location: San Francisco, CA


PostLink    Posted: Sun Mar 03, 2013 6:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, all three are tied into the same alarm indicator(s) the same way as in Kal's original design by jumpering together all of the alarm switch outputs.
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juic



Joined: 31 Jan 2013
Posts: 48



PostLink    Posted: Sun Mar 03, 2013 7:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome when I get home ill take a look at it. Thanks for helping me with that. If I have any questions ill hit you up. Mug
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juic



Joined: 31 Jan 2013
Posts: 48



PostLink    Posted: Sun Mar 03, 2013 10:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So when you say power to terminal 2 do you mean run the black wires from each switch to each pid. So switch to terminal 4. Then go from pid to pid connecting terminal 5 together then from the last pid to the alarm. You have any pics or anything you can send me. Sometimes it's easier for me to see it than read it.
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sigsegv



Joined: 11 Dec 2012
Posts: 38
Location: San Francisco, CA


PostLink    Posted: Sun Mar 03, 2013 11:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's a picture of my door wiring: http://www.flickr.com/photos/quantumfish/8400476845/in/set-72157632366743343/lightbox/

The alarm buzzer/light is a combined unit. It's the round one above the timer on the left end. For each PID and alarm switch there's a black wire running from terminal 5 to the alarm switch. Then on the other side of the alarm switch, the black wire runs to the next alarm switch and then at the end of the alarm switches it finally goes to the alarm buzzer/light itself. On each PID I also jumper from terminal 1 to terminal 4. Terminal 1 is the black wire that supplies power to the PID.
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juic



Joined: 31 Jan 2013
Posts: 48



PostLink    Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 1:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok I sent a pic then read your post. So switches to terminal 5 that makes sense. Then you say jumper from terminal 1 to terminal 4 I don't see any jumpers in your pic??? There may be but I'm trying to look on my phone and I just can't see very well on a small screen. So on my pic I sent you I drew in lines from the switches to terminal 5 on he pid. Help me with the rest what am I missing?? Thanks
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sigsegv



Joined: 11 Dec 2012
Posts: 38
Location: San Francisco, CA


PostLink    Posted: Mon Mar 04, 2013 2:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not sure where the picture went, but I haven't seen it.

You're right on the 1-to-4 jumper in the picture. It doesn't exist. That's just what I had in my original notes. When I actually went to do the wiring, I pulled a wire back from the hot bus and connected it to terminal 14 of the BK PID on the far right and then there's a jumper from 14 to 4. It works the same whether you just jump the power off the terminal that's powering a PID, run all the way back to the hot bus, or pull it from some other connection point that makes sense.
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erkess66



Joined: 11 Jul 2019
Posts: 3



PostLink    Posted: Thu Jul 11, 2019 4:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

need help
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10205
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jul 11, 2019 5:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

erkess66 wrote:
need help

This is a thread from 6 years ago. What do you need help with exactly?

Kal

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erkess66



Joined: 11 Jul 2019
Posts: 3



PostLink    Posted: Thu Jul 11, 2019 5:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

check your pm
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10205
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jul 11, 2019 5:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

erkess66 wrote:
check your pm

There is nothing new in my private messages.

Kal

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Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
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erkess66



Joined: 11 Jul 2019
Posts: 3



PostLink    Posted: Thu Jul 11, 2019 6:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Please check your pm now. Thanks
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 12 Dec 2010
Posts: 10205
Location: Ottawa, Canada

Drinking: German Lager, Electric Hop Candy Jr, Scottish 70/-, Cali Common, Maibock, Helles, Russian Imperial Stout, Black Butte Porter

Working on: Weizen


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jul 11, 2019 8:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I might as well post my answer here too as there's no reason to ask the question in a PM and it may help someone else in the future:

erkess66 wanted to know if there's a way to turn an alarm off directly within the PID itself instead of through an external switch.

My response:

Quote:
Hi!

I don't use a SYL-2362 units. I use SYL-2352. If there's any similarity, the only way to shut it off is to reprogram the alarm setting to a condition that doesn't cause the alarm to be on anymore. This is a royal pain as it's slow to do (there are lots of PID settings), and there's a chance you may screw up something else in the PID settings every time you go and change this one setting. This is why I chose to use separate alarm switches so that I don't have go and reprogram the PID every time I want to turn the alarm on or off.

For complete details see the "HOW IT WORKS" section of my alarm instructions here:

http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-part-2?page=12

All the control panels (both pre-built and kits) that we sell on our website here all use separate alarming on purpose for this reason. Brew days are busy, and brewers should just have to flick a switch and leave the PID settings alone.

For example, I have my boil PID "hi" alarm set to 208F so that I know when I'm just about to come to boil so that I avoid boil-overs. To turn it on I simply flick the boil PID alarm switch to "on" as I have that value set in the PID settings already. When the alarm goes off I simply turn the alarm switch off. Without that switch I'd have to go in and reprogram the PID to a different value like 250F (as it'll never reach that). Not only is that annoying to do as I'm busy as I'm just about to come to boil, but I have to then change it back to 208F next time I want to use it. Double annoying. My control panel designs never require you to change any PID settings once the panel is set up.

Kal

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Purchasing through our affiliate links helps support our site at no extra cost to you. We thank you!
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